My apologies if this has been asked many times. I did do a search...
Service manual, here, google AND youtube. I'm still confused. CDI box? WTF is that?

My bike died while riding in the rain. So far I've checked:
Battery, kill siwitch/handle bar electrical, carb low speed jet

What I found yesterday was that I'm getting a spark to the rear cylinder but not the front. I pulled the cables and ran continuity test which checked out ok. Ohm meter shows 2.4 if that matters. FYI, I have a crane H4 ignition module instead of points which is relatively new. Single - vs - dual fire? I have no clue what that really means. Mine has a selection for kick start or electric. I'm leaning towards thinking that is what it means for dual fire, but I'd only be guessing. Anyway.....

Where exactly am I putting my probes to the coil to test it? I've attached a picture of my coil. I'm getting a reading of 11.18 ohms between the two holes the spark plug cables go into. Is that right? I don't get a reading with any other connection cinfiguration.

Please educate me on how this thing fires each cylinder seperately.

Hmmmm 50+ readers and no replies. I'm begining to think I posted this in the wrong forum.
Thanks

 

A duel fire coil has two connectors on it (1 x for the firing of the coil and 1 x for the power feed to the unit) whereas a Single fire unit has 1 x for the power and then 2 x connections - one for each cylinder - these should go back to the Ign Module.

If its duel fire then just swap the spark plug lead around and see of the issue moves from the front to rear cylinder. If the problem moves then its your coil thats buggered. if the problem remains the same then its between the coil and the spark plug. NB this here is only valid for a Duel Fire System.

You measure a coil between the two small connectors - you should get between 2 - 5 ohms. You can measure between the spark plug hole and one of the smaller connectors and you should get a way higher reading. You should get the same reading from BOTH large spark holes to the small connector.

 

A better quality photo would have been more helpful,but that wiring don't look good!

 

I installed a new coil today, verified I was getting a spark front and back.

Still nothing. Again, it cranks over but not run. ****!!!

Indy suggested something about the push rods. I'm sure there's a reason but would that go from running great to not running at all?

 

If you have spark then you should be good to go. If it cranks but does not fire check all the connections first and then look at the timing module in the nosecone...(did you move it at all?) Sounds like the timeing may be out OR is it single fire or duel fire? If its single fire then you HAVE to have the wires from the Ign module around the right way.

I think the Indy is talking chit about the pushrods - only if you have not touched them that is.

 

I realize the picture I posted earlier was not the greatest but... Which side is Positive and negative? Not marked on old or new coil.
With the key switched on and the kill switch to "run"... there should be constant power to the coil, yes? The kill switch in the "off" position opens the circuit to the coil and motor stops running? If I ever get time, I'm going to check the continuity of the wires from the crane H4 up to the coil. That's the only thing left I can think of that may be ****ed up. I have not messed with or adjusted the ignition module or the push rods.

 

Your on the rigth track.

The wiring loom/cable coming from the direction of the handlebars (and by default the kill switch) will be the +12 Volts for the coil. Its switched on and off via your Key and the Run/Stop switch.

The other wire on the coil will go back to your ignition module (or is it two wires?)

Sometimes - as is the case for my ultima Ign, i also have a +12 volts connection from the coil down to the Ign Module so that is how the module gets its power (ie both the coil and Ign Module get power from the Kill Switch - its a very common setup)

Havea read of this PDF: www.ultimaproducts.com/53-643_53-644.pdf

It is not your ignition BUT the concept is the same and the drawings are bloody good.