TFI/DFO Setup & Installation (video)
#1
03-08-2006, 03:44 PM
TFI/DFO Setup & Installation (video)
Here's a link that will show you the installation on a Road King
http://www.techlusion.com/harleyinst.pdf
And a Softail
http://www.techlusion.us/bikepages/harley/softail/
A good source to buy one($160 for NON 02 sensor equipped bikes))... HERE
Some frequently asked questions... HERE
Technical support here... 1-877-764-3337
INSTALLATION NOTE:
The installation instructions tell you to remove the tank, this really is not necessary if you are clever. If you unbolt the tank front and back and leave the fuel lines connected, you can place a tennis ball or the like under the rear of the tank to lift it giving you sufficent room for the injector plugs to be removed and reinstalled. I used a long pair of needle nose pliers which you can release the spring clip that secures the injector plugs and lift them off with a screw driver, lifting them upward. They only go on in one position so don't try to force them back on. Pay close attention to the dash console when you lift the rear of the tank, on some models it may hit the bars. Also removal of the air filter assembly makes life easier.
The DFO/TFI (same thing) is a digital fuel optimizer used on fuel injected bikes to richen up the fuel mixture and is wired in after the ECM so it changes or lengthens the pulse width on the fuel injectors . They work very well and require very little fuss to set up. They only ADD fuel unlike the power commander where you can add or remove fuel or timing. The pots are small screws that are potentiometers that change the electrical value as mentioned above
Here's a link if you would like to check it out(video) http://www.dobeckperformance.com/dfo/
Both the DFO/TFI are made by techlusion , the TFI is sold by them and the DFO is distributed for sale by other companies like custom chrome etc.
DFO has 4 potentiometers, or "pots" labeled (L-R) Green, Yellow, Red, RPM. Start all of them at zero. Install DFO. Get bike warmed up to operating temperature (no, it won't hurt it to warm it up without the DFO in the system yet).
Holding the bike at steady high idle, say around 2000 rpm, slowly turn the first pot (Green) clockwise just until you hear the difference in idle sound and the idle smoothes out. Try it several times to get the best setting. What you are doing here is adding more fuel on top of your stock fuel curve during idle and cruising modes. If you get it too high your fuel mileage will crap on you and be in the low 30's, just bump the setting down a little - too low and you may end up with exhaust popping on decell, just bump it up a little. You need to find that happy medium for your particular bike. It isn't hard, but it may take a few tries.
Second pot (Yellow) - for starters just set it at the same setting you ended up for the first pot. Simple, eh? This is the accelerator function; you can fine-tune it by seat of the pants feel when you whack the throttle WFO in the lower gears. Just play around with it to see where you like it. If you get it too high, you will be adding a bunch of fuel every time your throttle opens a little, and your mileage will dump.
Set your RPM switch to 4000. Watch the little led light as you rev the bike up, it will light up at the RPM. This pot controls when the third pot (Red) is in operation. You do not want to be hitting the crossover rpm during normal driving, you can't carry enough gas.
The third pot (Red), consider it like the high-speed jet on your carb, only needs to work when at high rpm and wot. Set the Red pot to 3 or 4. You can fine-tune it when you have an opportunity to do some high speed wide open throttle running. Just adjust it up or down to suit how you want your bike to run.
It's really much easier to do than to tell someone how to do it. And it only takes a couple o
http://www.techlusion.com/harleyinst.pdf
And a Softail
http://www.techlusion.us/bikepages/harley/softail/
A good source to buy one($160 for NON 02 sensor equipped bikes))... HERE
Some frequently asked questions... HERE
Technical support here... 1-877-764-3337
INSTALLATION NOTE:
The installation instructions tell you to remove the tank, this really is not necessary if you are clever. If you unbolt the tank front and back and leave the fuel lines connected, you can place a tennis ball or the like under the rear of the tank to lift it giving you sufficent room for the injector plugs to be removed and reinstalled. I used a long pair of needle nose pliers which you can release the spring clip that secures the injector plugs and lift them off with a screw driver, lifting them upward. They only go on in one position so don't try to force them back on. Pay close attention to the dash console when you lift the rear of the tank, on some models it may hit the bars. Also removal of the air filter assembly makes life easier.
The DFO/TFI (same thing) is a digital fuel optimizer used on fuel injected bikes to richen up the fuel mixture and is wired in after the ECM so it changes or lengthens the pulse width on the fuel injectors . They work very well and require very little fuss to set up. They only ADD fuel unlike the power commander where you can add or remove fuel or timing. The pots are small screws that are potentiometers that change the electrical value as mentioned above
Here's a link if you would like to check it out(video) http://www.dobeckperformance.com/dfo/
Both the DFO/TFI are made by techlusion , the TFI is sold by them and the DFO is distributed for sale by other companies like custom chrome etc.
DFO has 4 potentiometers, or "pots" labeled (L-R) Green, Yellow, Red, RPM. Start all of them at zero. Install DFO. Get bike warmed up to operating temperature (no, it won't hurt it to warm it up without the DFO in the system yet).
Holding the bike at steady high idle, say around 2000 rpm, slowly turn the first pot (Green) clockwise just until you hear the difference in idle sound and the idle smoothes out. Try it several times to get the best setting. What you are doing here is adding more fuel on top of your stock fuel curve during idle and cruising modes. If you get it too high your fuel mileage will crap on you and be in the low 30's, just bump the setting down a little - too low and you may end up with exhaust popping on decell, just bump it up a little. You need to find that happy medium for your particular bike. It isn't hard, but it may take a few tries.
Second pot (Yellow) - for starters just set it at the same setting you ended up for the first pot. Simple, eh? This is the accelerator function; you can fine-tune it by seat of the pants feel when you whack the throttle WFO in the lower gears. Just play around with it to see where you like it. If you get it too high, you will be adding a bunch of fuel every time your throttle opens a little, and your mileage will dump.
Set your RPM switch to 4000. Watch the little led light as you rev the bike up, it will light up at the RPM. This pot controls when the third pot (Red) is in operation. You do not want to be hitting the crossover rpm during normal driving, you can't carry enough gas.
The third pot (Red), consider it like the high-speed jet on your carb, only needs to work when at high rpm and wot. Set the Red pot to 3 or 4. You can fine-tune it when you have an opportunity to do some high speed wide open throttle running. Just adjust it up or down to suit how you want your bike to run.
It's really much easier to do than to tell someone how to do it. And it only takes a couple o
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