Yes. Disconnect the battery first. The plastic shell that actually holds the ignition switch is attached to the front of the gas tank by the bolt that holds the gas tank to the frame. I removed the rear bolt that holds the gas tank on as well as the front bolt that holds the gas tank on and the fuel line to the fuel petcock and the vent line for the vapor canister so that I could completely remove the gas tank from the frame. You may not want to do this. I wanted to cut the original wires as close to the wiring harness as possible and that is the reason that I took off the gas tank. After removing the gas tank I could easily remove the original ignition switch from the plastic housing and then I cut off the original ignition wires very close to the wiring harness. I stripped the insulation from the ends of the original wires that were close to the original wiring harness and I stripped the insulation from the ends of the new ignition wires and I used wire connecters that crimp at both ends to connect the original wires to the new wires. You could also use electrical tape to connect the wires just as well. I then tested the connection by re-connecting the battery and then turning on the new ignition to see if everything was working. Everything checked out correctly so I again disconnected the battery and installed the new ignition into the plastic housing. I placed the gas tank back on the frame and inserted the rear bolt through the gas tank and through the frame to help hold it in place. I then inserted the front bolt through the gas tank and through the frame and through the plastic housing that holds the ignition switch in place. I re-connected the fuel line to the carb and the vent line from the canister to the gas tank. I tightened up both of the bolts and the hose clamp and I re-connected the battery for the last time. I turned on the new ignition and test started the bike and it fired up just as good as new. I hope that this information helps you out some. Good luck and ride safe out there.