Here is a screen shot of what I'm talking about

 

You've run them that lean without issues?? Seems like you'd get some surging and heat.. The AFR on a tmax is typically about 1/2 point lower than what you see on a DJ dyno..

Max

 

I routinely run mine at 14.2 and have had no issues. I also adjust my "AFR vs engine Temp" table to start adding fuel at 280 deg when I lean it out.

I bring it back down to 13.7 when its hot outside or of I'm know I'm going to be riding in a lot of stop and go traffic (like at Bike Week).

I leave the closed throttle positions alone so I don't develop decel popping

 

I like the idea of adjusting the "AFR vs engine Temp" maps in the running region.. May try it to get the mile up some in cooler temps.. I do know that on one bike once ambient goes above 110F gas mileage drops pretty badly.

FWIW the new gen 3 units can store up to 8 maps internally.. There is a way with the throttle and on off switch that you can switch maps.. Not mess with it tho..

 

After helping a couple guys troubleshoot on the phone the other night, a few tips for those new to t-max and setting it up on a bike:

1) Do *not* install the software using the supplied cd. Instead, go straight to the thunder max website and download the appropriate version from there. You'll get the latest update this way and won't have to run the update feature after you install from cd (and it doesn't work all that well that way).

2) the first time you run the software, make sure you have an Internet connection and download the latest maps.

3) if you have an older t-max that isn't USB, install the driver for your USB to COM adapter before you plug that stuff into your PC. Also, get a cheap USB to USB extension so you can have a lot more freedom of maneuver from bike to PC.

4) the first time you hook up your t-max to your PC and open the software, make sure you have an Internet connection and update the firmware on your t-max even if you just bought it brand new. It's easy to do and instructions right there in the t-max software.

5) the t-max needs a lot of juice to run properly. I hook up a trickle charger every time I'm plugged into it just to be on the safe side.

6) when finished with a linked session, recommended sequence to unplug is: click 'unlink', turn off ignition, unplug from t-max.

7) save your maps early and often! I also give them names that clue me in to when I saved it and what the map has in it. For example, "20140624_map750_IACauto"

Hope that helps someone avoid some headaches.

 

I took my bike to a Awesome HD tuner that mostly uses TM's and got an entirely different bike back when i picked it up...This sucker really runs awesome now compared to just a standard Stage I. Chris at Pico's Garage in Sioux Falls, SoDak is probably one of the nations premier Harley Davidson tuners and i highly recommend them for any and all types of Harley Davidson upgrades/work. He specializes in the use of the ThunderMax Tuners which i'm totally sold on now. I did alot of research over the winter on all the different ECM Tuners for Harley and the TM stood out head and shoulders over any of the others from what i read about them all.

 

Anybody with a TM installed on a 14 touring having a problem manually activating the EITMS? Still can't get mine to activate with rolling the throttle.

 

Thundermax doesn't use EITMS. The alternative is to make adjustments to the AFR vs. Temp table and the Timing vs. Temp. table. As your engine temp rises when you are in heavy traffic, temps rising above 280 degrees typicaly, you will set those tables to add fuel and retard timing.

 

Just installed a newer model t-max (part #309-460) in my '04 heritage last night and did not see an option in the software to run IAC auto after writing the base map. I emailed t-max tech support earlier today to ask if it's no longer needed, and they responded already and said that feature is now seamlessly integrated to the software so users no longer need to run it.

 

A little background, 2012 Ultra, Thundermax ECM, K&N Air Filter and Rhinehart true duals. I the pipes and Stage 1 was done 3 months after I got the bike. I consistently got 33 mpg. Two weeks ago I noticed the vacuum cap was missing so I replaced it. Two complete tanks of fuel since. First tank 30.1 mpg, and second tank 32.3 mpg. Riding style did not change, riding area did not change, weather was same. I always run 91 octane. Don't understand the drop in fuel economy? any ideas? The other question is I knew I would have a drop in fuel economy with the stage one install but I think that is too large of a drop. The work was done by Zippers during Bikeweek 2013.