Hey everyone,
I'm currently running RevTech 20w50 in my '96 Road King. Have been happy with the performance of the oil but at $20.00 a gallon it seems a bit steep for a non-synth oil. However, I would like to stay with a non-synth oil for the time being. What alternatives are there??

I know, I'm goofy for not going to a full synth oil, but the "organic" RevTech oil has done well so far, but I'm looking for an alternative.I've found the Mobil 1 V-twin at the local Autozone for $8.40/quart, but it's a full synthetic.

On a side note, anyone tried adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer to their bikes at oil change time??

Thanks,
BK

 

There are plenty of good non-synthetic oils available- Castrol GTX, Havoline, HD360, Pennzoil, and Valvoline just to name a few.
Some m/c specific oils like Drag Specialties, Bel Ray and Spectro come to mind as good alternatives as well.

If I had to pick a single non-m/c specific dino it would be Castrol GTX 20W-50. I've seen many a Harley, BMW, and jap air cooled engine cruise well past 100,000 miles on that stuff with nary a problem...

As for the oil stabilizer- never saw any need for it. Like I said, I've seen far too many air-cooled m/c engines make it past 100k miles without problems on plain old dino oil. IMO additives are a waste of money if you change your oil regularly...

 

Couldn't have said it any better......

 

I use to think Castrol GTX 20w-50 was good oil too, until I took apart a high performance Ford 302 that I ran it in. Talk about sludge every where. I will be using syn when I get it back to gather.

Any Oil you have to put addatives to is NOT good oil. Most quality oils recommend you DO NOT add anything to them.

RevTech makes a good Dino oil for motorcycles. I have seen a test (by a seperate oil company) that showed it to be much better then HD's Dino oil.

 

DD- you're the first person I've heard of that had a sludge buildup problem with Castrol. Has it had Castrol for a considerable part of its life or did it have something else before?
The only oil I ever saw that could be consistently counted on to sludge up a motor was Quaker State. It was reformulated back in the late80's, but prior to that you could always tell a QS motor by the clogged oil galleries, black waxy sludge buildup three-quarters of an inch deep in the heads and lifter valley, and black wax deposits on the cylinders just below the ringline. [:'(]

Just out of curiosity- what did you have the hi-po 302 in? (Love that engine!)

 

When I run non-synthetic these days I choose Havoline 20w-50. Inexpensive and works well.

 

Thanks for the replies. My local indy shop carries the RevTech stuff so it is easy to come by, but that $5/quart just seems steep for an "organic" oil. I'm still wanting to change engine oil at2500 mile intervals so going to the sythnetic oil would not really be cost effective. I'm okay with running the primary and trans to 5000 mile intervals, but since the engine sees heat and thermal breakdown that 2500 mile change is what I want to keep doing.

Used to use Castrol 20w50 in my old 78 Superglide. Easy to find and the price was right. Sure beat the old 70 weight Pennzoil that I started out with!!

I've done a search on oils on the forum and seems like a number of people are running "automotive" oils. I remember one person having very good luck with Rotella 15w40. I run it in my Powerstroke diesel but never considered it for my bike.

May try the Castrol GTX 20w50. Will keep a close eye on oil level and condition.

Thanks again for your replies,
BK

 

In my H-D owner's manual it says if you can't find H-D oil to use a diesel engine oil. May be something to the Rotella idea...

 

Speaking of 15w40 Diesel oil......I use it EVERY winter in my Harleys. From about March to October, I use either 20w50 or 15w50. Then it gets changed to diesel 15w40 from October to March, which it is usually 40 degrees or below during that time. During the cold weather though, the bike might only accumulate up to 4,000 miles.

Sometimes I use Rotella, Motorcraft, Castrol, Pennzoil, and even store branded 15w40. So far, it has never been synthetic.

I believe the owners manual even recommends using 10w40 if the temperature stays below 40 degrees, therefore to me at least 15w40 sounds like a good choice. I've not looked in the owners manual in a long time......maybe someone else could chime in perhaps.

I once had a 1997 Sportster that used nothing but 15w40 in engine and transmission/primary. The bike used 15w40 all year long and sold with it with a total mileage of about 80,000 miles. It never burned or leaked any oil. The current owner continued using 15w40 in both holes and his mileage is up to 120,000 miles I believe. Claims he has never had any trouble.

My 1998 FLHTC was bought new in the fall of 1997. After warranty was up, the engine received 20w50 for warm months and 15w40 for cold months. The bike has just a little over 180,000 miles on it....still does not burn or leak any oil. The heads, pistons, rings, jugs, cam, and lifters are all original and have never been replaced. It currently still produces plenty of power and fuel economy is average 50mpg. I did however replace the INA bearing to the Torrington bearing though which was several years ago now.

As much as I use 15w40, however my bikes never use it during warm months. It is just simply too thin for warm weather.

 

"I believe the owners manual even recommends using 10w40 if the temperature stays below 40 degrees, therefore to me at least 15w40 sounds like a good choice. I've not looked in the owners manual in a long time......maybe someone else could chime in perhaps."

Still says the same thing- 10W-40 when the lowest ambient temp will be below 40 deg F.
My dealer stocks HD360 in 10W-40 as well as 20W-50, 50W, and 60W.