Hey out there,

I just put the new Crane Hi-4N ignition kit (module and coil) on my 85' FXRT. I timed it staticly TDCC on the front cylinder utilizing the built in light on the module. I have started at the static timing point and went to full retard then up to nearly 1/2" past static mark into advance. This testing was all done at 2300-2500rpm as stated in literature that came with the kit. I never seam to make it to the front cylinder advance mark which is the single dot on an 85'. The idle keeps picking up and freaks me out as I go further and further into advance. I can not imagine the dynamic timing would be too far off of the static.

I thought it might be the VOES so I removed it and bench tested it. It has with no continuity from the black wire to ground. I hook up a hose and my MiteyVac, give it a couple pumps and "beep" continuity. I put it back on the bike, while on the bike at less than 1000rpm its already a closed circuit (continuity). I don't think it should be closed at this low of RPM but, it should have no effect on my dynamic timing other than being able to achieve full advance at a lower RPM.

I have the Hi-4N set to Single Fire, Single Spark OEM curve, and the advance rate at 5 (out of 0-9 which is midrange like the instructions say to check the timing). I'm running Nology wires but cant imagine how it would make a difference.

From what I can tell by looking at the fly wheel through the timing hole while turning the rear wheel foreward there is a section where material has been removed to balance it between the top dead center line and the front cylinder full advance mark. I think I can see this section with the light at 2300-2500RPM with the module advanced fairly well passed the static timing mark.. This tells me its not reaching full advance. I was fairley certain it had to be a bad VOES. But like I said it tested out fine if not a little weak as far as cutting in too early.

Any help would be appreciated as I need to get her timed and dyno tuned for Rolling Thunder. Thanks.

 

Well I think I got her pegged.
I found an old thread somewhere where a man said to get the advance mark in the window where you want it then through your primary chain inspection hole make a mark on your rotor lining up somewhere on your inner primary case (make sure your timing mark on your flywheel hasn't moved). I used a yellow paint marker, it shows up real well. Also make sure you drain your primary fluid. If you used your rear wheel to turn your engine over to get your mark in the window, Don't forget to put it back in neutral before you start it up. I set the cruise at about 2500 RPM, pointed the light at my paint marks and could see clearly that I was "slightly retarded" take that last part any way you will. It worked beautifully. Thanks whoever the original poster of this info was. All and all my dynamic timing ended up to be only a few degrees advanced over the static, as I suspected. I hope this info doesn't get buried and can be helpful to someone else.

 

Good tip. Thanks for posting. Give props to your source.