Octane rating opinions?
#301
02-24-2017, 03:09 AM
Moderator
I make my own 120 Octane gasoline from an oil well at my ranch. I was doing 140 mph on the dragon with lean angles of over 70 degrees when, believe it or not, a Tri Glide came under me on a bend and disappeared into the distance. This thread is the best bed time reading for ages.
120 Octane from drip gas???? Now that's stretching it..... But I do believe the part about the Tri Glide ! LMAO !!
#302
02-24-2017, 06:04 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
#303
02-24-2017, 08:25 AM
I make my own 120 Octane gasoline from an oil well at my ranch. I was doing 140 mph on the dragon with lean angles of over 70 degrees when, believe it or not, a Tri Glide came under me on a bend and disappeared into the distance. Hang on was I riding the dragon or chasing the dragon? This thread is the best bed time reading for ages.
PS What's the best oil to use in my M8?
PS What's the best oil to use in my M8?
Neither a 2 wheeler or a TG can do 70mph in a turn on the Dragon, but a trike can take a turn (not a curve) faster then a 2 wheeler. A stock TG faster on a straight away = no way!!
Best oil? = Any brand name 20/50 motorcycle specific oil (dino or syn) will work just fine. But according to H-D, "ONLY" H-D specific oil or diesel oil is acknowledged.
mjwebb, you do that too!? I thought I was the only one to do that. Unfortunately I was only able to get 91 octane.
What do you eat to get 100??
Last edited by GARY DYER; 02-24-2017 at 08:28 AM.
#304
02-24-2017, 08:37 AM
Seasoned HDF Member
Well, I don't believe either story.
Neither a 2 wheeler or a TG can do 70mph in a turn on the Dragon, but a trike can take a turn (not a curve) faster then a 2 wheeler. A stock TG faster on a straight away = no way!!
Best oil? = Any brand name 20/50 motorcycle specific oil (dino or syn) will work just fine. But according to H-D, "ONLY" H-D specific oil or diesel oil is acknowledged.
mjwebb, you do that too!? I thought I was the only one to do that. Unfortunately I was only able to get 91 octane. What do you eat to get 100??
Neither a 2 wheeler or a TG can do 70mph in a turn on the Dragon, but a trike can take a turn (not a curve) faster then a 2 wheeler. A stock TG faster on a straight away = no way!!
Best oil? = Any brand name 20/50 motorcycle specific oil (dino or syn) will work just fine. But according to H-D, "ONLY" H-D specific oil or diesel oil is acknowledged.
mjwebb, you do that too!? I thought I was the only one to do that. Unfortunately I was only able to get 91 octane.
What do you eat to get 100??
#305
02-24-2017, 09:55 AM
Stellar HDF Member
No I don't. In cold weather the engine take a lot longer to warm up to normal operating speed and the oil is a bit thicker in the beginning so it takes more fuel to go the same distance. When I check my mileage book, all the winter time driving I get is 4 to 5 mpg less then I get in the summertime - - every year it's the same. Cold engine/oil takes a toll on the engine in the winter. It's not ALL due to the blend, but yes that does contribute a little.
I understand the concept of colder air making the engine run better, but like me, it takes a little longer to get up to speed in cold weather.
I understand the concept of colder air making the engine run better, but like me, it takes a little longer to get up to speed in cold weather.
So I should get closer to summer mpg using winter brew than say, someone in South Dakota due to weather being colder on average during a typical winter.
However, since we use multi grade (i.e.:10w-50 or 20w-50) it pours like 10wt.
Not much resistance in 10w oil.
Fact is, I see as much as 5-7 mpg due to the winter swill.
Maybe some Midwest/Eastern riders can share their winter mpg experiences?
As far as cold air making the engine run "better".
I define better as better torque, better hp, better response, and better mileage as measured by multiple sources both from on road as well as lab tests.
The more efficient a given engine runs the better the mileage for the same set of conditions.
An engine running in 65deg/20%hum will produce better mileage than an engine running in Florida @ 85deg/80% hum.
So, the reason you get worse mileage during winter months is, in fact, caused by fuels with less energy than in the summer so you will see similar results every year. Many, many riders report here as well as other forums the same reduction (4-6mpg) in mileage in any area that has summer and winter brews.
ICEs always run best (most efficient/best mpg) with cold, dense air. Warm, thin air, always causes sluggish power by comparison.
Bob
#307
02-24-2017, 04:23 PM
So you're blaming cold weather causing fewer miles per gallon because the engine has to deal with cold thick oil.
So I should get closer to summer mpg using winter brew than say, someone in South Dakota due to weather being colder on average during a typical winter.
However, since we use multi grade (i.e.:10w-50 or 20w-50) it pours like 10wt.
Not much resistance in 10w oil.
Fact is, I see as much as 5-7 mpg due to the winter swill.
Maybe some Midwest/Eastern riders can share their winter mpg experiences?
As far as cold air making the engine run "better".
I define better as better torque, better hp, better response, and better mileage as measured by multiple sources both from on road as well as lab tests.
The more efficient a given engine runs the better the mileage for the same set of conditions.
An engine running in 65deg/20%hum will produce better mileage than an engine running in Florida @ 85deg/80% hum.
So, the reason you get worse mileage during winter months is, in fact, caused by fuels with less energy than in the summer so you will see similar results every year. Many, many riders report here as well as other forums the same reduction (4-6mpg) in mileage in any area that has summer and winter brews.
ICEs always run best (most efficient/best mpg) with cold, dense air. Warm, thin air, always causes sluggish power by comparison.
Bob
So I should get closer to summer mpg using winter brew than say, someone in South Dakota due to weather being colder on average during a typical winter.
