I have a little problem with the 2016 Ultra Limited. I changed out handle bars on the Ultra and in the process screwed up the heated grips. I purchased a "new" set of heated grips and installed them and all seemed to go well until I tested them out.
The following is what happened. With the heated grip off (0), the right side throttle heats up to maybe 50% and the left is cold. With the control on to 3 or 4 still the same, right side throttle warm and left side control cold. If I understand correctly the power comes through the left grip so the only thing that is obvious to me is that the rheostat in the left grip may be defective. I admit I don't totally understand how they are set up to work. I think the plugs are idiot proof so I don't think I plugged it in incorrectly but there is that chance.
Now, I'm off to the garage to unbolt the batwing to check the wiring. What do you think is wrong?

 

I recently replaced the bars on my '14 Limited and effin' up the heated grips was a concern of mine. Luckily, everything on mine went back together and works just fine. I was surprised there are 7 connectors to plug in for all of the bar controls. While they should be fairly idiot proof, I'm not so sure you have them plugged in properly. There's a few plugs of the same size so I'd check that first to see if you have them mixed up.

How did you screw up the stock heated grips? And now the replacement set doesn't work either?

 

HEATED HANDGRIPS 5.2
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
See Figure 5-4. The heated handgrips are controlled by the
rotating switch located at the end of the left handgrip. The
switch can be turned from an OFF position through 6 increasingly
warm settings.


Diagnostic Tips
If the heating element controller, located in the left grip, detects
an open or short between the left and right grip circuit, the
system is disabled. To enable the heating element control circuit,
cycle the ignition switch after the problem is resolved.
Connector Information
For additional information about the connectors in the following
diagram(s) and diagnostic procedure(s), including the color of
the harness test kit terminal probes, see B.1 CONNECTORS.


5-8 2015 Touring Diagnostics: Accessories, Horn, Lighting and Security
HEATED HANDGRIPS INOPERATIVE
PART NUMBER TOOL NAME
HD-41404 HARNESS CONNECTOR TEST KIT
Table 5-6. Heated Handgrips Inoperative Diagnostic Faults
POSSIBLE CAUSES
Open in the ground circuit
Open in the power circuit
Short to ground in the power circuit
Right heated grip malfunction
Left heated grip malfunction
1. Current Draw Test
1. Turn IGN OFF.
2. Remove P&A fuse.
3. Turn IGN ON.
4. With heated handgrips off, using HARNESS CONNECTOR
TEST KIT (Part No. HD-41404), test current draw across
fuse block [64B] socket terminals 11 and 12.
5. Turn heated handgrips control to maximum setting while
watching current draw.
6. Does current draw increase to approximately 3.5 Amps
above original reading?
a. Yes. System functioning normally.
b. No. Go to Test 2.
2. Power Supply Test
1. Turn IGN OFF.
2. Install P&A fuse.
3. Disconnect heated grips [189].
4. Turn IGN ON.
5. Test voltage between [189B] terminals 1 and 2.
6. Is battery voltage present?
a. Yes. Go to Test 8.
b. No. Go to Test 3.
3. Heated Grips Power Circuit Test
1. Test voltage between [189B] terminal 1 and ground.
2. Is battery voltage present?
a. Yes. Go to Test 4.
b. No. Repair open in (V/BK) wire. (5041)
4. Heated Grips Ground Circuit Test
1. Test continuity between [189B] terminal 2 and ground.
2. Is continuity present?
a. Yes. Go to Test 5.
b. No. Repair open in (BK) wire. (5041)
5. Heated Grips Test
1. Disconnect right heated handgrip [237].
2. Using HARNESS CONNECTOR TEST KIT (Part No. HD-
41404), test continuity between [237B] terminal 1 and
ground.
3. Is continuity present?
a. Yes. Go to Test 6.
b. No. Replace right heated grip. (6553)
6. Heated Grips Short to Ground Test
1. Disconnect heated handgrip interconnect [206].
2. Test continuity between [206B] terminal 1 and ground.
3. Is continuity present?
a. Yes. Go to Test 7.
b. No. Repair short to ground between [237B] terminal
1 and [206A] terminal 1. (5041)
7. Heated Grip Power Circuit Short to
Ground Test
1. Disconnect heated handgrip to main harness [189].
2. Test continuity between [189B] terminal 1 and ground.
3. Is continuity present?
a. Yes. Repair short to ground in (V/BE) wire. (5041)
b. No. Replace left handgrip.
8. Heated Grips Resistance Test
1. Disconnect right heated handgrip [237].
2. Test resistance between [237A] terminals 1 and 2.
3. Is resistance between 7-12 Ohms?
a. Yes. Replace left heated grip. (6553)
b. No. Replace right heated grip. (6554)



Good luck in the hunt!

__________________________________________________ ____
For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click the LINKS below... For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sporsters

 

__________________________________________________ ____
For ROCKOUT information & purchasing please click the LINKS below... For all Twin Cams and Evo Big Twins & Sporsters

 

I'm not sure if this is your solution, cuz both mine didn't work, but the end cap ,with the little prongs were bent, i believe on rt side, been a while, maybe one pin is bent, after i made sure pins were seated , all is well, worth a look

 

Well I'm not totally inept just a little inept.My first mistake was, I did the project over 3 weeks as time would allow which caused my memory to fade on how it came apart. To the question of how did I damage the grip initially. I installed a set of 10" WO578 Wild 1 bars on the Ultra Limited. I found conflicting information if the heated grips would work so figured it wasn't the first time there was misinformation on the web. Well they do not fit in standard configuration. The wall thickness on the grip is thicker than stock which makes the ID smaller. It starts out OK but got tight the farther up in the grip you go. Maybe if you used a lubricant it might go, I didn't so I forced it, that's the second mistake. It broke the internals of the grip inside the handle bar. Off to the store to buy a new $199 set of grips. I then reamed out the inside of the handle bar to get the proper sizing. Still thicker ID than stock but to the point where it would slide easily. Everything on the bar went together just like it should after ID modification. Now comes the install on the bike. Like I said this was all over a 3 week period and I did not remember exactly where every thing plunged in, mistake #3.
With the higher bars the power cord for the grip just made it out of the grip. The other end of the connector is buried deep into the batwing which allowed me to plug the two connectors on the left grip together because that was the only way the cables would reach, which in hind sight makes no sense. I did however find that the connector for the right grip would go all the way to the power source no problem so I plunged it in, thus the heat when the ignition was turned on. Ultimately I made an extension for the power cord to be able to plug in to 12V power and plugged every thing in the proper sockets. The plug configuration is not idiot proof which I proved, but now all is well and the grips are working. It was just a combination of non-standard configuration for the bars and me not paying close enough attention to details, thinking that if the cables reached a certain spot that must be the way they plug together.

 

Thanks for the explanation and most importantly --- you're up and running.
I installed Yaffee Monkey Bars and while my heated grip did go in (and work) it was tighter than I'd like it to be. Likewise when it came to the 7 plugs coming out of the bars --- I had to think it over a bit. I could have easily been in the same position, but I got lucky everything worked first try.