I just acquired a 47 knuckle that was recently rebuilt and I've only taken it out on a couple of short hops because the weather has been soo poor. It smells like it's running hot and the rocker boxes are sizzling after a warm up and 20 miles. However, the oil in the tank isn't very hot at all. It's definitely warmer than air temp but you can dip your finger in it and it just feels warm. I opened the fitting where the oil line feeds the rear rocker box, fired it up and it's getting oil up there. There is no engine noise. Do I have a cause for concern or is this just the way that machine oils? By comparison, I could barely touch the oil tank of my wife's twin cam after the same ride. I appreciate the help guys. If it matters, the rides have been in 50 degree weather.

 

to me it sounds lean in its fuel mixture -- but i have a couple questions

is the oil soapie looking in the tank after its running -

do you still have the total loss system working < belt drive in the primary maybe -

what are you adding to the fuel that has no lead in it the engine design requires -

Does it have the stock oil pump ??? what oil are you using 50W 60 W or something else and does it have Zinc in the oil, it must say right on the bottel it has zinc to have it -

do you have the workshop books parts and service < the guys are very helpfull but you need to know exactly what the parts are called and have OEM numbers so every question and answer can be on the same page --

your twinkie is a full flow oiling system it is also the engines control for temp - the knuckel oiling system is to lube the moving parts and just about does that with the stock pump

 

Alright, here's what I know... 47 FL with S&S wheels to make it 80". There is a belt drive primary and the oil filter appears stock harley but I don't know the year of it. I was told that the valves were reworked so that a fuel additive isn't required. The former owner said that he had a synthetic oil blend in it but I don't know the specifics. The motor has been built and sitting around for a few years and they put it into a frame last year, rode it a little bit and now I have it. It hasn't been broken in yet, the rebuild has about 250 miles on it and I was about ready to change the oil with straight 50 weight. Pipes are bluing already and it is running a S&S super B carb. The oil in the tank is not soapy or frothy and I don't have a manual for it yet. I haven't even put my own fuel into it yet, it's that new to me.

 

I was told that the valves were reworked so that a fuel additive isn't required

he is etheir stupid or inept or both -- you must run Marvil mistry oil in the fuel 2 oz at a fill up or you can use syn 2 stroke oil at 50 to one

OIL --- DRAIN what ever they put in it as a syn blend could be ultma syn blend and that fine but never in a new motor it will cause problems - run a straight 50W oil i use lucas in all the shops antiques / caution aircraft oil is for airplanes, in the 30s they used it but today is not the 30s

More questions -- what jetting is in the S&S - low speed and hi speed my guess 295 low 72 or 74 main -- you have take the bottom bowl off and look --

you need to keep a journal of everything you do and change, if you need to back track you have the spot you started from

no froth
---- But what oil pump a picture is worth a thousand words, my guess its an alloy unit not the cast iron it came with but you need to confirm

the cylinders are they OEM or aftermarket - picture of the numbers will help my guess they are aftermarket

take the timing plug out and look in as you turn the motor counterclockwise and a series of numbers and letters will apear and that will tell us what size stroke it has, so we can have a real idea what they did

 

Johnjzjz, I'll pull the carb bowl off Wednesday night and read the flywheels then too when I have an extra arm to turn it. I did drain the oil and change the filter Sunday. Incidentally, the oil tank on it has the filter built into it. I pulled all the oil lines off including the ones that feed the rockers and all are open. I idled it for about 30 minutes and really watched it. The new 50 weight oil cycled through and A thermometer in the oil read 120 degrees after about 1/2 an hour. It's seeping a little oil between the head and cylinder in the rear and a little right onto the top of the front head. I think that the smell and little bit of smoke lead to my initial concern. I'll get some of that Marvin mistry oil, 2 oz for a 3.5 gallon tank, aye?. I'll see if I can upload the picture of the pump but a magnet sticks to it, can't be aluminum. I'm also thinking that if I'm observing a little seepage from the top end, that she's getting oil up there.

 

you really dont want to idle an old bike especially one with iron cylinder heads and jugs that migh be the reason it started leaking

1 --- re torque the heads and jugs before you start it again

2 -- you do have an iron original pump and they work well if the gearing is in good shape and if its leaking in the top end it is Maybe ok --

3 -- you said you do not have any books so trying to explain how to adjust the carb as it is adjustable both idle jetting and high speed wont work as you will not get it

4 -- i would hold off till you get a copy of a factory service manual and do some reading on tuning it

5 -- understand this it is going to be a work in progress to own and drive a knuckel you might love it or you might hate it - i do not know what state your in but the chances of knowing a bike shop THAT actually knows anything about a knuckel is almost impossible
to find - if you dont see one when you are told they work on them WELL they dont --jz

 

John, the numbers on the flywheel are G 1647-SE D. The cylinders aren't stock and the best I can tell, the makings on them are ZEL F85. Might be 7EL F85 though. I ordered new manifold o rings and clamps and got a bottle of the Mystery oil. I don't mind tinkering it, and I'm sure that I'll love it. I'm in Illinois, just south of Joliet. I appreciate all the advice.