Hey guys,
I could use your input on an issue I have with my 2004 Fat Boy.
I removed the instrument cluster to check on a wire that I strung underneath it to my XM radio from the battery. All went well and after replacing the cover, there was no power to the bike.
I knew that the issue was the ignition plug (three pronged plug) had come undone.
I plugged it back in and everything was all set.
I did notice that the middle connector within the plug was loose and was pulling away from the connector.
Today as I was riding, the bike stalled, and I immediately figured that the connector had dislodged again. I had placed a wrench on the bike just in case, so I removed the cluster and reconnected the middle wire and it started right up and I rode off.
When I got back home I opened up the cluster again to make sure that the connector was not going to come loose again.
Which is what I did.
Now, the issue:
When I plugged it back in, I tried to start the bike but it would just turn over, but not start.
I thought maybe I reversed the plug, and so I unplugged it, turned it over and tried to start it again.
Still just turned over but no start.
After a couple of tries, the battery (which has been showing signs of weakness lately) just clicked.
Ugh.
So, now after a couple of hours on the charger, the bike just turns over but no start, although the battery still seems weak after a couple of tries.
I checked the ignition fuse, which was fine.
I'll wait overnight to let the battery fully charge and try some more, but I wonder if I may have messed something up by reversing the plug to the ignition.

Any ideas what may be the issue?
I suppose I need to make sure that there is spark to the plugs tomorrow.
Or could it be just the battery?
It seems a little coincidental that the battery would fail at this point, but like I said, it has been showing signs of weakness and it is the original battery.
Any input is appreciated!


Day Two:
I have determined the correct wiring for the ignition plug to make sure that going forward, I at least have that back to where it needs to be.
I have checked all the fuses.
The battery is charged back up, and it still won't start.
I ran the diagnosis process on the bike, and it came back as:

P1004 - System Relay Contacts Closed EFI

So, I went to the dealer and got a new System Relay for $8.00.
I installed the relay, and the bike won't start, but now I can smell fuel.
I noticed now that the Low Fuel indicator (the fuel pump icon) is lit on the instrument cluster...even though the tank is full.
I read that the EFI system needs to be reset by following a sequence of turning on and off the ignition while the "Run" switch is on.
That didn't work...is there an effective way to reset the EFI system?
Starting to get really concerned now.

 

Replace both the ignition, ECM and the battery 15 amp fuses with good ones. However, first make sure you have the R going to B The R/BK going to I. The R/GR going to A.

 

Thanks for the response.
I double checked the connections and replaced all of those fuses, even though they did look ok, but still no go.

Not happy.

 

Today I tried using some starter fluid into the intake.
The bike roared to life...but only for a few seconds.
What does that say about the issue?
There MUST be some reset for the EFI system...at least I hope there is!

 

There is a 3 second timer in that relay you got that fires the fuel pump when you key on. Only after running does the crank position sensor come into affect and the ECM runs the fuel pump all the time while engine is running. Are you getting the 3 second fuel pump run at key on?

 

Check the plug on top of the tank and make sure none of the pins inside are bent.
Have seen on more than one occasion where one of the pins bends down or up and does not go into the female connector coming from the wiring harness and the fuel pump does not run and bike wont start and always after someone has been working in that area.

 

I am not hearing the slight buzzing sound when I turn the ignition on like it used to do.
I realize that is the sound of the EFI.
What does that indicate?

 

Brings up the fuel pump pressure up to about 60 psi for the injectors. That pressure is maintained by a manual relief valve in the tank, and once the motor is running the pump always runs with the relief valve bleeding off excess. It means either you fuel pump fuse is blown, you have wrong relay, or the connector at your tank (3 pin plug is wrong) The relay for this is the system relay. May not be keeping up with your first lengthy post. Note all this if powered by ignition switch and requires IGN fuse and ECM fuse working.

 

Good call Scotty.

I think I may have closed in on the problem.
On the top of the fuel pump, under the instrument cluster, I found that the three prong plug that attaches to the pump has only two prongs attached. One of them is detached and stuck in the plug (Female end) It looks as though it was burnt at the end, and it was easily pulled from the plug with needle nosed pliers.
So, now the question is, can I replace the fixed end of the fuel pump connector that is attached to the plate?
By looking at the manual, it is not part of the fuel pump itself, but I don't see a way to disconnect it.

 

The part is sold without the plate and you will need at least one new terminal and it does have an o-ring seal but I have never broke one so I have not pulled one apart and I am not sure how it comes out.