1973 Ironhead
#1
1973 Ironhead
Hey guys, so my bike recently started to keep running when I turn the ignition off. There is no kill switch on it. Any ideas what this can be?
I heard it could be short but not sure of where and also heard it could be the starter. Does anyone have a photo of there current wiring maybe? Original or even rewired?
I heard it could be short but not sure of where and also heard it could be the starter. Does anyone have a photo of there current wiring maybe? Original or even rewired?
#2
Check the white wire running from the RUN/STOP switch on the right handle bar to the ignition coil, and the white wire running from the ignition key switch to the IGN circuit breaker. Check especially the connections at both ends.
Ooops, re-read the question and see that you do not have the RUN/STOP switch. There was one on the right handlebar from the factory and a PO removed it. Often when they do that they leave a problem behind. You should check where the wires were cut. This can be tedious as the front brake light switch is in the right handlebar assembly - and it is an inconvenient d@mned little thing to re-install.
Another possibility is that the ignition key switch itself is worn out. I think this is quite likely as they do not last forever. They are inexpensive to buy and you get a new pair of keys.
Ooops, re-read the question and see that you do not have the RUN/STOP switch. There was one on the right handlebar from the factory and a PO removed it. Often when they do that they leave a problem behind. You should check where the wires were cut. This can be tedious as the front brake light switch is in the right handlebar assembly - and it is an inconvenient d@mned little thing to re-install.
Another possibility is that the ignition key switch itself is worn out. I think this is quite likely as they do not last forever. They are inexpensive to buy and you get a new pair of keys.
#3
Check the white wire running from the RUN/STOP switch on the right handle bar to the ignition coil, and the white wire running from the ignition key switch to the IGN circuit breaker. Check especially the connections at both ends.
Ooops, re-read the question and see that you do not have the RUN/STOP switch. There was one on the right handlebar from the factory and a PO removed it. Often when they do that they leave a problem behind. You should check where the wires were cut. This can be tedious as the front brake light switch is in the right handlebar assembly - and it is an inconvenient d@mned little thing to re-install.
Another possibility is that the ignition key switch itself is worn out. I think this is quite likely as they do not last forever. They are inexpensive to buy and you get a new pair of keys.
Ooops, re-read the question and see that you do not have the RUN/STOP switch. There was one on the right handlebar from the factory and a PO removed it. Often when they do that they leave a problem behind. You should check where the wires were cut. This can be tedious as the front brake light switch is in the right handlebar assembly - and it is an inconvenient d@mned little thing to re-install.
Another possibility is that the ignition key switch itself is worn out. I think this is quite likely as they do not last forever. They are inexpensive to buy and you get a new pair of keys.
#5
Alright guys, I have relaxed my ignition yet no change. There is a circuit on the right side of the seat that seems to be either tripping or a bad connection and if I'm not mistaken the one wire goes to the ignition and I will bet that it is the problem.
Do the circuits ever go bad? Would they ever have to be replaced or should I start first with just running a fresh wire to that circuit?
Thank you
Do the circuits ever go bad? Would they ever have to be replaced or should I start first with just running a fresh wire to that circuit?
Thank you
#6
Hey Iron,
It doesn't sound like you're going to be able to solve your issue on a forum. First off, get yourself a workshop manual which will have a wiring diagram in it. You may be able to order one from your Harley dealer or get a Clymer manual. Then you'll know exactly what your wiring should look like. The wiring in for '73 was pretty simple so even if your wiring has been modified, it should be fairly easy to sort out and solve this problem. Obviously, you've got a short somewhere allowing power to your coil when you turn the ignition off, so it will be a matter of disconnecting wires until you find it.
You may also be able to google a wiring diagram.
It doesn't sound like you're going to be able to solve your issue on a forum. First off, get yourself a workshop manual which will have a wiring diagram in it. You may be able to order one from your Harley dealer or get a Clymer manual. Then you'll know exactly what your wiring should look like. The wiring in for '73 was pretty simple so even if your wiring has been modified, it should be fairly easy to sort out and solve this problem. Obviously, you've got a short somewhere allowing power to your coil when you turn the ignition off, so it will be a matter of disconnecting wires until you find it.
You may also be able to google a wiring diagram.
Last edited by ccislander; 12-04-2015 at 09:24 PM. Reason: additional info
#7
Alright guys, I have relaxed my ignition yet no change. There is a circuit on the right side of the seat that seems to be either tripping or a bad connection and if I'm not mistaken the one wire goes to the ignition and I will bet that it is the problem.
Do the circuits ever go bad? Would they ever have to be replaced or should I start first with just running a fresh wire to that circuit?
Thank you
Do the circuits ever go bad? Would they ever have to be replaced or should I start first with just running a fresh wire to that circuit?
Thank you
Post a pic of the circuit breakers, showing the wire colors.
The very best way to check each circuit is to do voltage drop tests. I did this for my entire wire harness. Took a couple of days to be thorough. Here is a link ...
Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1608465
Here is a simpler procdure that you might try first ...
Ironhead Charging System Checkout
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=39146
Last edited by IronMick; 12-05-2015 at 08:09 AM. Reason: sp
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#9
Circuits can go bad at any connection, especially it it is not a factory connection. No solder, too much solder, inexperienced hands, whatever. Also, wires get pinched [often the rear harness along the fender] or loosen and get too close to heat.
Post a pic of the circuit breakers, showing the wire colors.
The very best way to check each circuit is to do voltage drop tests. I did this for my entire wire harness. Took a couple of days to be thorough. Here is a link ...
Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1608465
Here is a simpler procdure that you might try first ...
Ironhead Charging System Checkout
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=39146
Post a pic of the circuit breakers, showing the wire colors.
The very best way to check each circuit is to do voltage drop tests. I did this for my entire wire harness. Took a couple of days to be thorough. Here is a link ...
Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1608465
Here is a simpler procdure that you might try first ...
Ironhead Charging System Checkout
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=39146
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