Happy New Year all. 73 xlch,bendix,so i have the brass float. been having some leaks on back of float bowl,nearest to engine. height on float is right,doesn't seem to stick,tip on needle seems ok. dropped the float in a jar of gas. doesn't sink but hindge side of float is completely under gas. rest of float is almost under but it doesn't sink. left it in there for an hour.is this right or should it sit on top of the gas? thanks

 

I am not familiar with that carb or that float, but i think it should just float on top of the liquid. Hhmmmm, is the hinge side the heaviest? If you shake the float do you detect liquid inside of it? This last should be a definitive test.

See what others say.

 

The hinge side will sink even when the float is good. Its heavier there.
Had float problems on one of mine and just replaced w/new as IMHO gas gets in the float easier than water.
My float that was bad didn't sink for days so I thought it was good when I let it sit for just hours.

 

thanks,yes i would say the hinge side is heavier. i don't hear/feel anything inside of the float when i shake it. it just seemed to me that it floated oddly.
as i said before i keep getting leaking out of the back of the floatbowl.first thought was float sticking,then height,gasket prob.,now float itself. anyone think maybe i have a petcock prob? could the bowl b getting to much gas to fast? float shuts it off but getting more in the bowl than should be?

 

You mention a leak on the back of the float bowl. Seems vague. Based on your post I assume the leak is an overflow problem and not a bad or pooly fit gasket. If the mating surfaces are scratched enough they may never seal. So I'll leave it to you to make sure fuel is spilling from overflow and not seeping out of mated surfaces.

If you can't detect any fluid inside the float it should be good. Since you were having fuel problems prior to dissassembly you can rule out the float if dry inside. I've never tried putting one in a bowl of gas to see how it floats. Better would be to sink it (gently) by placing something on top and watching for air bubbles. Sinking it is also, more likely to detect a pinhole in the area "floating" above the liquid line.

If your float height is adjusted correctly and the needle and seat are clean and in good condition, it wouldn't even matter if you didn't have a petcock. The needle would be pressed into the seat and gas would be stopped. Make sure to clean the seat and needle thoroughly. I like the spray stuff and a toothbrush. I prefer using a new needle since one comes in the rebuild kit (with all fresh gaskets and o-rings).

Float height adjustments are tricky. Use your service manual and follow the directions with perfection as the goal. Then remember to be extremely careful with handling the carb during reassembly. Even turning it over in your hand too quickly can "readjust" the float bowl height. Once the bowl is full of gas again, the float height is more protected. But while empty it kind of flops up and down.

 

thanks, have gone over all of these things and they all check good. done alot of checking other forums. found this problem a couple of different times,with an interesting suggestion. people saying to ditch the float spring?? saying the spring causes the float to get hung up sometimes? seems to me it's there for a reason but? am going to give it a try tmorrow when i get a chance,have to change an alt. on a nissan truck first. i am not sure bout this but am at the end of my rope here.

 

I recall a discussion of this on the IronHead forum on XLForum perhaps a year or so ago. Might be worthwhile checking there if you have not already done so.

 

Sounds like a good test but if it works consider replacement with a new spring. Like you, I'm guessing it's there for a reason. And while I don't know the reason/s it doesn't keep me from guessing.

1) without a spring the fuel path won't stay open. with gas in the bowl sloshing and the bike running down the road bouncing, the needle will repeatedly slap up into the seat briefly interrupting fuel supply. whether that could cause a lean running condition I have no idea.

However, 2) the repeated bouncing of the needle into the seat is likely to cause damage to the needle and/or seat. at that point you'll never prevent the flow of fuel (same problem you have now) and will have to rely on the petcock when not running and trying not to idle too long while running.

 

Just what do you mean by 'having some leaks on the back of the float bowl nearest the engine?'

Are you saying fuel is leaking out of the carb and dripping down?
If that is what you are describing, I think the problem may be you have the float level set too high.

The float level is set by putting a 3/16 inch drill bit under the float on the side opposite the hinge.
Then bend the float tang to the point that holds the float in place after you withdraw the drill bit.

If you look on your carb you will see the overflow hole on the side next to the engine.
The bike sits on it side stand which makes the fuel level on the side close to the engine higher than on the side closest to the air filter.

A slightly too high float level setting is going to result in fuel weeping out the overflow hole.
This pic shows you where the overflow is located on a Bendix. At the pencil end.......



pg

 

@ piniongear,float is 3/16. did you see my description on how the float sat in the gas? what are your thoughts about that? tried with brick under kickstand today and still leaks. but w/o bowl on i can turn on the gas and stop flow when i raise float with my finger.