been that way since day 1

all flash based tuners are this way

 

First, thanks again to contributors here. Without this thread I probably would've succumbed to dealer dependency.
I wanted to share the first step of my beginner's experience - not that the thread needs another of these .
First, I would not recommend anyone do what I did and if you do I'm not responsible .
I found a 32109-08B from local seller for ~1/2 price of new version C. It was sealed and local so I decided to give it a shot. Downloaded software and ordered the 6-pin cable for 2014 low rider connection. While waiting for the cable I read here and played with software a bit. Cables finally came in and I connected everything up ... and ... it worked !! I downloaded the stage 1 map (I have SE AC and a 'doctored stock' muffler) , it flashed fine, started ok and when I took off it felt totally flat up to ~2000 RPM. I didn't really push it but I was wondering if this was such a good idea after all. After it warmed up the flat went away. It now runs at least as good ... probably pulls a little better ... is definitely a little cooler when sitting ... all in all I'm happy so far. Before re-flash when trying to hold steady speed at 1500 - 2500 RPM it was 'surging' or seemed like it was trying to find a proper mix or whatever and after the new flash that seems to be gone.

I'd like to do some logging before embarking on smart tune but not sure how that would inform anything ??? or, if weather holds I might just go ahead and try some smart tune runs. At any rate I want to look at tables a bit to understand them a bit more. I was surprised at timing tables. They were way more 'aggressive' than I expected which is ok given I'm at altitude.

If you've read this far I'll go ahead and ask a question. Several have mentioned adding 4-5 degrees timing, saving and then using that altered tune for smart tune sessions to counter the 4-5 degrees pulled when smart tune is 'engaged'. Is that still the case in the newest software? Reason for asking is, if I recall correctly, those posts were a ways back -- something like version 4-5 of software and just wanting to verify that is still the case.

Anyway, thanks again for all the information, suggestions, etc.

Mark me - A happy HD tuner user.

 

So you saying buy the VCI made for the current year model or older as opposed to one that is older than the current year bike you have? I agree. why use hardware that may not have a design feature your newer bike now has in the ECM. I repeat. changes in part # means there is something changed from the previous part.

When you or anyone else can explain why the software pulls the timing and why it should not pull the timing, then do something to override the design of the software, just because you know more than the designers of the software. Why not let it work the wat it was designed to work?

 

For first part I agree with what you're saying but am also saying at least for me a B version works on a 2014 low rider - that's all.

About the timing thing -- The rationalization was to set VEs with timing that would be in effect in final tune but I agree with your statement about second-guessing software developer ... so <until I design my own tuning software > will use what is provided. I'm coming from vette tuning and software there just flashes and logs. I know of nothing like auto/smart tune in auto world. That part of this process is very cool to me.

Thanks again for your many continued contributions!

 

I think the Smart Tune calibration pulls the timing because the AFRs are all set to 14.6. High timing and lean AFRs aren't really a good combination.

 

That makes sense for the open loop areas as those also change to 14.6. perhaps the software makers did not bother to create a routine to leave timing alone in areas that are already closed loop.

 

This is very cool!

Did first smart tune run today. In first ride populated most cells from ~1000-3600 up to ~40%TP. Ran out of record time before I hit highway so hope to add at least some higher regions next time out.

Found one thing a bit interesting - riding on smart tune map there was more popping than before - no big deal - just noticeable difference in that regard. Saved and flashed the result of this run and will do another couple until the magic < 5% change for populated cells. Then will do a very little playing with AFR per earlier posts in this thread and then call it good until I play with pipes or whatever else again later.

Once again very thankful for this thread! Very helpful.

 

The file size is over 12mg so it seems to exceed the allowable upload size. Let me know if you think I should post it somewhere and send you a link.

 

Oh that (they all do it) ticking / clicking sound. Mine only does it from 2000 to 3000 rpm in 3,4,5 gear.
I wonder I'd I can "tune" this out..

 

I'm not sure I understand your point.

For Smart Tuning almost all the cells in the AFR table are set to the lean, closed loop value of 14.6. Timing is pulled to prevent the potentially damaging combination of high timing and a lean mixture during the Smart Tune Session.

When you apply the Smart Tune changes to the base table and upload the now modified base table, the timing reverts to the original values in the base table. Right?