No my set lambda doesn't even come close to correlating with that table. I attached my open loop table so you can see.

I just did a test at idle and once it was all warmed up and stabilized, with lambda set at 0.952 both O2 sensors were reading 0.86 volts. According to your table, they should be reading about 2.8 volts, of course that's assuming the VE tables are even close to accurate, which i'm quite confident that at idle they are. Maybe that table isn't accurate for these new small sensors. But I haven't been able to find any info on the internet for the voltage correlation for these sensors.

What concerns me is that if the sensors are bad, why would they both be inaccurate by about the same amount? I'm gonna be pissed if I spend $100 on new sensors and they read the same.

 

Yea, you may be on to something here now, That's quite a big difference in voltages between yours and mine, How and why ,Who knows, Hope the new sensors fix you up.
My computer has been offline since it got a virus, So just for the hell of it I'm trying to post a screenshot of my AFR table taken with my phone.



It worked

 

As promised here are my VE tables before and after my bike was put on a dyno and the map tweaked. The changes don't look like much, but the bike runs awesome!

Before front then rear




Now after front then rear....then front and rear delta

 

Wow, that is great info, TYVM fullautomike, looks like the PV can do a good tune,and as stailjim suspected the 95-100 MAP KPh columns are a bit out of reach for AT.Of course there's nothing better than a good Dyno tune by a qualified operator. But for those of us for whatever reasons don't we can have confidence in what we get out of the PV.

 

Forgot to post my AFR in my previous post. Here it is

 

Mike:
That's some great data. But what is your setup and where did you get the base tune before the dyno adjustments? The shape of your tables are quite different from mine, so I'm just wondering what intake and exhaust you have.

Smokey:
Your AFR table clearly has a lot of smoothing...much more so than what comes from FM or DJ. Also you have a really small closed loop area, which probably makes sense. I see that this is your hot weather table, so I'm guessing your cold weather one has more closed areas? Check out mine...it is all open loop though and it's what I'm currently running while I can't trust my O2 sensors. I have a closed loop one just like it except that all the 0.952 cells are 0.973

 

Yea I have too much time on my hands. I used the highs and lows from both FM and DJ tables. Then manually tweaked it .001 at a time, Once I got started couldn't stop till it flowed smoothly from one cell to the next (OCD lol). My regular table works 8 months of the year down here, The top of the bulge shifts a little lower and to the right.

 

Someone has been listening. Outstanding!

 

Red Dragons, I went with everything from Fuel Moto. FM high flow A/C, FM 2-1-2 head pipe, Jackpot 3.5" slash up's, Wood's TW-222 (F'n love them!) Woods directional lifters, and FM pushrods. I did all the work myself. The base map was from FM. Bike is running great!

 

Where is your lambda set at? Thats the magic number as compared to voltages. 1.00 = .450v. I like to test a sensor at stoich as thats where they were designed to operate. Try setting it at 1.00. Go for a ride and monitor the voltages at a steady state throttle at cruise. See what you get. Should see voltages going above and below as it swings rich lean rich lean. There are charts on the Internet showing lambda voltage conversions. You don't want to see voltage steady at 1v, thats way rich. Should start at 5.0 and come down. As it comes down through warm up enrichment and gets up to normal temps it should start switching above and below the CLB, or the corresponding voltage for you lambda setting, whichever applies.

You might want to do a couple AT runs with your lambda at 1.00 before. If it's as rich as you think the sensors will never read correctly, and the test probably won't yield good results.