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Criteria for totalling a bike

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Old 05-19-2014, 06:05 PM
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Default Criteria for totalling a bike

So it finally happened...after 30+ years of riding with no major accidents, I t-boned a cage yesterday on my '12 Streetglide who was pulling out to make a left turn from a street perpendicular to my lane of travel on my right. I saw the vehicle at the stop sign, started slowing and then shazaam...she pulls out to make a left. I grabbed the front, mashed the rear, the ABS kicked in and got me down to 20mph when I impacted her vehicle at 90 degrees. My wife went over my left side and impacted the A-pillar with her foreheadand I hit the fairing with my chest then fell with the bike to the ground on the right. We are ok other than numerous major scrapes and bruises. All x-rays and CT, CAT and MRI scans showed no damage or broken bones. We both are at home, stiif, sore but alive

You can imagine the damage, the whole front end is shot. Most of the right side, the direction it fell, it badly scraped and damaged. Oil cooler pushed into motor from the front end and tire collapsing into it. Upper stabilizer bar/mount shot to hell, at least one motor mount bent/broken. More disconcerting however is the flaking of the frame paint at the weld where the neck and the left side down tube meet. Not being a mechanic, but being somewhat of a gear head over my 53 years, my gut is the weld at a minimum was stressed and at worse, could be cracked.

Here's my question: Anyone have any insight as to the criteria insurance companies use for determining whether or not she's totalled? The adjuster will be contacting me on Wednesday to meet him at the tow yard to assess whether or not to send her to the dealer for repiar or total her onsite.
 
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Old 05-19-2014, 06:39 PM
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I got tboned on the 11th on a 14 FLHXS.The guy pulled out of a parking lot and drove right into my right side.I rode it home and the shop came and picked it up.They posted damage at approx $7800.The adjuster showed up today and looked it over and went with their estimate.Frame was bent.
From what I hear,they go by 70-75% of the book price of the vehicle.
They take into consideration the $ they can get from the bike at salvage also.In my case,it worked out best to fix mine,but you most likely will be totaled out.I'd start gathering up your receipts for the extras,and turn them in also.I had a 06 FXDWGI that was totaled out which brought me to buy this new Street Glide.
Don't settle for the first figure they give you.There is a bit of wiggle room in the figures.
Good luck
 
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:43 AM
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Only one thing goes in to it COST. August before last I totaled a 2011 RGU with 33,000 on it.
Took 15 minutes to decide it was totaled.
First offer was full top book value plus all Mods covered at current cost. All safety gear glasses
,boots and jacket cover over and above.
Here is some advice to you HD dealer haters . If you wreck your ride have it towed to an HD dealer. If you are getting a ride to the hospital when you can have it moved from tow yard to HD deal asap.
You can and will avoid a lot of the adjuster BS.
In my case I called HD the next morning. They contacted the tow yard . At first they wanted full payment before releasing it. Dealer took care of it and towed it where it should be.
The dealers knows these adjusters and they know the dealer when Adjuster shows up at the Dealer a lot of the BS stops right there.
Do not take it to an Indy
 

Last edited by smitty901; 05-20-2014 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:06 AM
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You have a liability claim against the driver. The insurance needs to compensate you for "pain & suffering" --

There are lots and lots of links online which discuss how to make and negotiate a liability claim for a motor vehicle accident. Lots of information, lots of answers. Many of these sites are put together by attorneys, and LAW SCHOOLS.

FIRST --

You need to keep a journal, daily progress reports of how you feel, how you've been "inconvenienced."

Having to make a claim, filed forms, talk to adjusters is part of "pain & suffering."

Keep ALL your receipts, time spent on the phone, time spent meeting with claims agents, time spent w/ doctors, meds, headaches, stiffness, bad dreams, loss of sleep.

YOUR insurance should pay for a lot of your needs -- This is standard. YOUR insurance compensates you while you work out your settlement. Then your insurance "subrogates" what they spent on you, what you got in settlement from the other insurance -- and then your insurance settles up between their loss expense and your settlement.

Your insurance has a vested interest in recovering your loss on your bike. They have it insured and need to be reimbursed for their loss on your claim.

You can probably settle this without an attorney -- But my experience with insurance claims is that when you let your attorney manage the claim, you find yourself a whole lot less stressed. This peace of mind is worth the expense of being represented by counsel. You're likely going to hear the phrase "apportioned liability." -- This is a shifty way of attributing blame to the other driver, AND attempting to assert that you might be partly to blame for the accident.

Did police respond to the accident? Was the driver cited? This is important stuff! If the other driver was not cited, you can request that they be cited by police. They seem to have been in violation of traffic law.

