Road King 12" Aftermarket Apes w/ Stock Cables/Wires?
#1
Road King 12" Aftermarket Apes w/ Stock Cables/Wires?
Anybody swap out stock bars for 12" mini apes and keep existing cables/wires? I just received my Khrome Werks 12" Bobber Style Apes, and they look like they might fit, but I'd rather not try if they won't. I don't want to scuff up the bars when I know the 10" will definitely work. And if it's a matter of needing to cough up the cash for new cables, I'm not going to do it for a $68 set of 1" bars.
I've read through a few old posts about this topic, but it's inconclusive. Some for and some against. If someone has done it on a new RK, that would alleviate any concerns with trying.
I've read through a few old posts about this topic, but it's inconclusive. Some for and some against. If someone has done it on a new RK, that would alleviate any concerns with trying.
#2
I just spoke with a rep at Wild 1 about this the other day. According to the gentleman I spoke with, their 12" apes might not work. He stated that the WO502's have just enough extra width, and extra pullback when compared to the stock RK bars to stress the wires or cables on some bikes.(interestingly not all - which I suspect is dependent on where slack was left during the wiring process at the factory) He made it clear that he could speak for their bars only. He did also confirm that the WO515's are a direct bolt on replacement for the RK that require no new cables or wires.
I had 502's on my previous Road King, a 2009, and I loved them! They were quite expensive to put on however. When I asked him how the 515's compare to the 502's in general ergonomics, he said, "It will feel almost exactly the same, but like riding with the backside of your hand touching the bottom of your grips on the 502's." I think I can live with that, and they may even be more comfortable on long rides, so I am going with 515's.
I had 502's on my previous Road King, a 2009, and I loved them! They were quite expensive to put on however. When I asked him how the 515's compare to the 502's in general ergonomics, he said, "It will feel almost exactly the same, but like riding with the backside of your hand touching the bottom of your grips on the 502's." I think I can live with that, and they may even be more comfortable on long rides, so I am going with 515's.
#3
Thanks, Fatarrow! That tells me what I need to know, even though I'll most likely go with Khrome Werks 10" Bobber Apes. They're not as wide and have half the pullback, so they'll fit without issue. I want to ensure I can still route the cables through the headlight nacelle for a clean look.
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flhrbill (01-10-2020)
#4
After all the bouncing back and forth between re-using stock cables or paying the toll for taller bars, I pulled the trigger on the 10" Khrome Werks Bobber Apes. They'll give about the same look as the Road King Special bars, which I'm good with. Saving the $600 on cables and labor is what attracts me most to this option.
Will probably still have Harley install the bars, though, because I don't want to mess with de-pinning the connectors. I still have nightmares about going through all of that with my Blackline a few years ago. Almost ruined the connectors and pins trying to get things removed.
I figure since it's just a bar install without cables and the bleeding of lines, etc., and the fact that I've already got the headlight nacelle and accompanying pieces removed for them, it shouldn't take much more than an hour. I'll confirm this with them beforehand so I don't get a Harley invoice surprise when they're finished.
Will probably still have Harley install the bars, though, because I don't want to mess with de-pinning the connectors. I still have nightmares about going through all of that with my Blackline a few years ago. Almost ruined the connectors and pins trying to get things removed.
I figure since it's just a bar install without cables and the bleeding of lines, etc., and the fact that I've already got the headlight nacelle and accompanying pieces removed for them, it shouldn't take much more than an hour. I'll confirm this with them beforehand so I don't get a Harley invoice surprise when they're finished.
#5
Anybody swap out stock bars for 12" mini apes and keep existing cables/wires? I just received my Khrome Werks 12" Bobber Style Apes, and they look like they might fit, but I'd rather not try if they won't. I don't want to scuff up the bars when I know the 10" will definitely work. And if it's a matter of needing to cough up the cash for new cables, I'm not going to do it for a $68 set of 1" bars.
I've read through a few old posts about this topic, but it's inconclusive. Some for and some against. If someone has done it on a new RK, that would alleviate any concerns with trying.
I've read through a few old posts about this topic, but it's inconclusive. Some for and some against. If someone has done it on a new RK, that would alleviate any concerns with trying.
#6
After all the bouncing back and forth between re-using stock cables or paying the toll for taller bars, I pulled the trigger on the 10" Khrome Werks Bobber Apes. They'll give about the same look as the Road King Special bars, which I'm good with. Saving the $600 on cables and labor is what attracts me most to this option.
Will probably still have Harley install the bars, though, because I don't want to mess with de-pinning the connectors. I still have nightmares about going through all of that with my Blackline a few years ago. Almost ruined the connectors and pins trying to get things removed.
I figure since it's just a bar install without cables and the bleeding of lines, etc., and the fact that I've already got the headlight nacelle and accompanying pieces removed for them, it shouldn't take much more than an hour. I'll confirm this with them beforehand so I don't get a Harley invoice surprise when they're finished.
Will probably still have Harley install the bars, though, because I don't want to mess with de-pinning the connectors. I still have nightmares about going through all of that with my Blackline a few years ago. Almost ruined the connectors and pins trying to get things removed.
I figure since it's just a bar install without cables and the bleeding of lines, etc., and the fact that I've already got the headlight nacelle and accompanying pieces removed for them, it shouldn't take much more than an hour. I'll confirm this with them beforehand so I don't get a Harley invoice surprise when they're finished.
#7
As you can see, the main difference between the Wild 1 Chubbys and the Khrome Werks Bobber Apes is going to be the pullback. KW has a more upright position, which I prefer. My last bars on my Fat Boy were Wild 1 Outlawz, and they had a 22 degree wrist angle and about 8" pullback. I wanted to get back to that but didn't like the look of the narrow center width on the Outlawz with the Road King frame.
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#8
As you can see, the main difference between the Wild 1 Chubbys and the Khrome Werks Bobber Apes is going to be the pullback. KW has a more upright position, which I prefer. My last bars on my Fat Boy were Wild 1 Outlawz, and they had a 22 degree wrist angle and about 8" pullback. I wanted to get back to that but didn't like the look of the narrow center width on the Outlawz with the Road King frame.
I see, thank you. I'm just the opposite and prefer to be a little more laid back when I ride. I'm also a big man, so the extra width of the Wild1 Chubby Bars also adds to my comfort level. Are you going with black or chrome?
#9
Bought black bars because I'm blacking out just about all of the front end, with the exception of the lower forks. I don't mind a little bit of contrast up front. Hoping to have everything back from powder coat today or tomorrow. Taking a bit longer than anticipated because there was a total of 18 pieces to powder.
#10
Bought black bars because I'm blacking out just about all of the front end, with the exception of the lower forks. I don't mind a little bit of contrast up front. Hoping to have everything back from powder coat today or tomorrow. Taking a bit longer than anticipated because there was a total of 18 pieces to powder.