Hi all,

I need help. I have a situation with my clutch and was hoping someon could diagnose it. I have a 1974 XLH that i have not opened up the primary on. I just picked it up a few weeks ago and i am trying to get it running smooth. Here are the two scenarios.

I adjust the clutch and when i have the clutch lever pulled in and step it down into first, it starts to pull forward pretty aggressively. If i let the clutch lever out slowly it stalls.

-OR-

I adjust the clutch to the point where it no longer pulls ahead when i have the lever pulled in and step it down into first gear. When i release the clutch lever out completely, it does not move at all even with throttle.

Am i just not getting it dialed in right? Am i supposed to be adjusting this in 1st gear neutral? Here are my questions from the instructions i found on another forum. Thank you!

1) Loosen the lock nut on the cable adjuster and run the adjuster into the primary cover until you have lots of free play up at the clutch lever.

How much free play should there be? Should i be able to pull the lever all the way in?

2) Remove the plug on the center of the primary cover.
With a 13/16 socket loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjustment screw.

3) Turn the adjuster screw inward until it gets harder to turn. (It is now touching the pressure plate)
Turn the screw in an additional 2 full turns.

How hard is harder? should i turn in until it just slightly has friction or hard meaning till im having trouble getting it to turn?

4) Now go back to the cable adjuster and screw it out of the primary cover. Watch the slack begin to disappear at the clutch lever.
Continue to turn the adjuster out until the slack is gone. Stop.
You want zero slack and zero load at the lever. Just a neutral no slack/no load adjustment.

I adjusted this until the lever just reached the fully extended position. Is this correct?

5) Tighten the cable adjuster lock nut down. THIS IS THE LAST TIME YOU WILL TOUCH THIS ADJUSTER! So move on to the following steps........

6) Now go back to the clutch adjusting screw and turn it outward until it gets easier to turn. Stop.
Turn the adjuster back in until you feel it touch the pressure plate. Stop.
Now turn the adjuster screw out 1/8 to 1/4 turn. Notice this last step is what gives you the desired amount of slack up at the lever.

How do i know when it touches the pressure plate?


7) Carefully tighten down the lock nut on the adjuster screw without allowing the screw to move.
Replace the center plug in the primary cover and you are now done.

If it slips at all after this adjustment then you have worn clutch plates. And slippage means you need to look at replacing the plates. No other course of action is possible.
Let us know the results please. ]

 

Welcome to the wunnerful world of Ironheadery.
The procedure you outlined is the factory method per the manual, and probably via PinionGear, who I think is also a member on here.
To answer your questions:
1. Pretty much all the way into to the lever, or whatever you get when you screw the cable aduster all way into the primary case.

3. Turn it in until you feel it just contact the pressure plate, ie until it very first gets harder to turn than a loose screw. Screw it in by gentle finger pressure and stop as soon as it feels like it hit something.

4. Yes you adjust it until the lever is out in the position where it sits when riding down the road, with no noticeable slack or movement of the lever, but no tension on the cable.

6. Turn it in using two fingers, or a small screwdriver between two fingers. Stop as soon as you feel the screw come up against something and get even a tiny bit harder to turn.


If that doesnt fix it, a number of other things could be the problem.
Such as, worn or warped plates. Fubared clutch hub or basket. Fubared clutch basket bearing. Clutch hub loose on the shaft coming out of the gearbox (very common).
The three-ball release mechanism is also a common problem, with one or more ***** popping out of its slot, or the whole shebang coming loose in the primary cover.

Or it could be something simple like lubrication. For a 74 model you want to run the same motorcycle-specific oil in the tranny/primary as you use in the engine. The tranny/primary takes about 24 ounces of oil. 20/50 for cold weather, straight 50 for hot weather is a common choice.

 

I will give this a shot again tomorrow. Do I do all this adjusting in 1st gear or neutral? Thank you!

 

In neutral, with engine not running.

 

I just happen to be the guy who wrote what you are quoting regarding adjusting the clutch.

I list the procedure atep by step.
You need to do each step in the order it is written.

To review........
Run the cable adjuster on the primary case in until the clutch lever is halfway to the handlebar. Not a critical thing.

Loosen the locknut with a 13/16 socket and turn the adjustment screw in until it touches the outer plate.
NOW TURN THE SCREW IN ANOTHER TWO FULL TURNS.

Turn the cable adjuster out until all slack in the cable up at the lever is zero.
You want no slack at all and you want no load at all on the cable. Just a nice neutralcable.
NOW LOCK DOWN THE NUT ON THE CABLE ADJUSTER.
DO NOT TOUCH THIS ADJUSTER AGAIN. THIS IS CRITICAL.

Next, go back to the adjustment screw and turn the screw out (2 turns plus) until the screw feels loose (it no longer touches the outer plate. STOP.

Turn the screw back in until you feel it touch the outer plate. STOP.
Now turn the screw out 1/4 turn. STOP
You will see that the 1/4 turn out is what gives you the correct cable slack at the lever..

At this point use a hex head spark plug wrench to tighten the 13/16 lock nut down without allowing the center screw to turn.

A hex head spark plug wrench allows you to tighten the socket while holding the screw in place with a screw driver run through the center of the socket.

This is the correct way to adjust a Sportster of the vintage you have.
pg

 

I took apart the clutch and found that the chain adjuster was worn really bad and a screw that held one of the pieces in place was stripped. I also noticed the friction plates we dark brownish red and had chips on the friction material. I also stacked the drive plates and could see light between them so they were a bit warped. I ordered replacement Barnett friction and drive plates, outer drive plate, spacers(a few of them were roughed up), spring and chain adjuster. Now I just have to find the time to install all the new parts and go through the adjustments steps again. Hopefully with all these new parts it will run smoothly. Thanks for the help, I will let you know how it goes.

 

OK, worn friction plates and warped steel plates will result in a clutch that slips and one that cannot be adjusted correctly.

When you get the replacement parts be sure to wash all of the existing parts well with clean solvent.
Then install the new parts.

Before you do anything though, fix that stripped hole for the chain adjuster.
I recommend you do that using a Heli Coil.
The new parts should fix your clutch problems.
pg

 

So im not sure if it’s the clutch adjustment or not but when The bike is cold or not running the clutch cable adjustment is correct, once the bike warms up it’s popping out of first and the clutch cable has a lot of play. I shut the bike off and immediately the clutch cable feels great again??? Any suggestions on where to look next?

 

You may want to adjust your clutch properly (if the bike is an ironhead 1971 or later.
Here is the instruction to do that.....
"First the clutch release adjustment must be done.
1) Turn the cable adjuster at the primary case in enough to obtain a lot of slack in the cable at the clutch lever.
2) Remove the access plug at the center of the primary case.
3) Using a 13/16 socket loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting screw inward until it becomes harder to turn, then turn it in further (2 full turns). This disengages the clutch.
4) Adjust all play out of the clutch cable by turning the cable adjuster on the primary case. Stop when all slack is removed, but with no load on the cable.
5) OK, cable is adjusted properly. Tighten down the cable adjuster locknut.
6) Back to item (3)....This is called the clutch release adjustment. Back off that adjustment screw until it moves freely. Then turn it inward until there is no freeplay. Stop. Back out the screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten down the locknut.

pg

 

It's good to see you again, pg.

It's been a while.