Hello, well so far what i've read on this forum has already helped so I joined up. Story is just bought my first Harley, and quite exited, Its a 73 xlh and im tearing it down, I got it cheap, probably cause of all the work i got to do so i hope you guys can help with tips. First thing i got to do is set the push rods. So if you guys got any tips on how to do it i would love it. I do have a manuel but just not specifice enough, i dont want to screw this up ya know, I am mechanical but never done any engine work on HD's, only outboard and small motor. so any help or tips will be awesome thanks.

I'll just start with that for now.

 

Welcome aboard czlarry.....
To adjust the push rods you do this:
Have the engine stone cold.
You will need (2) open end thin wrenches.
You will need (8) paper clips and (4) rubber bands.

To begin:
Remove the retaining clips at the top of each push rod cover tube. Use a large screwdriver to do this. Note: each cover tube has (3) cork washers. More on that later.
Collapse the covers. Take the paper clips and bend them into an S shape. Hook 2 clips together with a rubber band.
Now hook 1 clip under the push rod tube and the other hook to the rocker box top. This holds the tubes up and out of your way with the rubber band acting like a small bungi cord.
Do the other 3 tubes the same way.

Let's start with adjusting the rear exhaust pushrod clearance:
I like to put the bike on a stand with the rear wheel off the ground. I put it in 4th gear and remove both spark plugs. What this does is allow you to rotate the engine easily by using the rear tire. You do not have to do it this way, but I am just saying this is the easiest for me.
Rotate the engine forward until the front exhaust pushrod is at it's highest position. Now you can adjust that rear exhaust.
Loosen the lock nut and back off the adjuster bolt until the pushrod is loose.
Then turn the adjuster out until the pushrod can be just rotated using a single finger. Don't use 2 fingers, only one. The rotation needs to be free enough to rotate 360 degrees. Tighten the lock nut. Recheck the clearance again. If it has tightened up then you need to do it over again.
The remaining pushrods are adjusted in like manner. Remember, the same valve on the opposite cylinder being at it highest point of lift is the correct position to obtain adjustment on the valve you are concentrating on at the moment.

Now, let's cover the cork washers:
If the washers at the top or bottom look degraded (you cannot see the 3rd one because it sits in the middle of the cover) you should remove all 4 pushrods and install new corks.
To put things back together after the adjustment has been made is pretty straight foreword. The one thing to watch though, is that top cork washer on each pushrod tube. The tube has a flanged head and the cork sits in a recess in the rocker box cover. Easy to get the cork outside the recess and still button up the covers OK. The result is a massive oil leak, so I thought I'd warn you of that.
The clips get installed by taking a large blade screwdriver and sticking the end under a cylinder fin with the shank resting on the spring loaded cover. Push down far enough to insert the clip into the top section.
Got any questions just let us know...........pg

 

thank you for the advice. is the tire trick for finding top dead center on the piston stroke? And do you have any tips for breaking in a new top end? And one more question what is the stock size of the chain

 

Yes, the tire can be used to help move the engine to TDC, but mainly it makes turning the engine over an easy task and you have good control if it goes too far. Using the kick lever you cannot 'back it up' as you can with the tire.

I assume that you have had the top end done already? Or is it something that you want to do?
For breaking in a new top end I recommend this:
Run the engine at different speeds for 500 miles. This speed range is between 30 and 45 mph max.
Do not lug the engine or make rapid starts.
Let the engine warm up before you ride off. So stay off freeways while you pile up this milage.
What you are trying to do is get the piston rings to seat. If after 500 miles the bike is burning oil and smoking, the rings have not seated. This will cause you to have to remove the cylinders again and using 400 wet/dry paper sand a cross hatch pattern to the bores.

I assume you mean the rear chain?
Chain size is Diamond 148. This measures 5/8 inch center/center on the pins and 3/8 inch inside the links...........pg

 

Pulling the spark plugs out makes turning the engine over easier also when adjusting the pushrods or finding TDC. Oops, I see that you mentioned that already.