Oil change before or after winter storage?
#1
Oil change before or after winter storage?
for those that put your bikes away for winter... does it really make that much of a difference if you change oil/filter in the fall before storage or in the spring after winter storage?
yeah, yeah...we know , those of you in the warmer winter states don't have to deal with it.
yeah, yeah...we know , those of you in the warmer winter states don't have to deal with it.
#4
I've seen a thread on this before but can find it w/searchbox, makes sense.
#6
#7
Just to clarify, I change my oil and filter in the fall. I dont "store" my bike as climate allows for riding in the winter. There are 2 oil threads on this forum that discuss this and several experts state that the additives in the newer oil can handle the oxidation and moisture issues. This goes against my "Farm kid" upbringing and I don't agree with the experts. That's why I change my oil at the end of a long riding season.
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#8
Join Date: Aug 2010
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Depends on how long the oil in it has been run and your type of ridding. Short rides don't heat up the oil and circulate the harmful ingredients in it. If it has been new just a month ago, don't change.
Changing at the end of your season is preferred. The reasoning is oil will accumulate combustion acids and other steel harming crap builds up in the system. You don't want that crap to sit and do it's thing on the moving parts all winter.
Plus moisture also builds up and can cause pitting of bearing surfaces. Always bring the oil up to operating temps THEN drain. Fresh oil will be much more friendly than contaminated oil on stored engines.
I like to change oil when I have come off a long run. 100 miles is good enough for "drying" out the moisture and getting any crap suspended in the oil.
Changing at the end of your season is preferred. The reasoning is oil will accumulate combustion acids and other steel harming crap builds up in the system. You don't want that crap to sit and do it's thing on the moving parts all winter.
Plus moisture also builds up and can cause pitting of bearing surfaces. Always bring the oil up to operating temps THEN drain. Fresh oil will be much more friendly than contaminated oil on stored engines.
I like to change oil when I have come off a long run. 100 miles is good enough for "drying" out the moisture and getting any crap suspended in the oil.
#9
There are a wide range of climates and storage situations.
The worst environs are not the really cold ones where things _stay frozen_ all winter... The worst are ones like say coastal WA or south Alaska coastal towns. Places where there is too much snow/ice to ride but the temp varies above/below freezing humidity is high. Storing a bike in other than a heated garage you will have condensation build up the entire time in storage.
The correct answer for eny environ where it matters is before.
Personally, I change all 3 (engine, trans and primary for Harley and enginer trans and rear axle for the beemer) every 3,000 miles *and* just before garaging for the winter unless I only have a few hundred miles or less since last change, in that case I take a nice hard ride of about 50 miles to get temps all the way up. (I put many miles every summer on both but right before end of season it is 95% short trip to/from work and around town).
Currently I have a heated garage so after change I just park them inside and open the garage door once a month and run them for a bit.
Without the garage I would do same changes, finishing with fogging the intake and pulling the battery.
The worst environs are not the really cold ones where things _stay frozen_ all winter... The worst are ones like say coastal WA or south Alaska coastal towns. Places where there is too much snow/ice to ride but the temp varies above/below freezing humidity is high. Storing a bike in other than a heated garage you will have condensation build up the entire time in storage.
The correct answer for eny environ where it matters is before.
Personally, I change all 3 (engine, trans and primary for Harley and enginer trans and rear axle for the beemer) every 3,000 miles *and* just before garaging for the winter unless I only have a few hundred miles or less since last change, in that case I take a nice hard ride of about 50 miles to get temps all the way up. (I put many miles every summer on both but right before end of season it is 95% short trip to/from work and around town).
Currently I have a heated garage so after change I just park them inside and open the garage door once a month and run them for a bit.
Without the garage I would do same changes, finishing with fogging the intake and pulling the battery.
#10
Just to clarify, I change my oil and filter in the fall. I dont "store" my bike as climate allows for riding in the winter. There are 2 oil threads on this forum that discuss this and several experts state that the additives in the newer oil can handle the oxidation and moisture issues. This goes against my "Farm kid" upbringing and I don't agree with the experts. That's why I change my oil at the end of a long riding season.
I also will do my second primary oil change with...yes AMSOIL 20-50w also. I went with AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR 75-140w in the tranny... what a major improvement, queiter and so much easier to get into neutral.