Hi to all here. I just picked up a 77 ironhead basket case. This is my first Harley and I am looking forward to getting it back on the road. This bike has received just enough maintenance to make it run and when it quit running it got sold. This process seems to have happened for a number of years. I will not do that, I plan to go through and refresh the wear items and make this bike as reliable as I can. Unfortunately the frame has been raked a little but it looks like it was done properly so I'm not worried about weakness in the frame. I am not really sure about the condition of the wire harness so I will just replace that. The rear fender has been repositioned and cut shorter. I don't like the way it looks so a stock one will be put back on. I do like the rear stop light so that stays. I would like turn signals so I'll be looking for some of those. Now for the good part...the engine looks to be in good shape with only the heads removed. I have already ordered a complete engine gasket kit and I plan to pull the cylinders and have it all measured. At the very least I will put new rings on it and lightly hone the cylinders. I am also planning to completely rebuild the clutch with new plates and I was going to use the extra plate kit. It will get new cables all way around and a generator and starter rebuild.

And so starts the rebuild. Any direction on where to start and what to address first and really problematic area would be appreciated. Thanks for reading and I look forward to hearing from you guys. I plan to have this done by next spring.

Little about me, I have restored many jap bikes and last winter I rebuilt a 85 BMW k100. My main touring bike is a 1980 Suzuki gs1000.

 

I forgot to include that I already did download the factory service manual and parts catalog. I will definitely take lots of pictures and post them as I go along.

I finally got the bike home and here are some pictures of what I will be starting with.

 

Top end is off so I will be pulling the valves off and checking all the clearances. I think the cylinders will get checked, honed if they are still good and re ringed.


I had to pull the front calipers off since they were frozen and It was a real pain to push the bike around. It turns out the bike originally had spoked wheels but in the past they got traded for the rims off of a 20th anniversary sportster. I like them.

One other thing, aren't there supposed to be little caps on the what i am assuming are the turn signal buttons on the left side control?



On the right side control it says hi and low, shouldn't this be the run/off control? There are 2 buttons under that Hi/Low switch, what are they for? I assume one of them is for the start switch, what is the other one for?



Another thought I had, has anyone ever put bar end weights inside the bars to help with the vibration? If you did, did it help?
Can anyone tell me if the sonic straight rate springs for an 88 to 06 sporty 883 will work in these forks?

 

I would check the welds on the frame, had a 73 xlch that broke the vertical tubes under the seat.

Pick up a clutch tamer, small sleeve type thing that's easy to install and worked well for me but be mindful of the little ***** in the ramp and ball release mechanism. A small dab of grease keeps them in place. Also make sure all the parts are there. Mine was missing the long sleeves that go on the clutch hub studs.

Check rear motor mounts for cracks.

There are supposed to be buttons on the switch pods, they are sold in packs of ten. Put a dab of super glue to keep them on. The outer buttons are turn signals and the inner left is for the horn, inner right is starter. Right rocker is run/stop, left rocker is high beam.

Pretty sure trying to mitigate vibration on an Ironhead is a losing battle.


Good luck on the build! Keep us posted

 

Couple other things, get rid of those silly slotted primary plugs and get the ones you can use a proper wrench on. You'll thank me.

The rear fender struts seem to be mounted wrong. If I'm not mistaken they are mounted on the outside of the rear frame fork.

Lastly the rear shocks seem to be laid down a lot. Could make for a harsh ride. The angle increases the spring rate. If you want it lowered there are shorter shocks on the market.

 

The button caps are part number 71534-72. The trick to installing them is ...
1. put one drop of red locktite into the button cap
2. press hard on a very sharp pointed object up into the shaft of the switch to hold it in place
3. press the cap onto the switch until you feel it click into place

Right side rocker switch should be labelled RUN/OFF.

There is a turn signal switch on each side. Left side has a horn switch, right side has start switch.