Ok so some jackass decided to vandalize my bike while it was put up for storage. They cut the wiring that comes out of the frame and goes threw the bars to the handlebar controls. How can I repair the canbus wiring? I have been told that I cannot solder canbus wiring. Is there a a replacement wiring harness I can buy or will I have to replace the entire switch housing? They are $225 per housing.

 

I am not an exact expert, but this is what I do know for fact.

1. HD service manual shows switch replacements being spliced and soldered in place. So as far as switches it is OK for sure. (At least on my 2011 SG)

TBW I am assuming. Several people, here when doing bars, have spliced the TBW and no issues.

So in my opinion, yes you could. I would make sure you have enough length so the splices are not binding when you go lock to lock.

Hope that helps some.

Good luck!

 

TBC gonna try to solder then tommorow.

 

Soldering is OK as long as it is not in a area where the wiring will flex.

 

I think you will end up buying the harness. These guys have j1850 bikes. A 2011 touring has nothing at all in common. Canbus connects body modules to the ECM and transmits TWO way info while doing do.

 

problem is you cant buy just the wiring I would have to uy both switch assemblies for close to $600

 

We solder wire harnesses with CanBus in the Auto industry every day .

 

Just remember it is a twisted pair of wires. Ensure you keep wires twisted at a minimum of 12 twists per foot if your replacing any of the wire. Also I don't know if it is shielded at all but if it is only ground one side of the shield wire.

 

Whomever told you that canbus can not be spiced is confusing ethernet cat 5 with canbus. It can be spliced by soldering or good crimp connections the key is good low resistance connections and to maintain the twist in the cables as much as possible. There is no shield in canbus, Do NOT GROUND EITHER CANBUS LINE. CANBUS LOW IS NOT GROUND.

 

Took the harness apart today. Soldered all the wiring back together with silver solder and heat shrinked it all. So far everything is working perfect. All switches, lights, and dash work like they should. No canbus errors, no check engine lights, and no computer codes.