Rear chain & brake adjustment & tire pressure??
#1
Rear chain & brake adjustment & tire pressure??
Hello all. I finally got my 73 to run yesterday and when I went over it to be sure everything was o.k. I found the motorcycle shop had installed the rear tire backwards (Dunlop with directional arrow point in reverse). Took back and they corrected it. While there he asked how much air I wanted in the tire. According to the ORIGINAL owners manual it states FRONT = 24# and REAR = 30#. He looks at me and says that's old school you need to run more and then proceeds to put in what the tire label states as MAX COLD PRESSURE = 40#. I let it go there but am asking here. IS HE CORRECT? Or should I stick with the book recommendations??? I don't street race or any of that just used for riding hwy and city combined that's all. Second problem/issue deals with adjusting the rear drive chain. Once the wheel was reinstalled I tightened up the rear adjusters. I measured from the rear metal of the frame fittings to the end of the threaded adjuster and got both the same. When I spin the wheel the chain still doesn't seem to run exactly in the center. I don't see any other way to take measurements to be sure the wheel is centered in the rear frame tubes. Normal?? The real challenge though has been with centering the rear brake. I have followed the instructions but it still doesn't seem 'right.' Before tightening the rear brake bolt (NOT DISC brakes) the wheel spins freely. After tightening the wheel spins a bit then seems to hit a high spot then spins free again (I have the 1-1/2" downward pedal freeplay set). IF I let loose the brake hold down bolt again it spins free. If I didn't know better I would almost just hand tighten and let it "float" but I don't think that would be good. ANY ideas or please provide your 'method' of adjusting the rear chain and centering as well as setting the rear brake shoes. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give ya the whole picture..... THANKS....
#2
Regarding the air pressure in the tires......
You do not want to follow what is given in the manual (which was way back in 1973) and was meant for old style Goodyear tires.
When you mount modern tires you inflate them as per the ratings on the sidewall. In this case it is 40 psi cold. That is correct.
Regarding the chain adjustment and alignment......
Measuring the distance of each adjuster is a good way to get you in the ball park, but not the last word.
Take a sight down the top of the chain. It comes off the brake drum sprocket and heads for the counter shaft sprocket up front. Does yours look like it is straight. If the wheel is cocked in the swing arm frame, the chain offset will be very evident. If yours shows the offset kink, tighten (or loosen) one side or the other to align the sprocket faces. Now the chain is running straight, but you may have to readjust the proper tension. That will be 5/8 inch up/down movement on a new chain in the middle of the span.
Regarding the rear brake adjustment........
Try this: (you may need a helper)
Spin your rear wheel and jam on the brake with the pedal. Don't release the brake pedal.
Hold the pedal tightly down while you tighten the axle nut. This will 'center' the brake shoes inside the drum.
Then using the adjuster nut screw it in to your satisfaction.
If it drags after doing this procedure, either back off the nut a turn or two or simply run it as it is and the high spot will wear off.
pg
You do not want to follow what is given in the manual (which was way back in 1973) and was meant for old style Goodyear tires.
When you mount modern tires you inflate them as per the ratings on the sidewall. In this case it is 40 psi cold. That is correct.
Regarding the chain adjustment and alignment......
Measuring the distance of each adjuster is a good way to get you in the ball park, but not the last word.
Take a sight down the top of the chain. It comes off the brake drum sprocket and heads for the counter shaft sprocket up front. Does yours look like it is straight. If the wheel is cocked in the swing arm frame, the chain offset will be very evident. If yours shows the offset kink, tighten (or loosen) one side or the other to align the sprocket faces. Now the chain is running straight, but you may have to readjust the proper tension. That will be 5/8 inch up/down movement on a new chain in the middle of the span.
Regarding the rear brake adjustment........
Try this: (you may need a helper)
Spin your rear wheel and jam on the brake with the pedal. Don't release the brake pedal.
Hold the pedal tightly down while you tighten the axle nut. This will 'center' the brake shoes inside the drum.
Then using the adjuster nut screw it in to your satisfaction.
If it drags after doing this procedure, either back off the nut a turn or two or simply run it as it is and the high spot will wear off.
pg
Hello all. I finally got my 73 to run yesterday and when I went over it to be sure everything was o.k. I found the motorcycle shop had installed the rear tire backwards (Dunlop with directional arrow point in reverse). Took back and they corrected it. While there he asked how much air I wanted in the tire. According to the ORIGINAL owners manual it states FRONT = 24# and REAR = 30#. He looks at me and says that's old school you need to run more and then proceeds to put in what the tire label states as MAX COLD PRESSURE = 40#. I let it go there but am asking here. IS HE CORRECT? Or should I stick with the book recommendations??? I don't street race or any of that just used for riding hwy and city combined that's all. Second problem/issue deals with adjusting the rear drive chain. Once the wheel was reinstalled I tightened up the rear adjusters. I measured from the rear metal of the frame fittings to the end of the threaded adjuster and got both the same. When I spin the wheel the chain still doesn't seem to run exactly in the center. I don't see any other way to take measurements to be sure the wheel is centered in the rear frame tubes. Normal?? The real challenge though has been with centering the rear brake. I have followed the instructions but it still doesn't seem 'right.' Before tightening the rear brake bolt (NOT DISC brakes) the wheel spins freely. After tightening the wheel spins a bit then seems to hit a high spot then spins free again (I have the 1-1/2" downward pedal freeplay set). IF I let loose the brake hold down bolt again it spins free. If I didn't know better I would almost just hand tighten and let it "float" but I don't think that would be good. ANY ideas or please provide your 'method' of adjusting the rear chain and centering as well as setting the rear brake shoes. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give ya the whole picture..... THANKS....
#3
#4
Thanks for the reply. As to the brake adjustment. Do I/you tighten the brake shoe anchor bolt AFTER or BEFORE you tighten the main axle nut? I have tried both ways and it still didn't seem to make a big difference but I may still be doing something wrong. Thanks again..
Rotating the wheel and applying the brake while the axle nut is tightened is the proper way to do it.
It is not magic by any means and you may find it still drags slightly.
The cure for that is back off the adjuster nut or run it like it is and the high spot will smooth out.
pg
#5
I have been under the impression that the numbers on the tire are maximums for the tire, and not actual amounts to be used in any particular application. Now i am wondering ...
#6
The rating on the tire is the maximum and in fact the sidewall states the word "MAX" preceeding the psi rating.
My error...... I always keep mine inflated to the max and I should have said so, rather than saying this was the pressure you need to inflate the tires to.
pg
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