So I'm redoing the clutch assembly in my '41 as the trans has to come out. It has the steel plates with the buffer assemblies or anti-chatter plates as they are called. One old mechanic told me he runs the straight plates as the buffer assemblies tend to come apart causing damage. Bruce Palmer recommends the buffer assembly plates and I was just wondering what everyone else is running. I'm not the seasoned HD mechanic and am learning as I go preferring to do my own work. What is everyone else doing? I will most likely do what Mr. Palmer recommends unless someone else has some good info.
Thanks, John

 

I've never had a problem with the buffers. Just make sure they are tight to the disk and the they are not bent as to lose the ball and spring.

 

+ one on using the buffers - things to look for - the posts on the clutch hub ditch wear // the clutch discs want to slide freely in and out no draging at all ( mod the Holes ) - in some cases you need to replace the hub posts we up date them to 5 nut attachments if we do that -- the small ***** in the hub were prone to biting into the clutch shell and the hub some damage is ok New rollers are a must in USA only - the foot unit seperates the clutch way more then the lever type so draging in speed is usually not an issue - the original nut has a felt in it with a clip and a tin shield you can re use it or up date the nut to the seal type but use the green grease from 2 guys garage - its the best in the USA for older bike stuff as it sticksss to everything 0-- did i say it sticks to everything it does --

whats up with the gear box ?? third gear is noizy or is it just leaking way to much -- original 4 th gear had no small center seal between the main shaft and the hi gear bushing -- we up date that even on a resto its not worth all the oil leaking all the time once it wears in from driving - some have us belt drive the clutch assembly for the oil issue is too much to deal with all the time

 

Thanks gentlemen, I'll be staying with the buffers. John, it has the 3 finger hub and only one finger has just a slight groove in it. The friction discs have some elongation and are pert near wore out so it was a good time to redo. New plates and discs coming up. It has shifted like butter since I've owned it but a few weeks ago started leaking like a sieve at the sprocket shaft. PO ran 90w gear oil in the trans which is a no no I've been told. Guess he sold it just in time, haha. It's ok as it's giving me a chance to learn all I can about my Knuck. I've been a car mechanic and was an aircraft mechanic for a stint but wish I had delved into Harley's much earlier. Had many motorcycles to work on but there is tons to learn on HD's especially old stuff. Bruce Palmer and others on this and different sites have been very helpful.

The thought of going to belt drive has crossed my mind but I'm trying to keep it as original as possible. Original color was flight red but the paint is still in too good of shape to redo, maybe down the road as the tank sealer is giving way a bit.

 

just finished friday a 47 i did the mechanicals its black in color he spent a fortune on all the little things - and i took in a 46 knuck chopper motor totally trashed by some jerkoff in a shop the tightened the crank pin to late shovel torque and it pulled the crank pin right through the tapers and beat the block to death as the wheels came un true - the other is a 41 chopper knuckel has a mag timing was off and the carb was lean it melted the rear piston and filled the motor with alloy bits what a mess

you did good on the wheel repairs - if i were you being a wrench do it your self you know the right deal - i might be able to help with a trick or two so do it your self dont bring it anyplace - ask

its all about the oil issue if the spot you drive in and out is not an issue with the oil then fine if you start leaving a trail then you know what you have to do

the leak is the hi gear - need to strip the trans to the screws - a guy makes a special spacer ring with an o ring to stop oil leaking across the splines saddlebagrail on flea bay is his call sign - if you buy a andrews hi gear the groove is in it and works like his race with the o ring - i have those rings in stock if you need one - i would just buy a hi andrews gear its a better deal all around it comes with the inside seal and the o ring groove

leave the hub alone dont do anything if that is all it has done --

good luck dude -- jz

 

John, the clutch discs are almost worn out so time for new, also the clutch hub fingers got some nice wear grooves in them so I'm gonna replace it. Didn't really see how bad the wear was until I took it out. It was converted to the roller bearing type so there's no real wear to the drum. It wasn't grabbing or anything but since it's apart, let's do this right. Does it really need to go to a 5 post hub? The 3 post seems to work just fine. I obviously don't race it, I ride all year long but it's my secondary ride so not lot's of active duty.

 

the 5 stud helps the hand clutch out - the foot clutch has so much more movement no difference is seen driving it

police duty discs is jerky in traffic foot clutch - i have used the kevlor - and the red alto in restos and they work well - you can convert it away from the 3 and a 1/2 set up for a 5 if you want as it last longer in service

 

Got everything back together finally and on the road Saturday. Lots of adjusting to get the shift linkage spot on. SM says to set in neutral and check with 1st and 2nd gears. I found the way to get it dead on was to set neutral and check 2nd and 4th with lots of small adjustments. New rear drive chain splattered lube goop all over even after wiping it before install. Gonna try the Bel-Ray super clean chain lube and see how that works. Glad I don't have whitewalls............

 

Took apart the clutch to check everything and found this. It's an Alto plate and didn't last 200 miles before part of the buffer assembly sheared off and the ball came loose. Pretty disappointing really, the old ones were in there for over 20 years with no problems. It has to be poorer quality metal used, they just look cheaper and less beefy that the old ones.

 

Like most after market parts, they are not made to the same quality as OEM parts. To fail after only 200 miles is unacceptable.