Hey y'all just got onto the forums today been cruising for a week or two now because I just picked up a 1971 XLCH Ironhead that had been sitting 16 years the guy I picked it up from never got around to doing what he wanted with it because he knocked up his old lady so he gave it up for pretty cheap to me since I'm a young buck and I've got the time, disposable income, and eagerness to get this beauty pack on the road. i was told the guy before had rebuilt the engine a year before this guy bought it then the tranny went so he rebuilt it but then set the bike for 16 years. its not up and running obvious not sure what i need to do to get it there was gonna start with the carburetor. I took a look inside the tank to see ithere appears to be sludge and what used to be gas not sure if cleaning it out is worth it or swapping it out for a new tank is the best bet? Just bought a carb rebuild kit and am gonna get that done this weekend see if i can get her to start. not very familiar with Harley's really but I'm a young guy and figured I'll learn as I go so any tips, tricks, and advice is extremely appreciated and welcome! Will try and post pics soon! Looking forward to making progress with the bike and to become a part of the Harley community!

 

Welcome to a very exclusive club.

Pick up a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and read it.

Here is a link to some very important info:

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...d.php?t=465866

perhaps this one:

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/s...ad.php?t=69876

would be a good place to start.

You have something great...take care of it...enjoy it.

s

 

I have been refurbishing my fathers '78 since early October and am loving every minute of it. Some Tips:

When rebuilding the carb save the old float needle, the new one may not seat well (I have this issue).

If your lenses for the gauges are foggy the headlight reconditioning kits they sell at autoparts stores are awesome.

I spent $100 getting my gas tank treated with Redkote at a radiator shop local to me. No specks of the completely rusted out tank have shown up in the gas, I think it works well.

Enjoy the project and the bike! Look forward to seeing pics.

 

Welcome! to the maddness. Good info in the posts above.

 

Welcome to the club! Just a couple of suggestions which you've probably heard a hundred time before. Before you start kicking, give it a full tune up (points/plugs/fresh oil/ new battery, that sort of thing). Pull the plugs out and ground them on the barrels and kick over the engine to make sure you have spark. Even if you treat or replace your tank (my suggestion is to just replace it, they're not that expensive), put a cheap fuel filter on the fuel line. If you have some Marvel Mystery Oil in your garage, put a cap full down each barrel before you stark kicking and try not to use starting fluid if you can help it. Have some Advil handy for your knee (I know, I know, your a sturdy young stud, but trust me on this, you and some form of asprin are going to become close friends). The key word in working on old bikes that have sat for any amount of time is PATIENCE! Workshop manuals are a must! Despite what all the "experts" tell you, old Ironheads are tough, reliable, and pretty darn quick bikes. And they attract a bit of attention. The newer riders that have those over-blinged road barges tend to sneer at your trusty steed, but the older more knowledgable guys that have been riding for centuries will give your ironhead the respect that it deserves. Best of luck to you and post a couple of pics for us to admire.

 

One more thing......there is a method to kick starting an ironhead that you really don't find on many bikes (maybe a Vincent or big single like a BSA Gold Star or Matchless). Slowly kick it down until you get to the compression stroke (when it gets really hard to push down on the kicker), then give it all you've got ALL THE WAY DOWN! Don't stop half-way or even most of the way down. ALL THE WAY DOWN! I know that may sound silly and you probably know all that, but I've seen guys get hurt or even thrown over the handlebars by chickening out mid kick. Again, good luck!

 

If you install one of those in-line filters then do not use the in-tank filter. Two filters in sequence will slow down the fuel flow too much.

 

If the bike has been sitting without being run in 16 years I suggest you do the following first before getting into the carburetor.
Look inside the oil tank. Is there any oil in there, or does it look to be a quart or two low?
The oil tank holds 3 qts of oil and if it is low the chances are very good that the missing oil is in the bottom of the crankcase.

A Sportster has a dry sump oiling system (the oil is kept in the tank, not in the crankcase) and sitting without being started can result in the oil draining into the base.
The 1971 also has what is called a transfer valve between the primary and the crankcase.
The oil drains down and fills the bottom end to the point that the oil level reaches the transfer valve.
The bike is on it's sidestand leaning left, so the oil flows through the transfer valve into the primary and transmission.

The primary and transmission share the same oil. You pour oil into the round cap hole and it goes to the transmission as well.
The correct amount of oil for the primary/transmission is 24 oz.

I suggest you drain all of the oil from the transmission and primary and refill with the proper amount and weight of oil.
That will be 60wt engine oil and the amount is again 24 oz.
Because of the transfer valve your bike uses the same oil in the engine and the primary/trans.
That oil is 60wt and I recommend you use Harley-Davidson brand oil.

On the bottom of the crankcase there is no drain plug to drain oil out of the lower end.
The lower end empties when you start the engine, sending oil to 2 different places.
The scavenger section of the oil pump returns oil to the oil tank and what it cannot handle is dumped out on your garage floor through the breather tube located on the right side under the generator. Those are the 2 places.

There are two drain plugs.....one to drain the primary and one to drain the transmission.
Here is a pic of my 1971 showing these two plugs.........



After you get this issue taken care of I think you are now ready to try to get it running.
If you drained 2 qts of oil out of the transmission pour new oil into the tank before trying to start it.
The carb is a good place to begin.
What kind of carb is on the bike.
The original was a Tillotson but someone may have installed another type/brand of carb on there. If it is a Tillotson then getting the bike started is most likely going to be a monumental task.
A Bendix is going to be a better carb. But, look and see what is on there.

After the carb is in shape the very next place to start fixing is the ignition system.
One you are getting wet spark plugs and fire to the spark plugs you have finally reached the point where you can get serious about cranking the old beast up.

I also agree with others who say get a factory manual before you start taking things apart.
Of course any question you may have can be easily answered by someone here on the forum but a manual is the first thing you want to buy.
Then buy the new gas tank if the one you have is rusty or filled with crud.
You may want to try getting it steamed out but a new tank is only $150 at most.
pg

 

Gotta love those 71s ! If you're lucky, it's close to original..... but regardless, congrats on the find.

So what carb is on it ? The original Tillotson ? If so, don't be looking for a float needle .....the Tillotson doesn't have one.

Anyway, post some pics & let's see your '71.

 

Thanks to all of you! Happy to say I'll be draining and changing fluids on the bike this week haven't had much time since finals are coming up. I appreciate all your advice and input! I have a feeling you guys are gonna be my saviors! Thanks again so much!

PS The carb on it is a bendix the guy i got it from tossed the tillotson.