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hangman987...
I did not see that post. Now, just how did you get it hung in second? Have you just rocked the machine back and forth while putting pressure on the shift lever with the engine not running? Let me know and I can perhaps suggest something........pg
EDIT NOTE: I went and read your post and see your description of what happened. You may have a problem with a bent fork shaft and/or worn nubs on some of the gears. First or second most likely. Let me know if you get it out of second and then we can go from there.
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
i was riding it around the yard sat. and it jumped out of 1st gear a few times it would go right back in. today i rode it this morning it poped out once . i went to ride it this afternoon it poped out of first and would not go back in. so i put it in second and it will not come back out. i rolled it in my grage and tryed rocking it back and forth and it wont come out of gear. now the clutch wont disengage to make it free wheel. i feel nothing whin i push the shift lever up or down.
thanks
hangman....
OK, so it sounds like it is stuck in gear. No resistance on the shift lever means the cam plate in the tranny is not rotating. This may be, as I said earlier, the fork shift rod being bent, worn nubs on first or second gear(s) or a combination of both.
About all you can do is open it up for inspection to determine what needs repair.
How good are you with mechanical things and how equipped are you with tools? You will need an 1 1/2 socket and a 1 3/16 (or 1 1/4) inch socket to remove the clutch-primary chain-engine sprocket.
You will need a clutch spring compresser (I think) to get the clutch off. I have not worked on a dry clutch in quite a while, so that may not be needed. I can check.
You will have to pull the clutch hub, primary chain and engine sprocket as a unit.
You will need to pull the transmission sprocket off.
Next:
You will need to remove the transmission door. This removes the entire transmission attached to the door's backside.
Now you are ready to discover the problem.
There is a transmission door remover tool that I am certain you do not have. No problem, as I can tell you how to remove it without that tool.
Do you have a factory service manual? If not, I can provide you a copy of the transmission/clutch section in PDF form.
Let me know if you want to tackle this project yourself..................pg
Edit Note: I just checked and you do not need a spring compresser tool for removing the clutch, Scratch the 1 1/2 inch socket as well. However, there is a pin spanner (wrench) that you need to get the engine sprocket compensator nut off. This could be made if you have a few tools. The clutch hub will need a puller/installer. I can research this further to see if one can be fabricated without great effort. There is a tool required to lock the sprockets to prevent the engine from turning when you remove the trans and engine nuts. I have made my own several times, so no big deal there. Well, that's the update on what you will need. If you own a pre 1970 ironhead and plan on keeping it, these tools will be needed on an interim basis for as long as you have the bike.
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
thanks for the info pg . im planing on trying to fix it my self. im prety good with cars,and trucks. this will be my first motorcycle trear down. i have a 69 AMF manuel for the sportster that i got with the bike. if you can tell me about the tool fab i have many tools to fab with. thanks again pg. kavin
hangman.....
OK, now you have even more reason to pull things apart. The clutch and transmission share the same oil, so that means the primary side was dry as well. Damage will depend on how long it was run in this condition, but I would not panic yet.
Get it apart and inspect things inside using your service manual as a guide.
Also, if you have never pulled a Sportster apart before, pay attention to where things such as spacers, nuts and bolts and seals etc are at before you just rip it apart. Write this down, because you will have forgotten where things were by the time you get to the reassemble stage.
J&P Cycles is the place to purchase tools that you will need, as well as replacement parts. Some tools can be easily made in your shop, so use the J&P illustrations to see what these look like. That will allow you to determine if the tool would be cheaper to just buy rather than fabricate.
Also, all of the tools should be illustrated in your AMF service manual as well.
Your machine uses a dry clutch, so a lack of oil should not affect that. Be sure to not get ANY OIL on the clutch plates while you work on the machine. I am talking about the steel AND the fiber plates, as well as the inside of the whole clutch hub.
Check out J&P for a spanner wrench pt# 910-355 or 910-154. You will need one of these to get the engine sprocket off. The first listed can be made easily. The second one is the better wrench, but it cannot be made as easily.
J&P pt# 630-141 is another must have tool. This can be made even easier. I have made one out of two steel strap plates and two (cut and drilled) 3/4 inch diameter steel rods and then bolt all this together.
There is another version that does the same thing and is easier to make that the steel bolt up. Make it out of Black Delrin (plastic).
You simply cut the notches with a coupling saw. I have attached a jpeg here of the one I made. It is shown in the backdrop illustration in the photo on the right as a light grey block at the top of the engine sprocket on a Dyna. You wedge it in at the top of the engine sprocket to remove the shaft nuts. Wedge it in the top of the clutch sprocket to tighten the shaft nuts.
There are two more tools needed. A lock plate to lock the chain hub to the clutch hub. This is J&P pt# 630-025, or you make one out of two old clutch plates. The other one is OEM # 95960-52A, used to pull the clutch hub from the splined shaft. This tool may be made (and I cannot locate an after market puller yet.) All that stuff will get to removing the tranny door. We can deal with that later.
So, collect some of the tools you will need to get things apart. Pull the primary cover off and inspect the inside looking at the chain and pull the clutch bonnet off. Be sure to follow the service manual instructions to do this. It ain't rocket science, but at the same time you have to be carefull to not force anything that seems like it will not move.
After that we can pull the clutch and engine sprocket and primary chain as a unit. That is how it has to come apart.
Check back after you get this done and meanwhile, ask any questions you may have. If you are super lucky, the gears are hung because of no oil and gears may be just stuck on the shafts. Ditto for the cam plate..........pg
i called the guy i got the bike from he said he just drained the oil and did not put any back in (so he says) so it has only went around the yard a few times.(he drained it to change out the brocken starter bendix). i took the cover plate off the clutch and took out the clutch plated they are all oily and sticky. art they supose to be dry clutch plates? could this couse the problem? im going to hook the chain back up and rock it back and forth to see if it will pop out of gear now with the sticky clutch out. thanks again pg. kavin
p.s. the last owner said he it had not stuck in gear on him before.
oh yea when i would shift it into first gear the back tire would jump and spin a little. could this have contributid to the problem with the stuck gear?
kavin...
Well, not putting oil back in the trans is, at best, negligent.
When you pulled the primary cover, is there a bonnet over the clutch that has a gasket and attaches to the clutch chain hub with 12 small screws? This is a dry clutch. This is what came on your machine. If plates are oil soaked, then I expect it would will not be servicable (clutch). There is a small possibilty that the plates may be after market 'Barnett' that can stand some oil.
All Sportsters have clutch drag(not being fully disengaged) and cause the rear wheel to jump when you put it in 1st gear. Quite normal. This in no way is connected to the stuck in gear condition.
After hearing that there was no oil in the trans, I believe more than ever that the gears are stuck on the main shaft and/or the counter shaft.
Let me know if it goes into neutral after you get the chain on. We can go from there......pg
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Rolling down the highway on two wheels since 1957...
Owner Red/White 1971 XLCH & 2003 FXDL-Silver over Black
yes there is a cover with small screws . when i took it off there was some dry/sticky oil there . the plates are soaked with oil. i will have to get new ones now wont i ? it would not got into neutrel . so it started takeing it apart. i got it torn down. got the trany apart and found a small peice of metail in the bottom of the houseing (i will try to post a pict.) i do not konw what it came from? it isabout 3/4 of an inchlong with a curve and a squared off end that is thicker than the other end where it broke off. here is an atched pic. of the peice if you can help me ID it? thanks again PG i would have not goten this far with out all the great info. thanks kavin
69 xlh stuck in second gear
