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73 rebuild

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Old 01-19-2014, 10:17 PM
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Default 73 rebuild

I have a 73 xlch and I'm the original owner. 13,000 miles total. I completely dissembled the bike and am restoring to original. The bike was running a few years ago when I put it aside. I took off the rocker covers to polish. I'm debating whether to take off the heads and jugs to check things out. It would be nice to have the jugs sandblasted for painting but I could paint them while on the engine. There are no leaks at the side cases nor at the head gasket or jug gaskets. Should I leave well enough alone or just go ahead and strip the heads and jugs while the engine is out.

Before I make my final decision, I wanted to check the compression. I have the engine on my motorcycle jack and strapped down but it is to awkward to kick it over. Is there a better way to check compression. Does it make a difference that I have the rocker arms off and the valves are not opening and closing for the compression check? Just not sure what way I should proceed. Any thoughts?
 
Attached Thumbnails 73 rebuild-img_1888.jpg   73 rebuild-img_1889.jpg   73 rebuild-img_1892.jpg  
  #2  
Old 01-20-2014, 01:12 AM
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The motor needs to be assembled to check compression. At only 13,000 miles I wouldn't think you would need to tear into it unless you had noted some problem before you parked it.
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 09:47 AM
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from the pictures the condition is very good, as how it was stored possable even in a warm location --

you cant get away from rust and piston rings with the cylinder that the valves were open has some, a compression test will not show anything at this point - for sure it has valves and valve guides used in leaded fuel motors and with in a year of of normal driving it will have issues with the $hit gas we have today - the base gaskets are paper and age has a way of making them brittel so maybe see leaks as well maybe not, its a toss up - cam seal trans sprocket seal and an engine main seal would be a swap out in my shop not that big a deal - painting the top end will not be easy with it together --

just my take: good luck with it take your time dont miss anything and it will be a fun kick only start ride, had one my self when i was a kid lived on it -- jz
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
from the pictures the condition is very good, as how it was stored possable even in a warm location --

you cant get away from rust and piston rings with the cylinder that the valves were open has some, a compression test will not show anything at this point - for sure it has valves and valve guides used in leaded fuel motors and with in a year of of normal driving it will have issues with the $hit gas we have today - the base gaskets are paper and age has a way of making them brittel so maybe see leaks as well maybe not, its a toss up - cam seal trans sprocket seal and an engine main seal would be a swap out in my shop not that big a deal - painting the top end will not be easy with it together --

just my take: good luck with it take your time dont miss anything and it will be a fun kick only start ride, had one my self when i was a kid lived on it -- jz
the base gaskets are paper and age has a way of making them brittel
Are the base gaskets the jugs to the case?

engine main seal
You talking about splitting the main case?

The engine kicks over just fine. It's been stored in Arizona, no moisture!
I'm just not sure if I should tear into it while it is out or give it a try and see how she runs. Not sure what you mean about the valves and guides with the new gas.
Thanks for the input
Ranjet
 

Last edited by ranjet; 01-20-2014 at 10:26 AM. Reason: mistake
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:14 PM
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In 1973 gasoline was leaded and formed a protective coat on the valves and seats. The new gas is unleaded and also contains alcohol which can cause rust. Once you refinish the valves and seats they will not last as long with unleaded fuel. I would use a lead substitute to try and prolong their life.
I'm a firm believer in "Don't fix it if it's not broken." Put it together and run it.
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 05:36 PM
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plus one - i was making a comment on what may happen - you do not have to split or take very much apart with the seals i suggested - it will save you riding time and the hassel if you do them now - look up in the book it will show how and what you need to do to change them --

dont chase the base gaskets till they leak then you can do some mods at that time

Filthy Lucre - explained the valve guide issue better than i - and again its mods that you can put off -- in all the Antique bikes we restore we have the customer use 2 stroke Synthetic oil 50 to 1 is fine -- all the time in the fuel - it will keep the engine alive a lot longer than anything else out on the market today -- johnjzjz
 
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:00 AM
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Default 73 rebuild

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I'll put the rocker boxes on and run it and see how it goes. If I have to strip the heads for any reason, I can do that with the engine installed. It only has 13,000 miles and was running alright. I'll let you know how I progress. I'm painting the tins today!
Thanks,
Ranjet
 
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:34 PM
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Default Remove jugs and paint

I would suggest that you remove the jugs, it really doesn't take much work. Then you can inspect the rings pistons and valves, change the base gaskets as already suggested, and paint them puppies so they really look good. Be sure to use new head gaskets. If you don't you will probably regret it later when you have to start again because the base gaskets leak. Just my opinion... good luck
 
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