leaking front valve cover
#1
11-18-2012, 10:57 AM
#2
11-18-2012, 11:55 AM
First if it is a seep that can be simply wiped off rather than a leak that drips i would leave it until more serious work needs to be done.
IMO you must not be timid about adjusting the pushrods/valves. This must be done or at least checked every 2000 miles. It is simple enough. It is important for a properly running engine. Engine life will be seriously reduced if running with pushrods not correctly adjusted. I'll post the procedure, video and text.
The front rocker cover can be removed simply by removing the bolts. The rear rocker cover comes off only as an assembly with the cylinder head so it is more involved. If the rear is the concern we can post more detailed info.
Ironhead Push Rod Adjustment
Do this procedure with the engine stone cold. I usually do it first thing in the morning.
1. Remove the spark plugs. Remove A/C to make room to work.
2. Using a flat blade screwdriver pry the spring keeper off of each push rod; the bottom of the keeper pops out first, then the top. Alternately, use a 3/4" open end wrench to push down on the top of the spring retainer, then pry out the spring keeper with the screwdriver.
3. The lower push rod covers may be stuck tight against the bottom o-rings, but they can be loosened by pinching between thumb and finger [or carefully using a shop rag and a pliers] and twisting or rotating. Lift these up and secure each with a tall-S-shaped piece of 12 or 14 gauge household wire [not cable] [or a long piece of Plumbers solder such as 95/5 hooked over the rocker cover and under the push rod cover.
4. Jack up back end of the bike so that rear wheel is off the ground, shift to 2nd gear, rotate wheel until it clicks, repeat until you get to 4th gear. Now by rotating the rear wheel you are rotating the engine. Almost impossible with the plugs in; very difficult in lower gears.
5. To adjust a particular push rod, its valve must be fully closed [the valve spring is relaxed]. Valve position for a particular cylinder is determined by observing the corresponding push rod of the other cylinder. For example, when the rear cylinder intake valve tappet is raised [valve fully open, spring compressed], the front cylinder intake valve is fully closed, and the front intake push rod can be adjusted.
6. Check [and adjust if necessary] the push rods:
[a] use the rear wheel rotate the engine so that the rear cylinder exhaust push rod tappet is fully raised. The front cylinder push rod is adjusted correctly if it has no vertical or horizontal play, and you can just rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.
[b] to adjust if needed: hold the adjusting screw in place with a wrench; with another wrench loosen the split locknut. Then turn the adjusting screw using fingers only until the pushrod's ball end is seated in the tappet with a "slight amount of play". Then tighten further as follows:
Option 1: Adjust on the tighter end of the range: There should be no vertical or horizontal play, and you should be just able to rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.
Option 2: Adjust on the looser end of the range: Set the adjusting screw to finger tight so that you cannot turn the push rod between forefinger and thumb. Undo it a tiny bit so that it is just barely loose. Then loosen it 1 "side" for an exhaust or 1/2 "side" for an intake. "Side" refers to one side of the 6-sided adjusting nut.
EDIT: Experience here is that Option 2 is the better and most likely the correct choice.
[c] hold the adjusting screw in place with the one wrench; with the other wrench tighten the locknut.
[d] recheck the adjustment; it is common for the adjustment to go out as you do step [c], in which case [b] and [c] must be redone.
[e] repeat for the other push rods.
7. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push the upper push rod covers up, and seat them into the upper o-ring or cork washer.
8. Install the spring keepers, top end first, by prying them in under the bottom with a flat blade screwdriver.
IMO you must not be timid about adjusting the pushrods/valves. This must be done or at least checked every 2000 miles. It is simple enough. It is important for a properly running engine. Engine life will be seriously reduced if running with pushrods not correctly adjusted. I'll post the procedure, video and text.
The front rocker cover can be removed simply by removing the bolts. The rear rocker cover comes off only as an assembly with the cylinder head so it is more involved. If the rear is the concern we can post more detailed info.
Ironhead Push Rod Adjustment
Do this procedure with the engine stone cold. I usually do it first thing in the morning.
1. Remove the spark plugs. Remove A/C to make room to work.
2. Using a flat blade screwdriver pry the spring keeper off of each push rod; the bottom of the keeper pops out first, then the top. Alternately, use a 3/4" open end wrench to push down on the top of the spring retainer, then pry out the spring keeper with the screwdriver.
3. The lower push rod covers may be stuck tight against the bottom o-rings, but they can be loosened by pinching between thumb and finger [or carefully using a shop rag and a pliers] and twisting or rotating. Lift these up and secure each with a tall-S-shaped piece of 12 or 14 gauge household wire [not cable] [or a long piece of Plumbers solder such as 95/5 hooked over the rocker cover and under the push rod cover.
4. Jack up back end of the bike so that rear wheel is off the ground, shift to 2nd gear, rotate wheel until it clicks, repeat until you get to 4th gear. Now by rotating the rear wheel you are rotating the engine. Almost impossible with the plugs in; very difficult in lower gears.
5. To adjust a particular push rod, its valve must be fully closed [the valve spring is relaxed]. Valve position for a particular cylinder is determined by observing the corresponding push rod of the other cylinder. For example, when the rear cylinder intake valve tappet is raised [valve fully open, spring compressed], the front cylinder intake valve is fully closed, and the front intake push rod can be adjusted.
6. Check [and adjust if necessary] the push rods:
[a] use the rear wheel rotate the engine so that the rear cylinder exhaust push rod tappet is fully raised. The front cylinder push rod is adjusted correctly if it has no vertical or horizontal play, and you can just rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.
[b] to adjust if needed: hold the adjusting screw in place with a wrench; with another wrench loosen the split locknut. Then turn the adjusting screw using fingers only until the pushrod's ball end is seated in the tappet with a "slight amount of play". Then tighten further as follows:
Option 1: Adjust on the tighter end of the range: There should be no vertical or horizontal play, and you should be just able to rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.
Option 2: Adjust on the looser end of the range: Set the adjusting screw to finger tight so that you cannot turn the push rod between forefinger and thumb. Undo it a tiny bit so that it is just barely loose. Then loosen it 1 "side" for an exhaust or 1/2 "side" for an intake. "Side" refers to one side of the 6-sided adjusting nut.
EDIT: Experience here is that Option 2 is the better and most likely the correct choice.
[c] hold the adjusting screw in place with the one wrench; with the other wrench tighten the locknut.
[d] recheck the adjustment; it is common for the adjustment to go out as you do step [c], in which case [b] and [c] must be redone.
[e] repeat for the other push rods.
7. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push the upper push rod covers up, and seat them into the upper o-ring or cork washer.
8. Install the spring keepers, top end first, by prying them in under the bottom with a flat blade screwdriver.
#3
11-18-2012, 01:26 PM
#4
11-18-2012, 04:08 PM
You could try re-tightening the bolts, in case one has come loose. I have had this happen a few times.
I unintentionally over-simplified my response above. You do have to remove the steel oil line and the pushrods as these all go into the rocker cover. There may be other stuff to be removed such as the ignition coil or whatever else may be under the fuel tank.
I unintentionally over-simplified my response above. You do have to remove the steel oil line and the pushrods as these all go into the rocker cover. There may be other stuff to be removed such as the ignition coil or whatever else may be under the fuel tank.
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