I ordered a Ultima single fire ignition kit #53-660 for my 80 iron head that currently has points. The kit comes with a new coil also.

Any advise on setting this up, tips or tricks

 

Read and follow the instruction sheet carefully. If this is a kit manufactured before Oct 2012 it will be programmed with no "free rev's". Kits manufactured after that date have 3 free rev's programmed in. There will be a date in the upper right corner of the first page. Mine is 1/19/06. Yours may be newer.

The early models are set up for XLCH [kick only] models where you want it to catch immediately. The later models are set up for electric start bikes where the free rev's may result in less stress on the starter motor.

Myself and many other IronHead riders have been using the model programmed for XLCHs on our XLHs for several years [mine for six full years and well in excess of 70,000 miles] with no problems. IMO the concern for starter wear is not well founded.

You do not need to check the ignition timing with a timing light. We all just set the static timing and ride.

The VOES switch must be set to OFF regardless of whether you have a VOES installed or not. The switch is mislabelled compared to other electronic ignitions such as the Crane Hi-4. Read the instruction sheet very carefully if you want to see what VOES ON does mean. Then ignore what you read.

Most guys do not use a VOES. Your bike will run better and get better fuel mileage with a VOES installed. This requires having a carb with a VOES port or making a port in whatever carb or manifold that you have.

Here are my recommended switch settings ...

SW1 OFF
SW2 OFF curve 1
SW3 OFF curve 1
SW4 ON 6000 RPM limit
SW5 OFF 6000 RPM limit
SW6 ON single fire

I road tested various curves. My observation was that each higher numbered curve resulted in noticeably poorer performance.Curve 1 worked best for my bike.
6000 RPM rev limit is my personal choice. My concern is with passing a big truck on a two-lane hiway on a windy day in 3rd gear when an on-coming vehicle appears and i do not want to shift into 4th i just want to keep blasting away at the throttle Choose whatever you want.

Here's the VOES port i installed for my Keihin; It is just a hollow bolt. You can get them at auto parts supply stores - used in fuel systems for some vehicles. It needs only a very small ID ...


Here's the same VOES port put into the manifold for running my Mikuni ...





If you want more details on any of this please just ask.

 

great, thanks

I think this ignition will help me with this bike. I was riding it alot but have not ridden it much lately because it has not been running right. it will die if i twist the throllte too quickly, also die if it gets hot and wont restart till it cools off. Also its been shooting flames out of the air intake when i am trying to start it.

the other thing i need to do is work on the carb. An s &s super e. This carb is alittle frustrating to me. im not sure where to start. I saw some rebuild kits but they are close to 100$. Any suggestions on how to cheaply go though and clean this carb. I dont know much about carbs, most of my riding has been on fuel injected bikes.

I have another bike(newer) that i do most of my riding on, but want to get this bike running good.

The date on my instructions is 1/19/06

 

I am reading through the instructions now and the install seems pretty strait forward. I will post when i get a chance to sit down and work on it

 

Same date as mine.

I do not have any experience with S&S carbs, just with Keihin butterfly and Mikuni VM38-9.

The Ultima will certainly solve any ignition related problems.

The Mikuni is a similar experience - install, set up and forget. However, the good setup with the Branch Flowmetrics back plate is getting more difficult to find ...

I love my Mikuni VM38-9 because ...
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1576003

First StartUp w/Mikuni VM38-9
http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s....php?t=1567528

 

i have heard a lot of folks praise that mikuni for its simplicity.

With the mikuni, Would i have to get a new throttle cable? I dont have any air filter, just a small velocity stack with a screen.

 

Yes, a new throttle cable is necessary as is a new air cleaner assembly.

You can buy a kit that includes the Mikuni, a K&N filter and a throttle cable. The cable however is a "universal" cable. I think that means it does not fit anything. At least the uni cable is wrong at the handlebar end for our bikes. You would have to send it off to Barnett to have it modified. And the A/C assmbly sticks out pretty far ...

http://www.cycleworld.com/2014/05/01...d-shovelheads/

The best is the Branch Flowmetrics back plate with a 29036-66, 2" filter or an HD0200 K&N filter. However the 38 mm Branch back plates are getting quite scarce. If you find one ensure that it is 38 mmm and not the 22, 42 or 44 mm [or whatever else].

This one looks like it might be the right proportions for 38 mm. It would be a very worthwhile purchase if you might get the Mikuni carb one day, but you should contact the seller about the size ...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harley-Panhe...VWntB1&vxp=mtr

 

Before You crucify the S&S carb You have to fix the ignition. Flames out the carb are not the carbs fault. I've run S&S for years. They are pretty simple to deal with. If it was jetted properly at first, it should be problem free.

 

I agree with rydeer completely,have been running an s&s with zero problems too. That being said,just have to tyhank Mick for all his insights and help,we are lucky to have him as an adviser on here,your the best Mick.

 

rydeer and sasquatch 38

i want to take the s&s off and clean it and go through it alittle bit because before i bought the bike it sat for years. I got the bike running and started fixing it up but it never ran "great", I rode it around town for about a year that way. the last year it has mostly been in the garage sitting and i have been doing little things here and there but it hasnt been running much

any advise on cleaning this carb?