Hello all, this is my first post on HDF and im in need of help!

I ride a 99 Ultra w/MM EFI (<-- P.O.S.) and im having idle issues. i had a Power Commander put on a little while back and ever since it wont idle right. the shop that put the PC on put it on the Dyno afterwards and the bike runs like a champ. the shop advised they did nothing that could have caused the idle issues (of course not) but they reluctantly tried to help get it figured out; never the less it wont idle right.

it was idling at about 600 cold and then about 800 warm but it would hickup quite often and shut off. i took it back and the tech adjusted the mechanical idle and it idled fine cold, until i got home, 20 miles later, and it was idling at about 1500 warm.

i got tired of taking it back to them and it not getting any better so i dove into it myself. i read several threads about the ISC Actuator so i replaced it to the tune of $95 for the kit including the arm w/bearing and set screws.
with the ISC unplugged and with a needle in the G/V Idle positioning sensor wire, i set the idle positioning sensor at .275 and the cold idle screw at .65. it ran like crap so i turned the cold idle in about 1/8 - 1/2 a turn and it did the trick (@ about 100 Deg.) it ran fine but when it got to about 140 Deg. it went to crap; idling at about 600ish and cutting off. figuring the warm idle would have and effect on the would thing, i kept my hand on the throttle and got it through to about 220 deg. and adjusted the warm idle screw. now its idling at about 900-1000 (where i wanted it) Perfect!... i plugged the (new) ISC back in and unhooked the battery for a while, let it cool down to room temp and tried it again.

now it runs like a champ at 100 deg. (1100-1200 RPM then shortly after, down to about 1000,) but still when it gets to about 140-150 deg. it runs like crap again until it gets to over 200 deg.

im not sure where to go from here and need help from some of you motor heads out there.

thanks alot
Tater

 

Proper idle for that bike is 1200-1400 on start up and 900-1000 when warm. I suspect that the engine temp sensor is bad.

 

That's what I'm afraid of, while I'm sure a temp sensor would only be about $50 or so, I just spent 4600 on a baker DD6, got it back and went for another $100 on the OSC. Now another $50 on a sensor that I don't know if it'll fix the problem... Nicole and dining is not making momma love feel the love like she used to lol

 

Oops, ISC not OSC

 

There is a way to check the ETS by resistance and voltage at ambient temperature. Do a search on the touring forum. I posted it there recently.

 

had problems with mine but it was the Throttle Position Sensor...had to replace and set it as per the manual....

 

replaced the ETS ($40) and nothing changed... i dont get it... runs great at cold and warm but from about 150 to 200 it dumps down to about 650 RPM's... im doing about 2200 miles in july and would like to get this sorted out before but i'm now spending trip money to replace parts that dont need replacing... smh!

 

any more ideas... could the power commander cause things like that or would PC problems cause issues across the board?

 

1) Have you tried taking the PC out of the system. It's fairly easy to do. Also check to see that they installed the right model for your bike.
2) Have you tried Pulling any trouble Codes?
3) Did you resynch the ECM to the IAC after you replaced it? Did the shop do it after installing the PC?
4) Have you check that the battery terminals are on tight on both ends, and that your battery is good?
5) Have you cleaned the air bleeds? They are the two small holes at the top of the mouth of the throttle body. Take a can of throttle body cleaner, and stick the straw in there. Give it a few good squirts. Careful though. It will spit back at you.
6) Did you check the condition of your plugs to see if they are fowling. Also check your plug wires to insure you are getting good spark.


You just can't start replacing parts and hope that it will get better. Start with the simple things that do not cost a lot, and work your way through the system. If the problem started after the PC was installed, and was not there before, then something with the installation went duff. I doubt that installing a PC would cause another sensor to fail. The last thing that you should do when tuning a MM EFI bike is to adjust the idle.

 

1) Not sure what they did upon installation of the PC but I was told they put it on the dyno to remap and tune it So I didn't touch it.
2) was going to but don't know how and I probably cleared any when I unhooked the battery after adjusting the ISC/IPS.
3) I may have but don't know which of the many procedures I've done would be the one that resyncs it/them.
4) yes and they are... Batt is a few years old but not weak enough enough to make a difference I wouldn't think.
5) no I haven't but I will tomorrow.
6) plugs are new and wires look good; got strong spark.

I am at the end of my rope is why I've started replacing things and several people have said the ISC was the culprate... I figured the I figured the ETS was $40 and it was worth $40 to have confirmation and possibly a spare lol...
I'm pretty much ready to try anything
In reference to resyncing the IAC and ECM how do I do that, (ive removed the 5 & 15a fuses over night; from behind the right side cover, if thats the procedure you're talking about) I'll give it a shot if that's not it... I'll try cleaning the air bleeds tomorrow.
I'm open to ant idea you got. Thanks alot