However, since we use multi grade (i.e.:10w-50 or 20w-50) it pours like 10wt.
Not much resistance in 10w oil.
Fact is, I see as much as 5-7 mpg due to the winter swill.
Maybe some Midwest/Eastern riders can share their winter mpg experiences?
As far as cold air making the engine run "better".
I define better as better torque, better hp, better response, and better mileage as measured by multiple sources both from on road as well as lab tests.
The more efficient a given engine runs the better the mileage for the same set of conditions.
An engine running in 65deg/20%hum will produce better mileage than an engine running in Florida @ 85deg/80% hum.
So, the reason you get worse mileage during winter months is, in fact, caused by fuels with less energy than in the summer so you will see similar results every year. Many, many riders report here as well as other forums the same reduction (4-6mpg) in mileage in any area that has summer and winter brews.
ICEs always run best (most efficient/best mpg) with cold, dense air. Warm, thin air, always causes sluggish power by comparison.
Bob
Absolutely, you get lower mpg in the winter then the summer.
How do you explain getting worse mileage in the winter back in the 60's/70's before there was winter/summer blends or even 10% ethanol??? Don't forget bearings and wheels don't turn as freely when cold until they warm up. All that adds up to a drag on mpg. It's NOT ONLY the fuel mix.
I remember starting in the winter and the car would move slowly at first until it warmed up and the trans seemed to take forever to shift when it got real cold.
#308
02-24-2017, 04:34 PM
Seasoned HDF Member
#309
02-26-2017, 10:52 AM
Stellar HDF Member
Absolutely, you get lower mpg in the winter then the summer.
How do you explain getting worse mileage in the winter back in the 60's/70's before there was winter/summer blends or even 10% ethanol??? Don't forget bearings and wheels don't turn as freely when cold until they warm up. All that adds up to a drag on mpg. It's NOT ONLY the fuel mix.
I remember starting in the winter and the car would move slowly at first until it warmed up and the trans seemed to take forever to shift when it got real cold.
How do you explain getting worse mileage in the winter back in the 60's/70's before there was winter/summer blends or even 10% ethanol??? Don't forget bearings and wheels don't turn as freely when cold until they warm up. All that adds up to a drag on mpg. It's NOT ONLY the fuel mix.
I remember starting in the winter and the car would move slowly at first until it warmed up and the trans seemed to take forever to shift when it got real cold.
Remember back in the 60's we ran straight weight oils for the most part. 90w-140 in the diff, and nice thick gear oil 80wt in the tranny.
With today's synthetics we no longer need to warm the lube oils before driving a vehicle as you did in the 60's/70's.
There are emmisions regs that stipulate standards for pollution while warming.
The lube oils must not drag down the engine creating more emissions.
Warming a car or truck is no longer stipulated in owners manuals.
Today's lubricant, metal, and machining technology is much different today than back in the "good ole days". For this reason the old school thinking, for example, no longer works for engine breakin procedure due to fuel and timing mapping that is completely unforgivable as compared to a carbed engine where the engine has the ability to pull more or less fuel from a jet.
Always best to breakin a fresh build on a dyno where everything is monitored and can be recalibrated for safe running...then give it to owner to enjoy.
Just the way I see it I guess,
Bob
#310
02-27-2017, 11:09 AM
I guess referring to what you remember over 40 years ago driving/riding very crudely fueled vehicles with carburetors running much less adulterated AND leaded gasoline is scientific enough for you?
Remember back in the 60's we ran straight weight oils for the most part. 90w-140 in the diff, and nice thick gear oil 80wt in the tranny.
With today's synthetics we no longer need to warm the lube oils before driving a vehicle as you did in the 60's/70's.
There are emmisions regs that stipulate standards for pollution while warming.
The lube oils must not drag down the engine creating more emissions.
Warming a car or truck is no longer stipulated in owners manuals.
Today's lubricant, metal, and machining technology is much different today than back in the "good ole days". For this reason the old school thinking, for example, no longer works for engine breakin procedure due to fuel and timing mapping that is completely unforgivable as compared to a carbed engine where the engine has the ability to pull more or less fuel from a jet.
Always best to breakin a fresh build on a dyno where everything is monitored and can be recalibrated for safe running...then give it to owner to enjoy.
Just the way I see it I guess,
Bob
Remember back in the 60's we ran straight weight oils for the most part. 90w-140 in the diff, and nice thick gear oil 80wt in the tranny.
With today's synthetics we no longer need to warm the lube oils before driving a vehicle as you did in the 60's/70's.
There are emmisions regs that stipulate standards for pollution while warming.
The lube oils must not drag down the engine creating more emissions.
Warming a car or truck is no longer stipulated in owners manuals.
Today's lubricant, metal, and machining technology is much different today than back in the "good ole days". For this reason the old school thinking, for example, no longer works for engine breakin procedure due to fuel and timing mapping that is completely unforgivable as compared to a carbed engine where the engine has the ability to pull more or less fuel from a jet.
Always best to breakin a fresh build on a dyno where everything is monitored and can be recalibrated for safe running...then give it to owner to enjoy.
Just the way I see it I guess,
Bob
So it's not just the blend.
Just a side note, Saturday it was in the 20's. When I went for a drive, the car was pretty sluggish for about 3 or 4 blocks. That's first hand experience. Also on Sunday I took the bike for a brunch ride (like I do every Sunday), it was in the 30's, it took at least 5 minutes to get up to normal temps - no way would I blip the throttle during that time like I would if it was summer. I use 10/40 syn oil during the winter.
BTW. what part of the country do you live in?