Counsel is likely to get a better settlement than you can negotiate without being represented.
 

Last edited by Allison Wunderland; 05-20-2014 at 07:13 AM.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:34 AM
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worked in a paint shop for a short while.. i know with cars the Insurance company would always go the cheapest route. Sounds like bike is a write off with frame damage
They will low ball u with first offer..Hold out till you get what you need
 
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Old 05-22-2014, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Allison Wunderland
You have a liability claim against the driver. The insurance needs to compensate you for "pain & suffering" --

There are lots and lots of links online which discuss how to make and negotiate a liability claim for a motor vehicle accident. Lots of information, lots of answers. Many of these sites are put together by attorneys, and LAW SCHOOLS.

FIRST --

You need to keep a journal, daily progress reports of how you feel, how you've been "inconvenienced."


Having to make a claim, filed forms, talk to adjusters is part of "pain & suffering."

Keep ALL your receipts, time spent on the phone, time spent meeting with claims agents, time spent w/ doctors, meds, headaches, stiffness, bad dreams, loss of sleep.

My wife was an insurance adjuster in a previous life. We are tracking and keeping a daily log of all the information you mentioned above.


YOUR insurance should pay for a lot of your needs -- This is standard. YOUR insurance compensates you while you work out your settlement. Then your insurance "subrogates" what they spent on you, what you got in settlement from the other insurance -- and then your insurance settles up between their loss expense and your settlement.

Your insurance has a vested interest in recovering your loss on your bike. They have it insured and need to be reimbursed for their loss on your claim.

You can probably settle this without an attorney -- But my experience with insurance claims is that when you let your attorney manage the claim, you find yourself a whole lot less stressed. This peace of mind is worth the expense of being represented by counsel. You're likely going to hear the phrase "apportioned liability." -- This is a shifty way of attributing blame to the other driver, AND attempting to assert that you might be partly to blame for the accident.

No apportioned liability here. Driver was cited for both FTYRW and as the at-fault party by VA state police officer who responded to scene.

Did police respond to the accident? Was the driver cited? This is important stuff! If the other driver was not cited, you can request that they be cited by police. They seem to have been in violation of traffic law.

Driver was cited for FTYRW, but not for no DL or no insurance. The driver has at least 20 offenses for no DL, no insurance or other traffic offenses in the past 5 years. Still trying to figure out how the state trooper decided not to arrest her at the scene. Insurance company she gave information on has no record of her or the vehicle as being insured.

Counsel is likely to get a better settlement than you can negotiate without being represented.
So far, GEICO has been doing a bang up job. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
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Old 05-30-2014, 05:26 PM
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Just an update...$8600 damage estimate from the Insurance company not including frame replacement. Bike total value is $21,200 and in VA, to be totaled, you must meet or exceed 75% of total value. had them take it to my Dealership and they are doing an independent estimate including frame replacement due to quantity of scratches on the frame. According to my HD guy, they don't do touch up painting on frames, it is a must replace repair. Anyone have any cost and labor time info on a frame replacement?
 
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by ShoreRider
Just an update...$8600 damage estimate from the Insurance company not including frame replacement. Bike total value is $21,200 and in VA, to be totaled, you must meet or exceed 75% of total value. had them take it to my Dealership and they are doing an independent estimate including frame replacement due to quantity of scratches on the frame. According to my HD guy, they don't do touch up painting on frames, it is a must replace repair. Anyone have any cost and labor time info on a frame replacement?

Another and hopefully the final update on the repairs portion: 1st, a front frame assembly is $2400, not inclusive of labor. Total estimate from the dealer is $15, 380. Just over by dollars the 75% valuation I needed. Talking with GEICO next week regarding a total loss determination, though they have been great so far. Fingers crossed.
 
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Old 06-07-2014, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ShoreRider
Another and hopefully the final update on the repairs portion: 1st, a front frame assembly is $2400, not inclusive of labor. Total estimate from the dealer is $15, 380. Just over by dollars the 75% valuation I needed. Talking with GEICO next week regarding a total loss determination, though they have been great so far. Fingers crossed.
This is why you take it to an HD dealer and no one else.
good luck with it
 
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Old 06-08-2014, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty901
This is why you take it to an HD dealer and no one else.
good luck with it
+1 on the dealer aspect, though I knew that from the beginning. GEICO adjuster has been straight up from Day 1. He even noted in our discussions that his initial estimate was nothing more than that, an initial estimate; a starting point for the dealer to move forward on developing the final estimate. I'm certain there will be additional incidentals and that's the point I intend to stress with the adjuster to ensure he makes a total loss decision.
 


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