Changed handlebars on my street glide last year, bike is a 2010 FBW. I opted to leave the dreaded "green connector" in place and everything was fine for several months and several thousand miles. About a month ago bike turned the check engine light on with the codes P1510, P2127, and P2138. Codes would clear but re-occurred randomly and started to see some drivability issues but never went into limp mode. Pulled the bike apart and cut the green plug out and soldered the wires, cleared the codes and all seemed well for a week or so. I also pulled the six pin connector off the throttle body and checked the female pins for scale and applied some di-electric grease to the connections. The bike started throwing the same codes again and also having some drivability issues. I had ordered a twist grip sensor that doesn't have the green connector P/N 32310-08 in the bars and installed it today. Cleared the codes, started the bike and the @##$# check engine light came on again even with a new TGS. Same three codes have always been indicated when the check engine light comes on.

Bike will be heading to the dealer next since I have an extended warranty and the likely culprits appear to be either the throttle body or the ecm. Hope it's not the ecm or I will likely be on the hook for another SE Pro Super Tuner since mine won't "marry" to a new one from what I hear.

Wish I could convert the bike to a cable throttle body, I would have Latus Motors Racing manifold / throttle body set ups on both bikes.

 

Its going to be in the wiring that was done, I am assuming. 2138 is TGS correlation code.

How that works is there are TWO sensors in the TGS. BOTH have to align inside of the ECM or the bike will limp mode (1510). Might wish to try swapping the leads from the TGS... maybe one sensor must lead the other sensor? Don't know. Clean the pins on the ECM itself, and then start REALLY looking at the wiring. Tugging and pulling, etc could have shorted or opened a conductor somewhere in the harness it self. Since you replaced the TGS... 2 TGS's can't be bad... look at each conductor one at a time. Feel them to see if the copper is still inside as a plastic coating over a wire can still be intact, but the wire itself inside can be broken.

Saying that both sensors are NOT acting the same... I feel THAT is the key. And with this SLOWLY developing? That also points to a wire shorting or opening. NOT the ECM, etc.

 

Work Truk is correct. The 2 sensors have to have a steady 5 volts at all times between them. One might be .7 and the other has to be 4.3 . No matter what they have to maintain 5 volts or the bike will go into limp mode. Here's the little know fact that people don't realise. There is a proper way to shut off your bike. You MUST use the main ignition kill switch, not the run/stop switch on the switch housing. when you use the ignition switch it is a hard kill of the bike, meaning evreything shuts of at the same time. Thus was never a big deal untill the TBW bikes came out in '08. Now we have all kinds of bikes going into "limp mode" and having high idle problems. That's usually because people are shutting off there bikes with the run/stop switch. If you shut your bike off with the run/stop switch before your bike comes to an idle, it will re-learn the idle to what the RPM was when you shut it down. It's kind've like shutting off your computer (whichis what you are essentially doing to your bike). If you don't shut it off properly you will eventually have problems.

I'm not saying that's what you have going on, just throwing that out there for a F.Y.I.

 

The baffling thing to me is the way the problem came out of no where. The install on the bars was last year. The bike ran fine, no codes, no run problems. I have checked the wiring fairly thoroughly, though I had not pulled the connectors from the ecm. There is a service bulletin that covers this (TT 418A) according to my friend that did the build and tune on the bike. If I lived closer to the shop that did the build / tune I wouldn't be messing with it. I have not yet been able to find a copy to read to see what is suggested.

I will be checking wires and connectors over the weekend as the appointment at the dealership isn't till next week.

More to follow as the problem gets identified and solved.

 

Time for the next step in the process. Dropped the bike off at the shop last week for them to look at the problem. They called Friday and said the bike is ready for pickup when I get back to town today. They replaced the throttle body and the tech rode the bike for 30 miles or so and didn't have any problems. Time will tell, hopefully the problem has been cured and no more random check engine lights in my future.

 

Let us know.

 

ECM:P2138 TPS correlation error,after getting rained on

The rain had nothing to do with it. wireing between the gooseneck and fairing was what caused my problem. search above thread for the long version.

 

What rain? NOTHING in the OP mentions rain. You also did not link the thread you wish for us to read... so what... WE need to search for it?

 

Well I went to pick up the bike and find that the codes were still there even with a "known good" throttle body on the bike. I had tried to explain what I knew about the problem but the service dude (or there is another word that sounds similar that might fit for a service writer that devalues the knowledge of an owner) didn't even bother to take adequate notes so the tech knew what the problems were.

When I took the bike back (without ever leaving the parking lot), the tech and service manager were both stating it had to be the twist grip sensor or the throttle body. Before I could say anything another tech standing there pointed out it was likely a wiring harness issue. I again shared what I have read here with the tech and service manager this time part of the conversation, so the wiring harness will get looked at and also the tech is now aware of the other concerns with the bike that the service writer didn't bother to note on the work order. Emphasis here is that the service writer didn't make notes so the tech had all the symptoms I had noticed. The tech is a good wrench and I believe he will find the problem now that he has all the info to work with.