Got the bike up to operating temperature and did the leak down test. I know Mick said the remove the push rods but I didn't do it that way. So here's what happened. I got it to TDC and checked the push rods to make sure they would turn freely. They did. So I put the air to the cylinder. Heard air coming out of the carb. So I thought, bad intake valve. But then I recheck the push rods and found the intake push rod would no longer turn. I had to turn the lifter screw about three turns before the push rod would turn again. Then the air stopped coming out of the carb. Was the same on both cylinders. What would cause that? Would that mean my intake valves are not seating while the engine is running? Seems to me once that push rod would turn freely then the valve would be completely closed and couldn't close any more. So what cause the pushrod the tighten up and need to be loosen more?
I did hear air coming out the tail pipe. More from the front than the rear. Bad Exhaust valves?
Following the instructions that came with the kit I removed the oil filler cap on the tank and listen there. Then felt like a dummy. The oil tank is connected by oil lines. Air from the crank case is not going to come out there. So I removed the Plug from the left crank case cover. Parts manual says it's the 'Filler Plug'. Is that the proper place to listen for air? I does have a small hole in it with a filter on the inside. Is that the only crank case vent there is? I didn't hear any air from there.
Then finely on leak percentage. Later after I had completed the test I got to thinking maybe I did that part wrong. I followed the kit instructions and zeroed it out then connected it. Since using the quick connect when I connected it it loss air and went to 30 percent. So I zeroed it out again. I'm now thinking I was suppose to leave it as it was and let it build back up to show the percent of leakage. Right?
But regardless of the percent to looks like I have exhaust valve problems?

 

I had about the same results the first couple of times i tried the leakdown test. Then i realized that when the pressure is applied the piston moves down a little, enough to rotate the crank slightly, then the whole valve train slightly, so that the valves open slightly, hence the "false" info about the valves not sealing. If you remove the pushrods you can get true readings, both intake and exhaust.

To check for air getting past the rings listen at the small timing plug hole on the left side of the cases just below the V of the cylinders. Take some care removing and re-installing this plug so as to not strip the threads.

I'll have to review the instruction sheet to comment on the leak percentage, later today.

 

I know Mick said the remove the push rods but I didn't do it that way

AND your having an issue with leakage -- Ah Yeaaa

if your in a hurry and cant do it correctly right now STOP and when you can do it the right way start over

 

OK, it makes since that the air pressure may had moved the piston. So once I got the cylinder under pressure and both exhaust and intake push rods would rotate freely isn't that good to go to check for leaks? What more would it do to completely remove the push rods? Not trying to arguer with you, just trying to get an understanding.

 

we do it this way - support the bike in the air on a lift soRRy I HAVE A SHOP SOO -- THEN we remove the push rods and sparkplugs - hold open the carb 1/2 is good - remove the timing plug - put a small screwdriver into one of the plug holes turn the motor to TDC and lock the rear wheel we use a shop helper holding the rear brake - turn your leakdown on and record the loss percentage at TDC - than turn the motor a bit re do the same plug hole but this time it is being done at BDC -

the idea is to insure the cylinder seal is good top to bottom - also hearing air escaping in the tail pipe or the carb as well as the timing plug will coinside with the amount of loss -- 20% is the max number front to rear and if you have 20 or more take it all apart its time -- hope that helps you -- jz

 

You are right, that if the pushrods are set so that they rotate freely throughout the process then the valves are staying closed and you should get trustworthy readings. I have found for myself it is less trouble to just remove them and then i know for certain that i am getting trustworthy readings.

Many guys do not have a good understanding of how these engines work. For them it is easier also to suggest simply removing the p-rods rather than to explain how to set them so they will not be affected by the air pressure. Everyone figures that out eventually.

I have never done the bottom of the cylinder as johnjzjz suggests - i'll try to remember that for the next time. Thank you.

 

That's what I was thinking. The bike is so hard to kick start I'm just hoping I found the reason. I don't mind going into it. But I've about jumped on the kick starter about all I can. Its got to get better than it is now.

 

to me it sounds like you do not have a clear understanding of whats going on with the leak down and the valve adjustment issue you might have created

the valves --

you wrote -- The bike is so hard to kick start I'm just hoping I found the reason

explain that in detail what did you find -- what reason

when did it start to be a thing to kick

and nothing gets better on its own -- explain what your talking about

 

I agree with johnjzjz, a leakdown test is not going to reveal a problem with a kick start mechanism.