The Tapping, the quest is over
#181
The Tapping, the quest is over
Originally Posted by Bikerscum
Thanks again to all for the patience & support so far. I now have my ROCKOUT rocker inserts available. A lot of time & research has gone into bringing you what I feel is a great product.The kit includes the inserts, 2 Viton O-rings, simple installation hardware, & complete instructions.
Info at rock-out@att.net
More good stuff to come....
Info at rock-out@att.net
More good stuff to come....
#182
#183
Kudus to Bikerscum and Harleycruiser for figuring out and fixing this! I only notice this sound when I put the windshield on, may throw a set of these in over the winter. Thanks!
Actually, no... a hole always expands outward just like the rest of the part. If the hole got smaller the atoms at the edge of the hole would be moving closer to each other, which is not expansion...
Actually, no... a hole always expands outward just like the rest of the part. If the hole got smaller the atoms at the edge of the hole would be moving closer to each other, which is not expansion...
#184
Kudus to Bikerscum and Harleycruiser for figuring out and fixing this! I only notice this sound when I put the windshield on, may throw a set of these in over the winter. Thanks!
Actually, no... a hole always expands outward just like the rest of the part. If the hole got smaller the atoms at the edge of the hole would be moving closer to each other, which is not expansion...
Actually, no... a hole always expands outward just like the rest of the part. If the hole got smaller the atoms at the edge of the hole would be moving closer to each other, which is not expansion...
http://physics.stackexchange.com/que...disc-is-heated
#185
#186
I bought the kit but I wish someone offered a shouldered bolt of the right dimensions because it seems like a more elegant solution and would be easier when it comes time to take things apart.
On the question of rocker arm end play, has anyone considered the use of wave washers or Bellville washers instead of shims? Basically these are springs in the form of a washer. There wouldn't be any end play yet the spring would allow for expansion as the assembly warms up during operation. I'm not any kind of technical expert, just thinking out loud. Here are a couple of links to the spring washers...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
http://www.seastrom-mfg.com/washerre...+Spring+Washer
On the question of rocker arm end play, has anyone considered the use of wave washers or Bellville washers instead of shims? Basically these are springs in the form of a washer. There wouldn't be any end play yet the spring would allow for expansion as the assembly warms up during operation. I'm not any kind of technical expert, just thinking out loud. Here are a couple of links to the spring washers...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belleville_washer
http://www.seastrom-mfg.com/washerre...+Spring+Washer
#187
Read directions
I just finished installing my lockers, I have seen numerous people saying how easy it was, no need to loosen rocker plate and just remove covers , back out the bolts where lockers go , install lockers and "presto" your done, I should have known better my own fault. The "easy way" may work for some but I was not one of them. I spent 6 yes 6 hours doing mine because when you don't loosen all 4 bolts on rocker plate and also 2 breather screws it does not let the rocker plate index it self causing the lockers to go in too hard and when torquing to 22 pounds it flared one of the lockers just like a brake line, so I ended up with a locker flared at the end and stuck in the rocker plate, to make matters worse it was impossible to remove the rocker plate to put on bench to remove locker, this may be due to my new Glide Pro front mount positioning the engine slightly different, I finally put plate back in place and carefully used my die grinder with a pad to remove the flare and get locker back flush with plate, then I went back to front cylinder and took cover back off and then loosened the rocker plate ,inspected lockers and assembled properly by the book and instructions, all is well now and it has made the ticking go away in the 2-3000 range. So unless you are normally lucky just do it the long way it will take a lot less time.
Stan
Stan
#188
FWIW with my ROCKOUT kits I recommend doing the job on the bench, & include the O-rings & installation hardware to do so. It may seem a little more time consuming at first, but I think it's worth it.
ROCK-OUT@att.net
ROCK-OUT@att.net
Last edited by Bikerscum; 09-13-2015 at 09:39 PM.
#189
I just finished installing my lockers, I have seen numerous people saying how easy it was, no need to loosen rocker plate and just remove covers , back out the bolts where lockers go , install lockers and "presto" your done, I should have known better my own fault. The "easy way" may work for some but I was not one of them. I spent 6 yes 6 hours doing mine because when you don't loosen all 4 bolts on rocker plate and also 2 breather screws it does not let the rocker plate index it self causing the lockers to go in too hard and when torquing to 22 pounds it flared one of the lockers just like a brake line, so I ended up with a locker flared at the end and stuck in the rocker plate, to make matters worse it was impossible to remove the rocker plate to put on bench to remove locker, this may be due to my new Glide Pro front mount positioning the engine slightly different, I finally put plate back in place and carefully used my die grinder with a pad to remove the flare and get locker back flush with plate, then I went back to front cylinder and took cover back off and then loosened the rocker plate ,inspected lockers and assembled properly by the book and instructions, all is well now and it has made the ticking go away in the 2-3000 range. So unless you are normally lucky just do it the long way it will take a lot less time.
Stan
Stan
The instructions specifically state to loosen all four bolts and the breather bolts. If you don't it keeps a load on the shaft and binds it, The shaft will not turn and the locker will not pull past it, making it difficult to pull in.
Is it better to take the plate off and do it on the bench, absolutely.
This is especially true of older high mileage motors where the shaft might me galled and frozen in the plate, best to do it on the bench were you can see it pull in. But in all honesty on these motors you don't need the shaft locked.
#190
Stan glad it quieted down your motor, sorry you had a problem. I will send a new set or refund your money, let me know.
The instructions specifically state to loosen all four bolts and the breather bolts. If you don't it keeps a load on the shaft and binds it, The shaft will not turn and the locker will not pull past it, making it difficult to pull in.
Is it better to take the plate off and do it on the bench, absolutely.
This is especially true of older high mileage motors where the shaft might me galled and frozen in the plate, best to do it on the bench were you can see it pull in. But in all honesty on these motors you don't need the shaft locked.
The instructions specifically state to loosen all four bolts and the breather bolts. If you don't it keeps a load on the shaft and binds it, The shaft will not turn and the locker will not pull past it, making it difficult to pull in.
Is it better to take the plate off and do it on the bench, absolutely.
This is especially true of older high mileage motors where the shaft might me galled and frozen in the plate, best to do it on the bench were you can see it pull in. But in all honesty on these motors you don't need the shaft locked.
Thanks,Stan