dangerous, decel pop isnt as bad as you might think. and having the D&D pipe would give you less back pressure, not more. under the decel heading you could try lowering the number at 96 or 112 degrees C or richening up the 20kpa area in the afr table

 

Will give it a shot. Thanks

Really a 2into1 making less back pressure?
I have always been told the exact opposite.
Guy at D&D here in Fort Worth told me that higher back pressure is what helps them produce more torque than short shots or other 2into2 type exhaust.

 

When modifying your base calibration, I use my smart tune #'s and after doing the rear it asks if I want to link front & rear. What are they asking. Do I want to check the box or no. Thanks, Grant.

 

as you become familiar and know what result you want then yes you could check that so it changes front/rear the same amount you enter into front or rear. until you know to use this, you may change a correct rear or front in error.
in short, don't do both at same time

 

Thank You, That is what I thought.

 

Tried to do a search for this stuff, but I guess my search kung fu isn't that strong. Just had the 1000 mile service done on my 2014 Street Glide Special. Soon as I got it back I set about installing new pipes and intake. For some reason I just can't get it tuned. I've used smart tune on other bikes with good success, but this one is kicking my ***. The main problem is immediately after taking off from a full stop. Right around 1500 RPMs it will stumble and backfire. The more throttle the worse it is. Above 2000 RPMs it goes away. Nothing I do seems to help.

The particulars:

2014 Street Glide Special
Wimmer Better Sucker Intake
Bassani Power Curve True Dual Header Pipes
Bassani Deep 'n Throaty Slip Ons
SEPST & Harley Software

Initial Canned MAP - 614SEB204

AFR values had a lot of 14.4, took them down as low as 13.8 without much difference. 8 Smart Tune runs and no closer to being done. My Night Train was good in 3 runs. Most disappointing.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

I had the same exact issues after having my 2011 engine rebuilt complete. Same take off and same cough. I fiddled with the SESPT for several days and determined there was a vacuum leak somewhere. Got the engine running and sprayed some cleaner around the intakes and found that the small rubber plug/Cap had not been reinstalled on the Fuel Vent Canister line on the top of the throttle body. While I live in California my bike was purchased in Texas and does not have the canister and tubes. Installed the rubble plug and no more issues. I believe the issue you are having is running very lean and a vacuum leak will cause that. Good luck. Bob

 

Interesting possibility. I didn't remove the throttle body or anything, only the crappy stock plastic base for the air cleaner. There is a brace/bracket that has to be removed in order to install the billet Wimmer baseplate. I didn't put the screws back into the bracket holes on the top of the throttle body because I poked a piece of mig wire in them and decided they didn't go all the way through. Now I'm wondering..... I'll take a look when I get back to the shop in a bit. Thanks!

 

stock pipes make lots of backpressure cause they are restrictive open pipes = less pressure

 

It was the oddest thing. Didn't find any vacuum leaks anywhere, or anything else that might be causing the problem. So I decided to go back to the one that had it running the best, which was the sixth (after 5 smart tune runs) and before I started tweaking AFR values. I figured I would just load that one and run it for awhile and deal with it later. I flashed it in regular mode, without the smart tune block checked, but did reset the adaptive fuel. The bike just started up and ran like a champ. Like it was never even doing it in the first place. Scratching my head, but no time to worry - gotta ride.