Had a 96 ci with 555 cams and I had to take it back because on a good Idle it would puke through the air cleaner on take off then run fine. I put 103 jugs and ported heads on it with the 555 cams and rode it for 50 miles before I took it in and IT ran fine. Now it does the same thing after being on the dyno again. Once I get it going it is scary fast. Why did he have to put another flash in it and tweak on that? I thought he could just richen up the tune in it and be good to go. I take it back tomorrow to see if he can get it right. If I twist the throttle slow its ok but to fast and it pukes.

Tuner told me that it pop
ped and sputtered on top end with tune that was in it. I got on it in 2nd gear taking it in and it seemed fine.

 

You always have to flash the bike to get the new altered tune into the bike. ONLY the flashed tune changes things... it is not a deal you can have a map up and simply tweak it.

A dealer is the LAST place I would have tune a bike, BTW. Call up Randy at Hyperformance in Des Moines (Ames?), and ask HIM who is a good tuner nearby. Most likely a good bet would be to tell the 'tuner' to lower the AE table to get rid of the stutter when whacking the throttle. When you increase the cubic inches in the tuning constants, the AE table gets whacked out of shape. Your problem could really be too MUCH fuel... not too little, when transitioning from idle to throttle tip in.

 

Thanks werk, I figured it was lean because of going to a 103 and the ported head but thought it was rich on the bottom end as I do see black smoke when cracking the throttle from an Idle. Pipes get wet also and I think its unburnt fuel.

 

Werk, Thinking about what you said, They cant tweak on the map in the bike makes me think what good is my Race tuner. Maybe you didn't see that's what I have in it. And it didn't smoke black until I got it back. Its at the shop again and I wish I would of went with the TTS.

 

All flash tuners work this way. You shoot a new tune with the device.

Now, that being said, You don't start over each time. A tuner, and you, should ALWAYS have a copy of the tune I the bike. Most give customers a copy on a thumb drive. Doing that WOULD be tweaking the existing map. Use the calibration on the thumb drive and work THAT tuning file.

You mean to say the dealer started from scratch? How in the he'll can you dial things in that way? What BS.

 

I went to the shop today and its cold here in Iowa again, 30 out and he told me he doesn't know if he can get it to stop that on take off, He said u have the big intake with the 50mm TB and that's my problem. I think I kind of pissed him off as I told him online people said it should be able to be tuned better, He said I can start from scratch again and charge you for another tune. I was warned about HD shops but this is a first for me. Its not suppose to warm up much again until Friday but I will report back here when I get it back again.

 

Huh? You have a 2008 touring bike right? The one in the pics? You have Drive By Wire Throttle body, right? 50mm is stock. I see you ported it a bit. Ummmm... I don't know if I would trust any yaahoo shop to do that, but whats done is done.

Tell him this, pull the AC off of the bike, while it is up on the dyno. Look at the throttle blade when he gives it that initial bit of throttle, like coming off of a stop sign kind of thing. If whats happening is what I think? He will see the throttle blade do a wave at him. The blade will open, then close then open again, all the while he is NOT doing that with the handlebar throttle.

What happens is AE is way too rich for the bike. When he hits a bit of throttle, the throttle opens like it should, then the O2s see that extra gasoline in the pipe mixture, and closes the blade back down, but the ECM forces it right back open, because you ARE giving it some throttle.

I know this does NOT make sense. Wizzard told me about this, and until I tried it myself on the dyno, I didn't quite believe it either.

Since you have a SEPST, the only way to attack this issue is to be sure you have the throttle blade progressivety table set to however it comes in the calibration, and have him REMOVE fuel from the AE table.

Right now... it IS too cold to tune properly.

 

Sorry Wurk Truk, you explained it well and it makes perfect sense. Even I understood it.

 

HaHa.

 

I forgot to tell you that he said I need a bigger throttle body. I sure appreciate this info. I don't know if its the y pipe but when It was a 96 ci they had to put like 6 flashes in it to get it to stop doing what its doing now. I asked him if he could lean it around idle and he got pissed. LOL