I got a rebuild kit for my clutch...is the stock clutch a dry or wet clutch? It took off fine when no fluid was in it, but when I added fluid like my manual said my rpm would go up, but not much forward motion, a little. is it a bad clutch adjustment or did I screw it up by putting fluid into a dry clutch?

 

Last year for dry clutch was 1970. 1975 would be wet clutch. Do you have the factory service manual with the detailed clutch adjustment instructions? Correct fluid quantity - 24 oz or until it drips from the overflow bolt hole?

I'm not much experienced with clutch installation and internals so someone else will have to chime in.

 

ok thanks. I have the right fluid, so I will do another adjustment and see what is up. I appreciate it.

 

Like Mick said, you have to adjust according to the special procedure in the workshop manual, or it will not work. It is different from the regular way you adjust a motorcycle clutch.

 

I will again post this for your benefit, and that of others who need instruction on adjusting the ironhead clutch.....

Follow each step in order, please..........

1) Loosen the lock nut on the cable adjuster and run the adjuster into the primary cover until you have lots of free play up at the clutch lever.

2) Remove the plug on the center of the primary cover.
With a 13/16 socket loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjustment screw.

3) Turn the adjuster screw inward until it gets harder to turn. (It is now touching the pressure plate)
Turn the screw in an additional 2 full turns.

4) Now go back to the cable adjuster and screw it out of the primary cover. Watch the slack begin to disappear at the clutch lever.
Continue to turn the adjuster out until the slack is gone. Stop.
You want zero slack and zero load at the lever. Just a neutral no slack/no load adjustment.

5) Tighten the cable adjuster lock nut down.THIS IS THE LAST TIME YOU WILL TOUCH THIS ADJUSTER!So move on to the following steps........

6) Now go back to the clutch adjusting screw and turn it outward until it gets easier to turn. Stop.
Turn the adjuster back in until you feel it touch the pressure plate. Stop.
Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Notice this last step is what gives you the desired amount of slack up at the lever.

7) Carefully tighten down the lock nut on the adjuster screw without allowing the screw to move.
Replace the center plug in the primary cover and you are now done.

If it slips at all after this adjustment then you have worn clutch plates. And slippage means you need to look at replacing the plates. No other course of action is possible.
Let us know the results please.


pg