Did a compression test. Here are the results:

Front cylinder;
cold:
dry 102 ; wet 118
Hot:
dry 90 ; wet 100

Rear cylinder;
cold:
dry 110 ; wet 118
Hot;
dry 110 ; wet 120

Got a Leak down kit on order.
Probably going to need at lest a valve job on the front cylinder.
If I do one, should I do both?
If I remove the heads is it that much more work to remove and rework the jugs? And should I do so?

This is a '76 XLCH. It's kicking my Butt to start it. Kick Back is killing me. Still haven't changed the points. But pretty much done every thing else. I retarded the timing and that seemed to help. Then I found my Timing Light and got the timing right. That moved it back to where it was before. Got more Kick Back again.
Will fixing the cylinders help any in starting and reducing the the kick back?
Also, can you still get the clear timing hole plug from HD or some where else?
I'm sure if I get every thing right starting will get easier. If It don't get any better, it'll have to let it go. I like the bike. But starting it is really a pain in the foot.

 

you have a few things going on at the same time - points effect the timing -- if they are too close in the gap it is retarted in the timing - if you have too much gap in the points the timing is advanced, by the nature of the starting point. when it opens the points as the dist is turning - and that is the reason most will convert the ignition to an electronic type - also the points we get today are garbage, the tips are not coated like they were years back - this mod is one you want to do

second possable issue - behind the points plate in the cam cover, is a advance unit that wears out from time to time, and also sticks in what ever spot it feels like and that will make it real hard to start as well as run bad

intake manifold leaks ( the o rings ) also can and does cause hard starting as well

a weak coil or the wrong OHMs resistance 3 instead of the correct 5 for points can when used with the steel plugwires - incorrect sparkplugs is also in the mix autolite is a good choice champion plugs are for lawnmowers

bad fuel or a glazed over low speed jet can also be a thing to get a motor to start and or the choke not closing all the way when choking it

you need the parts and service books from harley to get this right

and yes do both heads and check both pistons and cylinders before puting it back together

 

I did buff up the points and gap them. They were pitted. Bought points and plugs and inspection plate gasket from a HD dealer. Gasket and plugs were the wrong ones. I didn't open the bubble wrap on the points and condenser. I plan to return then since if the other two were wrong most likely the points kit is wrong to. I went to a auto parts house to buy them. But I didn't take any part numbers with me. I thought someone had said they would have a listing for them, but they don't. I buy on 'Blue Streak' points. Plugs in it I was told are new. They are NGK B6L.
I've check and oiled the weights behind to points. They looked OK.
I've sprayed starting fluid around the intake while running. No change in RPMs.
Haven't checked anything on the coil. Will check that next weekend.
Fuel is new premium.
Carb was rebuilt by the POs mechanic/cop buddy. Don't know if he did a good job or not. Choke seems to work as it should.
Parts and service books from harley are on order. But haven't arrived yet.
What is the minimum compression reading? Is the front cylinder below that? And would that cause kick back? or just hard starting?

 

For a compression test choke must be open [**** pushed in], you must hold the throttle open while cranking the engine, and bike must be at full operating temperature. The latter means out for a ride for at least 20+ minutes. Running the bike in the shop will not be good enough to get maximum numbers. So depending on this, you may not have a problem in this area.

The leakdown test should give a better idea of where a problem may exist - rings or valves. It looks like it may be rings as the results went up for the wet tests. But i do not have enough experience to know if the numbers you got are significant.

For the leakdown test you need an air compressor; you should remove the pushrods from the engine to be certain that the piston does not move [valves stay closed] under the pressure. The engine must be hot for this test same as for compression test.

My mechanic always says "Never tear down a good running engine". So with this thought i would not remove either the heads or the cylinders unless i had good evidence of a problem.

Removing the cylinders is easy enough - just pull them off - but please if you do this remember to stuff shop cloths between the case and the cylinder bases while you are removing them, and keep the cloths in place while they are off and while replacing them. If debris falls in it becomes a very expensive and challenging job to completely dismantle the engine to remove the debris.

If you do remove the cylinders the job becomes more complex as you then have to deal with perhaps removing the pistons as well [piston pin clips], replacing rings, etc.

If you are inexperienced at this work be prepared to proceed slowly, carefully.

As johnjzjz has pointed out there are things to be carefully checked out before considering engine tear down. Please be certain of all of these things before going at this.

 

I haven't been riding it as of yet. Taken it around the block (2 miles). It's not street legal yet. I ran it for about 15 minutes. I didn't hold then throttle open. Choke was open.
I'll wait for the leak down kit to come in before I make any decisions.
The last inspection sticker one this bike was from '94. So don't think its been ran much in the last 20 years. It may have never had a top end job. I've got it soaking again with ATF to see if the rings are stuck.

 

Tell them you want points for an old straight six cylinder chevy.

 

+ 1 on the 6 cylinder chevy points BUT the condenser is a V8 chevy not a 6 cylinder the only difference is the length of the condensers wire, the shorter one is the one used in the harley dizzy

1960 to 1973 should do it

 

When you get the opportunity to do a technically correct compression test the numbers will be significantly better.

If you are running the engine in the shop you should have a fan blowing air over it. I use a 24" x 24" fan.

Engine should be well warmed up for the leakdown test. The usual procedure is to get it warmed up, then do the compression test, then do the leakdown test.

 

I had thought the reason to ride it for 15 minutes before testing it was to get it up to operating temperature. And that it wouldn't get there if just running it in a shop. So why the fan? I'm I getting it to hot or not hot enough?
While on the subject, Should I get a oil temperature cap/gauge to monitor the temperature?

 

The fan simulates the air stream that passes over the engine while riding. It is very bad for the engine to run it for any extended period without an air stream. I know it sounds contradictory to get it up to temp with a fan running. But it is necessary to get the internals up to temp in a balanced way.

The compression test results will not be accurate unless the engine is at full operating temperature. I do this test about as often as oil changes to keep track of the engine condition. I always do the test immediately after returning from a ride, usually an hour or two, mainly out of the city. I do not know off hand what would be the minimum time. I suspect 15 minutes would be too little.

Fan or no fan i would not attempt to get the engine up to temperature in the shop. It needs a ride.

An oil temperature gauge would be a handy thing to have. I have seen them for 79-on Sportster oil tank but not for earlier models. Or you could just use a thermometer, testing in the oil tank from time to time.

BTW, i am not a mechanic or an expert on this stuff. I speak from my 10 years experience with my own IronHeads and what i have learned over the years on these forums. For more ideas you could post also on the other IronHead forum at XLForum.net