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Have I fried my ECM?

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  #1  
Old 10-28-2016, 11:11 PM
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Default Have I fried my ECM?

I'll try to keep it short. Bike rode perfect last time, about 3 weeks ago. Go out this morning turn bike on. Fuel pump didn't prime straight away, maybe a 10 second delay then when it came on it would cut in and out in short bursts. First thought was loose connection somewhere so I popped the seat checked a few things all looked ok. Turned the bike back on and saw a spark near the positive battery terminal. Bolt holding cable onto terminal had rubbed through a wire pretty badly. I cut the damaged part of wire out and soldered in a new piece with heatshrink etc etc. that parts fine. Battery back in, same delay for fuel pump to start but now it doesn't stop, would prime forever if I let it. The system relay clicking sounded a bit funny so I put in a new one with no effect. 2 codes, U1016 loss of serial data and P1502 jiffy stand switch high. Checked the codes early in the piece and now I get No Rsp in 'P' section which I believe is directly related to the ECM.
Thanks for reading, I appreciate any and all advice!!!

'06 NT, 95", S&S .510g, V&H BR 2-2, K&N AC, P&P Heads, SEPST.
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:26 AM
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In addition, when the fuel pump was doing its endless prime I noticed it was blowing bubbles in the tank. Not a little bit, but a lot, like a hose has come off. I changed the fuel filter and 1 hose about 10k kms ago. I think its come off the internal side of the quick fitting. Ive dumped the fuel but can't work out how to remove that fitting. I bought a manual, but its a haynes and its next to useless.
So in summary, I think the shorted wired somehow made fuel pump malfunction building up too much pressure and blew the hose off. Now with the wire repaired the fuel pump runs continually. Am I on the right track??
Also still getting no response from the ECM when trying to pull codes, which leads me to think the ECM's stuffed!?!
Thanks, Matt

'06 NT, 95", S&S .510g, V&H BR 2-2, K&N AC, P&P Heads, SEPST.
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:06 AM
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Have you tried to reflash your tune? That would give an indication if the ecm is responding.
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:32 AM
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No I haven't tried that yet. At the moment the whole fuel pump assembly is out. I think I'll try to figure out the endless priming first, but will definitely give that a try once it's all back together. Thanks for the reply!

'06 NT, 95", S&S .510g, V&H BR 2-2, K&N AC, P&P Heads, SEPST.
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:30 AM
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When the proper hoses and clamps are used for repair inside the tank there is virtually no way a hose can blow off.
AFAIK, there is no way to short a fuel pump so it works continually.
Fix the huge pressure loss issue inside the tank first. Then see if it starts.
Bob
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:37 AM
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Oz, you are describing a cracked hose inside the tank. pull it out, replace hose & filter while in there
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by FLTRI17
When the proper hoses and clamps are used for repair inside the tank there is virtually no way a hose can blow off. AFAIK, there is no way to short a fuel pump so it works continually. Fix the huge pressure loss issue inside the tank first. Then see if it starts. Bob
Yep, found that out the hard way! Everything was still in tact, I even had the check valve out of the tank and gave it a visual inspection and pressurized it with a big plastic syringe full of fuel (not 60 psi I know) but it should've shown up any cracks or splits. One thing I found strange is just below where that fuel line connects to the regulator housing there is another stem that looks like it should have something on it, but it doesn't, any ideas?
Thanks again for your time, Matt

'06 NT, 95", S&S .510g, V&H BR 2-2, K&N AC, P&P Heads, SEPST.
 
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Old 10-29-2016, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
Oz, you are describing a cracked hose inside the tank. pull it out, replace hose & filter while in there
I actually haven't checked the line on the filter side because it's not that old, I was really hoping they would last longer than that!! But I guess you're right, I should just do it while I'm in there an then I know for sure.
Thanks, Matt.

'06 NT, 95", S&S .510g, V&H BR 2-2, K&N AC, P&P Heads, SEPST.
 
  #9  
Old 11-04-2016, 08:17 AM
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Ok so a new update! I got the parts I needed straight away, but haven't had a chance to put them in until tonight! I think I made a mistake putting the fuel filter and regulator back together last time I was in there, I just don't know why it took so long for a problem to occur. But anyway I now have a new check valve and hose and its no longer blowing bubbles in the tank. So that parts sorted and I have fuel pressure back. The bike cranks perfectly, but it only starts occasionally now and when it does decide to run it idles perfectly for around 30 seconds and then dies! After it conks out both the system and start relays start clicking madly! (both are new) Is it possible that the dead short to the battery took out two perfectly good relays? (all fuses are good) I can't get new relays till tomorrow morning, which leads me to the next problem. I hooked the bike up to the laptop, updated software and vci update as well, but it won't let me reflash the bike! I get the green tick saying the bike is connected, but the 'reprogram motorcycle' button is not available. I've pulled more codes and the 2 that concern me are loss of serial data ecm and loss of serial data instruments/tssm. There is a part of me that thinks the data has just been corrupted by the dead short, but I can't help but think I've fried 1 of these major components (ecm/tssm) Sorry to ramble on, just trying to give details. Any ideas are very much appreciated! My next solution involves a can of fuel and a match!!!
 

Last edited by Oz Nightrain; 11-04-2016 at 08:20 AM.
  #10  
Old 11-04-2016, 10:54 AM
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1) post 1 had code for jiffy stand, was that resolved?
2) check again the solder repair at the battery
3) you say you cannot flash to ecm, can you read codes, is there any?


The bike cranks perfectly, but it only starts occasionally now and when it does decide to run it idles perfectly for around 30 seconds and then dies! After it conks out both the system and start relays start clicking madly!

This comment suggests to me you still have a short, not necessarily continuous causing the clicking. since it started and ran for even 30 seconds suggests IMO that the ecm is ok.
 


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