04 FLHT died on me
#1
04 FLHT died on me
Got the bike out the other day and it acted like it didn't want to start. Got it fired up and 10 or so miles from the house the engine cut out 3 or 4 times and then died. I turned the switch off and back on but nothing, the clock wouldn't even come on. Trailered it home and threw a set of jumper cables to it and it fired right up, remove the cables and it would die. Tried to charge the battery but the next day, nothing. Got a new battery 12.4 volts and it went up to 12.8 after a 30 mile ride. It shows 14.7 or 8 while running so I know it's charging. Do I need to be looking at something else or did the battery just crap out?
J.B.
J.B.
#2
Those symptoms certainly are consistent with a dead battery. As for your new one, I suggest either taking your bike for a good long run, to charge it up fully, or remove it and charge overnight. New batteries are often described as being 'fully charged', but don't believe it! Your battery will thank and reward you if you give it a good start in life.
#3
#5
After a good 24 hour low amp controlled charge and the battery has set about 2 hours voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75%
12.3 = 50%
12.0 =25%
With a DC volt meter hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm or so should read around 14.8 volts. The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on it will never drop back much.
When a battery wears out a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger. Also by taking battery out you know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems. Using the maintenance charger can get 5 years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. If they have one, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any one's for half the money. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery. It will kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably a $500 repair.
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#9
I think I am good to go, the new battery read 12.8 volts after a 200 mile ride and it sitting for 2 hours. I did not charge the new battery, dealer said it was ready to drop in and go, wish I had now! Oh, sorry about your hair Ripsaw, happens to the best of us!
J.B.
J.B.
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