Harley's extended contracts are not administrated by Harley. It is an done by an independent company. Usually if a repair is under $1000 the repair is reviewed and authorized over the phone. When repair exceeds that amount they send out an inspector to visually review repair and bike. He then reports what he finds for review and decision. If a failure occurs on a dealer install using OEM parts it will generally go your way. If you break down elsewhere with aftermarket or "indy" installed parts, it gives them a way out.
It is something to consider.
The name you struggled with is "Moss"

 

Personally I'd go Fuel-Moto, look at there track record and look at the power they put out as well. And as said they could overnight if needed but I think you will be fine.
Not trying to change your mind thought but you've got [plenty of power there if you have good head work and bump the comp. up to 10.6, install some woods 777's and a 58mm TB and breather with good exhaust, then use an excellent tuner and your all over 120 squared.

 

Save your dough and buy a 2018.

 

What you are talking about is the Magnuson Moss Act. The purpose of that was to prevent manufacturers from forcing you to buy their products to service/repair your vehicle. So basically it says that you can replace your air filter with a K&N filter instead of a Harley branded one and they cannot deny warranty coverage based on that.

With your extended warranty, the odds are pretty great that it is not provided by the manufacturer. You likely signed a contract agreeing to the terms. This is more like insurance, and has nothing to do with Magnuson Moss.

As far as the cams go, unless you can prove they were a direct replacement for the stock cams, you will not likely get much warranty coverage on your engine in the event of a failure. From the manufacturer, nor the aftermarket warranty company.

 

The power they put out is not equal to a built 107 or 110.

 

Depends on the build. And also the real world results vs a dyno sheet. The M8 has a better torque curve - comes on much earlier. I can tell you having ridden the new bikes, that the new M8 bike would outrun my 96hp/114tq "107" Ultra as well as my very healthy 103 Rushmore SGS.

Three other things -

1. Throw similar $$ in mods at the new motor it will destroy the Twin Cam bike, so apples to apples.

2. The new crank can handle the power whereas I can speak from experience that the TC crank might not. Mine didn't, which equated into splitting the cases and welding the crank.

3. The 18s will be a lot more than just a better motor. Totally different bike from the 17.

If the OP has money to burn and loves the bike, go for it. Fuel Moto would be a good choice. But if he waits a little while, he can get a lot more bike. At a price of course. They ain't getting any cheaper, that's for sure.

 

If I was on the road, and experienced a failure requiring opening the motor, I'd probably ship or trailer the bike home for local or self repairs,

 

my recommendation to you:

if you are going 110, don't do it. it is not worth the hassle for what you will get.

if you have extended warranty, they will fix is on the road as long as they cannot prove the parts installed caused the problem. How they fix it might not be HOW you want it fixed. If you want it fixed different, you will pay the additional.

Last, what are you trying to accomplish? a more powerful engine or keeping up with your friends, etc. These are all questions you should be asking yourself. if its just more POWER, go 107. you will get the same if not better results.

if its keeping up with your riding buddies, go 107, as you will lead not follow

if its being compliant with extended warranty, then go 110, as you will get less hassle with dealer installed parts, regardless of outcome.

most 110s I have seen are DOGS without some type of work. having owned a couple, they are good engines but do not make great power and are prone to being HOT and failure due to various over/under engineered issues.

Last, if you upgrade the engine, you need to think about the clutch, and other drive train components otherwise you are just creating problems.

A well performing engine will require upgraded driveline components to always perform well.

Once you add it all up, the potential is to upgrade your engine is now in the $5K range. You should also consider could you trade for much more and how much would that be?

lots to consider. I admit, I am not a fan of 110s. give me a 107 or a 120 any day, but keep the 110s to yourself.

 

^^^The voice of experience right there

 

I have a full stage 1 on my 103 now, AND a full ESP. I'm done messing with the motor. It has plenty of giddyup for long distance hauling, which is what I bought her for.

One of my close friends has a Victory Cross-Country. He's dropped about $4K into the motor, and is pulling 125 squared. He smoked another buddy on a 110SE, Stage 1, and he hasn't shut up about it since. Yet another buddy with a Kawasaki Concours 14 can smoke us all without breaking a sweat. And he spent less than all of us.