Need help with Ironhead build
#1
Need help with Ironhead build
Hey vintage sportster fans, I currently own a 2009 Cross Bones and want to build a Sporty bobber - not a rigid, I have back problems and wish to keep my spine as is. I am thinking - red wheels, flat black tins , white walls, suicide shift - you get the picture. Anyway I am looking at 70's era sportsters ( I know OMG-AMF- WTF) I am thinking 1975-1978 because they have left side shift for the suicide shift, and I am not interested in 79 and above because of the frame change and parts availability (of 79 stuff anyway).
I am looking for advice, what to look for on 75-78 sportsters - what were the common problems etc. are kickers more reliable than electrics? What carb should I run etc.etc.etc. Any advice is appreciated, I know you guys have a **** load of experience with these issues. Really like the whole sportster vibe from that era and they are getting harder to find - especially unmolested examples. Keep in mind I am looking at getting an ironhead that will convert (relatively easily) to a suicide shift!! Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
I am looking for advice, what to look for on 75-78 sportsters - what were the common problems etc. are kickers more reliable than electrics? What carb should I run etc.etc.etc. Any advice is appreciated, I know you guys have a **** load of experience with these issues. Really like the whole sportster vibe from that era and they are getting harder to find - especially unmolested examples. Keep in mind I am looking at getting an ironhead that will convert (relatively easily) to a suicide shift!! Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.
#2
Sounds like the beginning of a fun project. The 77&78 will be easier as they have a "true" left side shift. The 75&76 are right side shift setups with a crossover linkage; they do not shift as well.
Check out the Mikuni VM38-9 for a carb, especially if you want a kick start. These have a reputation of being a "one kick carb". All parts are current and readily available. You can find them on Amazon.com for about $100.
Any "common problems" on these bikes were taken care of decades ago. What you have to deal with now is the carnage done by years of previous owners. Depending on where you live you can get one for $1500 to $3500. It is easily worth an extra $1000 to get one that is still close to stock.
On first look original turn signals and instruments are a good sign; original paint - hard to find. Look for cracked/repaired cases on close inspection. A Title is an absolute necessity. Run away from any IronHead that does not come with obviously good paper.
There really is nothing unreliable about these bikes once you have gone thru the whole thing. You need to take a whole year to do that; at least a full Winter project.
Check out the Mikuni VM38-9 for a carb, especially if you want a kick start. These have a reputation of being a "one kick carb". All parts are current and readily available. You can find them on Amazon.com for about $100.
Any "common problems" on these bikes were taken care of decades ago. What you have to deal with now is the carnage done by years of previous owners. Depending on where you live you can get one for $1500 to $3500. It is easily worth an extra $1000 to get one that is still close to stock.
On first look original turn signals and instruments are a good sign; original paint - hard to find. Look for cracked/repaired cases on close inspection. A Title is an absolute necessity. Run away from any IronHead that does not come with obviously good paper.
There really is nothing unreliable about these bikes once you have gone thru the whole thing. You need to take a whole year to do that; at least a full Winter project.
#3
#4
That does not make a lot of sense to me.
Why not just buy a basket case and build that bike the way you want it?
That way, you save a good machine for someone else who does not want a chop job.
As you say, these machines are getting harder to find.
pg
#5
im gonna second pinion, i saved my current ironhead from a chop that had been done by the po, how about a early evo? wouldnt see why what you want to do would be any different on them,the kicker would be the only problem, i ride alot and do alot of poker runs etc, i am allways the only iron head rider there lol just hate to see them choped up
#6
Relax guys, I have been looking for two months and have not been able to find anything close to an unmolested Iron head, (thats not what I wanted) and the closer they are to original the higher the value. What I am looking for is something that is more on the basket case side of the spectrum (but I hope its still a runner). I just don't want someone else's problems with a bent fork, and poorly made rigid rear section some guy made out of spare angle iron. No - a nice previously (moderately) modified Iron Head will be what I will settle on and the purists won't have to get their panties in a bunch over loosing another unmolested example.
#7
So if I understand you correctly..... You want an unmolested Sportster....... so that you can then molest it (turn it into a bobber) and do a chop job on it.
That does not make a lot of sense to me.
Why not just buy a basket case and build that bike the way you want it?
That way, you save a good machine for someone else who does not want a chop job.
As you say, these machines are getting harder to find.
pg
That does not make a lot of sense to me.
Why not just buy a basket case and build that bike the way you want it?
That way, you save a good machine for someone else who does not want a chop job.
As you say, these machines are getting harder to find.
pg
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#8
They're out there brother. I picked up a 1970 that had a rediculous +10 springer on it for $400 with a title. Sold the front end and it basically funded my chopper build. Figure when all is said and done, I'll have a sick custom for around $1500! Hit the swap meets and don't underestimate the barter system. Good luck
#9
Wow, now that is an awesome find!!! Seriously everything I am looking at in Eastern Canada is between $3,000 and $4,000 - mind you all these bikes are low mile examples and most are in really good to excellent shape - but I really want something rougher so I don't dismantle a really nice survivor for my project. I need something soon so I may need to bite the bullet and dive in at these prices.
#10
Those are around here too. I basically only used the front half of the frame and the engine on this build. Everything else was a swap meet score or fabricated myself. Takes time and a serious imagination but I'm pleased with the results so far.IMG codes (for forums, boards)
Last edited by Rodeoklown; 04-27-2013 at 09:45 AM. Reason: Pic didn't come in