If you really want her in the weeds, put 2" shorter fork tubes up front and move the shock mounts on the swing-arm back 1 1/2". If you use a jack under the bike you can play with how far to move the mounts to get the look your wanting. I did this to a FX recently it works great and won't effect the ride to much.

 

Pinion,
You did not speak out of turn. I did not have the manual at work so I looked at it when I went home. In the bottom of the box for the 16" wheel specifications was the word (accessory) [sm=bangbang.gif] meaning it was a factory option and did not come stock on any model. My manual covers 70 to 78 so I do not know about the later years. Tire size specified is a MT90-16T so that is 90% of 5" in height. The 18" wheel is 90% of 4 1/4" in height. The bare rim going from 18 to 16 would net 1" lower. The tire would net .675 inches, so changing the wheel and tire should net roughly 1 1/2". I could be wrong here (was before) but that is the way it appears to me.

 

Jep you are right I'm born 60's... and sure I have experience only newer ironheads starting 72 models, sure I have worked some older but I can't say that I know them...
But to back to topic... officially factory released 16" rear wheel on sportster at 1979 before that as option.
Standart was 19" front and 18" back

 

Hi all, I'm new to the group and this is my first post, I'm going to the 16 in. rear wheel on a 71 xlch, I read on this thread that the 16 will change my gearing as opposed to the 18. I'm good w/a lot of things on bikes but gearing is not my strong suit. I would be interested in any input on the gearing issue, will the original drum/sprocket fit on the 16 (I think it will) but will the wheel size affect the top or bottom end, and to what degree, for better or worse, thanks in advance.
Steve.

 

first off you dug up an 8 year old post the last time it was used

but you can expect around 3 to 5 hundred RPM difference road speed / rpm ratio

but you can up the trans sprocket one or even 2 teeth well as long as it the chain does not rub on the kicker cover and the bike will have less revs at the same road speed -

and welcome == johnjzjz

 

I do not have much experience with these tire sizes, but it seems to me that the difference in outside diameter of a 16" vs 18" is small, almost negligible, as the difference in profile of the corresponding tires mostly makes up for it.

It might make a small difference in the speedometer, which is not accurate anyway so it does not really matter, but i have not heard that it would affect gearing in any way.

I would say choose rear wheel size according to tradition or looks, and do not be concerned about gearing or speedometer issues as they are not significant.

You can certainly affect RPM at hiway speed by changing the front and rear sprockets. The most popular choice is 51 tooth rear and 23 tooth front sprockets. This combination results in a more comfortable hiway speed ride with good acceleration. Check out this HotXL article ...

https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...=folder%2c.jpg

 

as the bike is a 1967 no rear sprocket change with out going to disc brake

and when someone talks about a collectable - XLCH 1967 and i had one as a kid - i think about original flat bottom tires like the goodyears that i used as a kid and they did change the RPMs when replacing the 18 inch round tires of the day with a 16 flat bottom BTW -- johnjzjz