Im having trouble getting my bike tuned and wanted to know if they are having trouble because of the y pipe. They have had it on the dyno 2 times. First time when done they said it was fine on the dyno and when I went to pick it up it kicked back on itself and puke back through the carb on a quick throttle burst. Get it going and it was fine. Now after 2nd tune he said again was fine on the dyno and we test drove it. I went to pick it up and blurped the throttle and it loaded up and started missing on one cylinder for a few seconds. Then threw an engine code. They asked if I changed the tune from the first time then said the TB must be leaking then said my work wasn't right I did. When it was a 96 ci with cams they had trouble tuning it but got it running good. Going through the same thing with 103 upgrade. Im thinking when he does the rear cylinder he might be putting sniffer in the left pipe and it gets what maybe 20% of the flow? Oh man I hate this. Any info would be great When I got the 103 kit put in I rode it for 50 miles and it ran great, It might of been lean but still ran good.

 

I just picked up the bike and let it run for 10 minutes before touching the throttle and its a lot better. It didn't puke through the A/C But still if I didn't give it a lot or just a little took off ok from a stop That in between it still loaded up a little. Its like 35 and going to get up to 55 today and 65 tomorrow so I hope warmer weather will help. I did get on it and its scary. I couldn't imagine riding a 120r

 

A y pipe will simply not tune correctly. Even with blocks to sniff, using wide bands... y pipe simply sucks. There will ALWAYS be fresh air introduced to the rear cylinder O2 sensor due to reversion in the pipe.

It would be my recommendation to you to save up and buy a different set of pipes. Your bike is tough to buy a decent pipe, too. 09 up is easy to buy any pipe one wishes.

For you? Your oil pan is incorrect for any of these new pipes. You can either swap oil pans or attempt to drill your oil pan, or have someone do this. New pipes require a clamp bolted to the oil pan.

As it sits, you can buy a decent 2-1 and have that work, but having twin tail pipes is tricky.

Look into a SuperTrapp is you want the bike quiet. Talk to Frank Drago at Drago bike works if looking for a 2-1 that can have a lower level of noise.

With a y pipe... I would NEVER recommend you run the bike in closed loop. The tuner should tune a y pipe all open loop.

 

Wurk, Got to thank you again. I have Rush pipes now and love them. I think a friend told me he has a Vance and Hines for 400 and didn't run it long as he didn't like the sound of them. Can you buy louder pipes for the super trap?

 

Have a look at the S&S/Khromewerks 2-1-2 head pipe. Just got one for my 2006 FLTR, it's a very nice pipe.

 

Do we need to drill and tap a hole in the oil pan like stock pipes?

 

No, just swap out 4 of the oil pan bolts to longer ones (for the spacers, included with the header). Even though the pipe run under the oil pan the kickstand is still the lowest point of the bike. No issues fitting the headers with basic tools and it comes with 18mm bungs.

 

Im going to wait for other pipes until this fall, Got to thank you guys.

Found out the throttle body is leaking bad so half to fix it and have it retuned. I will post results. I did a stupid thing. I thought the rubber o rings looked good so didn't replace them. Bad thing is I had new ones in the gasket set.

 

I replaced the troublesome Y pipe on my 06 Ultra with the fullsac tru-dual conversion for about 120 bucks very satisfied with the results got rid of the heat off my right inner thigh and was able to Vtune it without the reversion issues, running 95" 551 cams stock air box with K&N filter and SE Fatshotz with 18 disc closed end cap nice throaty sound but not loud.

 

Good job!