Those are the ones I have as well. You shoudn't have any problems running the wires, just have patience. I used twine the first time and it kept breaking so a friend suggested using a shoestring...brilliant suggestion. As long as there are no plugs on the cables they should run through, just don't get in a hurry. I didn't have to use any lube on mine, just pushed from the bottom and pulled from the top.


Taking the plugs apart is about the hardest part when you are trying not to damage them. If you don't get them back together where the wire clips back in place it may push out when you plug it back in. Make sure they are secure.


Good luck! And for the record, I love those bars and get a lot of compliments on them.

 

Why does everyone take the connectors off? I ran my wires with the connectors on, I took them off at the switches. I even ran heated grip wires on the left. I didn't have to take any pins out of any connector. On my write up, it shows me taking the connector off the end of the heated grip wire that goes to the bike harness under the nacelle, but I didn't have to in the end.

 

Post a link to your write-up, I am sure it would be helpful.


I wasn't able to get around taking the plugs off. I tried but they would get hung on the 90deg turn. With the throttle you have no choice unless you get lucky running the plug through, there is only one way to run that one. The other cable, provided you run separate could run the opposite direction. When I replaced the switch cable the small plugs (little white ones) were still hanging up on the throttle cable at the turn despite being very small. I took the plugs ends off, went the other way and it worked very easily.

 

The fairing will tilt forward and rest against it's own weight and resistance from the wiring harness. It is stable and isn't going to fall over due to everything still being connected by the main harness. It sits on the mounts and won't slide down even when you take the bolts off. The stock bar clamps will work with apes. Replace the bushings with poly bushings and use Loctite. The only connecter that has to be taken apart is the twist grip connecter. The rest will fit through. Use grease (one that is safe for electronics and won't ruin plastic/rubber). Push and pull and be patient. Getting the wires through the bars is the most time consuming portion of the project.
Stop over thinking it and just do it. Pull the trigger and learn as you go.

 

If you get the fairing just over those tabs it will fall. Trust me. It happened when trying to lean it further forward, you can't see the fairing frame or the tabs that is sits on. It was on there and hanging like it was good to go and then just fell. BTW, a towell won't help when that happens. 4 bolts, fender off...no worries...just in case.


As far as grease, in the heat that will eventually make it's way to the hole at the bottom...it can be done without it.


As far as the connectors, if you run the twist grip and the switch in the opposite direction it can be done by only removing the one plug. I have the same bars and I couldn't get the plug end of the switch cable around the 90degree with the throttle cable already in the bar. That being said, there are probably a lot of creative ways to run them and it was my first attempt at doing bars so probably didn't do it the most efficient way. With the proper tools and knowledge, the plugs come apart easy so saves the hassle of trying to run plugs through a right angle.

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/new-r...ted-grips.html

 

Why did you lean the fairing that far forward? I've done numerous bikes and never had a fairing fall.

 

There is a lot of moving it forward and back during this procedure. It just happened, there was no reason, I just lifted it too high when I tilted it back.

 

One guy, a while back, suggested using weed trimmer line to run the wires. It ain't gonna break!

I used some string that is used for baking. It was on hand at the time. Didn't have any trouble with it. I ran the string through both sides first (1 left, 2 right) and then pulled the left side controls, then the right side controls (both with the connectors) then the TBW (without connector). Didn't put enough tape on the TBW cable and it slipped off, about two inches from the bottom hole. Had to pull both back out and try again. That was the worst trouble I had doing the entire job.

 

Ive done both my '15 and '17 with the Yaffee Monkeys and didnt take any of the plugs apart either. I didn't even disconnect from switches, just left the whole shebang together. The less I need to take apart, the less worries. Just pushed the wires thru, guiding with a heavy string. 10 min tops on both start to finish running the wires.


I just slightly lift and then tilt my fairing forward enough to clear the upper bar clamp bolts. That seems to be just enough to keep the bottom still engaged in the mounts to keep the fairing from slipping down