Wow, that would be real nice information to have on hand. Is it available? Any links or is it military classified? The info not the laser...LOL

 

Subscribing to this refreshingly informative thread - thank you.

 

I worked airlines, most mechanics knew little about grease, though they really didn't have to, was always spelled out in the manuals. Last several years before retiring, got a lot of bearings, especially in Honeywell boxes, that were sealed in plastic envelopes labeled: Country of origin unknown. Always with what looked like Vaseline in them, like these failing Harley wheel bearings. Doesn't give me a lot of confidence in aircraft maintenance these days. Flying jumpseat in the cockpit didn't, either.

Got a look at Delta's Atlanta engine shops a few years ago, test cell area looked like a Star Wars set. Most people would probably be amazed at the technical expertise and detail that goes into jet engine overhaul.

 

I just replaced my front wheel bearings for the SECOND time on my 2011 FLHP. The first time done by a dealer on the road at about 17-18k and now again at 38k by myself. One bearing was good, the other was bad and when I popped the seal the grease was discolored....looked like water contamination and I NEVER pressure wash the bike or put a hose to the axle area. Also, the center spacer was covered in a LOT of rust. I really should have taken pictures but I'm thinking that water is getting into our wheel somehow. Porosity? I'd ;like to know how these wheels are made because the center hub looking on the inside has indentations made by maybe an ejector pin from a die or something like that. I'm wondering if some wheels have a defect letting water in. Or could it be condensation? Living in Chicago, my unheated garage certainly goes thru wild temperature changes.

 

I have a 2014 street glide - I've had it now for a little under 1.5 years. It now has 32,000 miles on it. Wheel bearings are still good. Just checked them last weekend front and back. Still good.

My last harley (2007 Heritage Softail) I rode that 130,000 miles, no issues with the wheel bearings. Never replaced them either when I traded it in.

 

My experience is not the same. At 15K miles I had to have a new rear tire. I bought a set of MC2s so I had the front done at the same time. The non ABS bearing in the front wheel was nearly at the point of catastrophic failure. About .030 slop in the inner race and very rough feeling. I had it warranteed but I also bought the tools to do it myself because I think it's going to be a regular thing. I experienced the same issues on another recent Harley product I owned, a 2008 Buell Ulysses..the MoCo really cheaped us out on the wheel bearings.

 

this is what i tell everyone that has the 25mm bearings. buy the correct tool, you're going to need it.

 

Condensation is a problem with cold/warm temp cycles. The type of grease used (I have no idea what's in these Chinese made Harley bearings) can make a big difference. Some repel water, some absorb water, and most actually have a mix of both. It's kind of technical, but you can see specs on grease (when you know what kind) by doing a google search for "msds (grease name) grease", example: msds mobil 1 grease
Synthetics excel in rust protection, and big names like Shell, Mobil and Amsoil are a safer bet than something you never heard of in a discount store. A tube will do a lot of motorcycle wheel bearings; get the good stuff, it's worth it.

Center spacer rust is a common problem, I've had to hammer axles out of them. A good coat of anti seize or grease inside and out prevents that; why motorcycle companies don't do that is a dis-service to us. I've found the same in other brands, too, not just Harley. I also coat the outer bearing race and wheel bore with anti seize when I put bearings in, help prevent minor galling installing them, and they'll come out easier next time. I've also seen some nasty corrosion in aluminum bores with steel bearings in them that were put in dry; you have dissimilar metals which can promote corrosion. Unfortunately, probably the only way to take care of your bike this way is to do it yourself, dealers probably wouldn't take the time if you asked them.

Indentations in the wheel hub - I haven't noticed that in any. If you didn't get the bike new, I wonder if someone could have changed the original bearings and ham fisted it with a hammer and punch, leaving some marks.

 

I never realized rusted center spacers were a problem on the new bike. My 1988 doesn't have that problem and it has a lot of miles and years on the new bike. I'm wondering if I am blowing water past the seals when I blow dry the bike with a leaf blower. Maybe. Just can't see how the water is getting in there. I'm going to look to see if maybe a tapered wheel spacer might shield the bearings a little bit more....or if there is a second seal I can put on the outside of the hub. Bottom line this is frustrating !!!!!!!!!

 

I agree. I live out here in California, so we get nearly 350 days of riding with minimal rain and low humidity, although we do get fog from time to time. This might really extend my wheel bearings life - although I *DO* have another set purchased for my 50k service (which will be in less than 6-7 months because of the extensive riding I do every day).

"you have dissimilar metals which can promote corrosion" I have a friend who works for PG&E as a corrosion expert, and another who works at Berkeley Labs as a scientist. They both said the issue with two metals is that they form what is known as a galvanic corrosion and that providing a dielectric gel would actually speed up that process (not sure if the anti-seize is dielectric in this case), so to mitigate that process use an antioxidant paste. In this case, use something like Nolax, which is an anti-seize and antioxidant. This would make sure the aluminum and steel don't form a dielectric cell and speed up corrosion.