Iv tried 5 things in primary this summer not one of them on that list. Right now have vavoline max life syn mixed 40% stp oil treatment. Bike is a joy to ride it shifts so smooth. The other I liked was castrol syn 20-50 mixed with STP. That came out the cleanest, will see if this atf looks as good when it comes out. Was kinda disappointed in the spectro primary, really not any better than t6.

 

So, oils containing "friction modifiers" aren't recommended for the primary. Red Line V-Twin Primary Case Oil contains ,,,, "friction modifiers. ?!?!

Now, can I assume my personal confusion over this terminology is simply because all "friction modifiers" are not equal ? Red Line states their V-Twin Primary Case Oil contains "friction modifiers" that support clutch function, whereas generally speaking, the term applies to additives which reduce all friction.

I assume this must be the case but I'm wondering if someone here has checked it out.

 

Yea, I know, clear as mud. We were always told never to use oil with friction modifiers in a wet clutch; and then Red Line puts that on their V-Twin Primary Oil bottle. I think your assumption is correct. I believe this is the same as their MTF formula which was promoted as a primary oil before they began a V-Twin specific marketing campaign. I use to use this fluid but did not like the way the clutch engaged. I'm running standard 10W40 Rotella-T now and really like the friction zone on the clutch.

 

Well the trans fluid came out with alot of clutch dust. Put some spectro dino w/STP in because of it and the clunk is back. Think might try amsoil primary next if that don't shift as good as atf, will try amsoil atf.

 

This season I experimented with multiple primary lubricants:

Formula +
Valvoline 20W-50 Conventional
Valvoline SAE 30 Conventional
Valvoline VR1 50 Weight
Valvoline VR1 60 Weight
Mobil 1 20W-50 Synthetic
Mobil 1 ATF Synthetic
Ford Type F ATF
Rotella T6 5W-40 Synthetic
Redline Primary Chaincase Oil
Spectro Primary Chaincase Oil
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 Synthetic

I think I wore out the derby cover torx screws I had them in and out so many times Some fluids were dumped within 50 miles, some were kept for a few hundred before I'd make a decision on them. I'm after a friction zone that allows for accurate finesse for doing slow speed motor officer exercises yet when riding I use the 2 finger upshift/rev-match downshift technique preloading the shift peg on both up and down shifts.

The ATF's were the worst, basically no friction zone and big noise increase from the primary and the case was much hotter; the Mobil 1 20W-50 and Rotella T6 caused clutch slippage. The Formula + and Valvoline 30, 50, and 60 were decent but the shifting became slow and clunky. The Redline was just meh, it worked but at that price I'd hoped for more. The Spectro was no different than a 20W-50 conventional but much more expensive.

When I figured I'd be living with 20W-50 and quit chasing the Holy Grail of primary lubricants I tried the Mobil 1 Racing 4T synthetic... holy smokes, that's a sweet friction zone, upshifts and downshifts were butter 'snick' smooth. So after a season of fooling around I finally found a synthetic as I'd hoped I could that gave a great friction zone and smooth accurate shifts: Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40

The Racing 4T synthetic is JASO MA rated, the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic is NOT, by the way

My riding friends tell me I have too much time on my hands

 

Wonder why HD F+ was left off? F+ works just fine.

 

Probly it was not around when poll started

 

The Racing 4T synthetic is JASO MA rated, the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic is NOT, by the way
[/QUOTE]

Just because it doesn't say it is a JASO MA rated product, doesn't mean it isn't.

Just saying.

Ken

 

Just because it doesn't say it is a JASO MA rated product, doesn't mean it isn't.

Just saying.

Ken[/QUOTE]


Really? You sound pretty sure, apparently Mobil 1 doesn't share your faith...

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...ycle_Oils.aspx



Edited to add: Found a thread on another forum from '12, take it for what it's worth: http://www.roadglide.org/14-tech-are...-any-more.html

I can only report on how it worked for me in my primary. The V-Twin 20W-50 synthetic is no longer rated JASO MA, if it still met the spec it would still have the rating; it doesn't so it doesn't. I'm sure it works fine for some people, it didn't work out too well for me. I just ordered a liter jug of LiquiMoly Racing 4T 10W-60 from Amazon, I won't get to try it in the Wide Glide until next spring but as well as the LiquiMoly 10W-60 full synthetic works in my 103 it's worth it to try the 4T in the primary. Spendy but it's JASO MA2 rated

 

Tincup, I say that because we all know that Harley says you can use their 20w50 in the primary. They also say to use their 20w50 oil in the 500 and 750 Street models as well as the V-Rod. (Universal Japanese design, one cavity, all 3 components).
We all know that in all these applications the motorcycles have a wet clutch.

I really don't think the motor company would use a friction modified additive package in their oil that would cause the clutches to slip. The potential problem would be astronomical.

I also know that HD says you can run a diesel oil in your Big Twin.

No where on the Harley Oil bottle does it say JASO, or does it have any diesel oil ratings. It must meet these specs or why would Harley recommend their oil for Big Twin primary use as well as common cavity wet clutch use.

I also think that if you ran an elemental analysis on Harley's oil the additive package would meet an modern day API gasoline (SJ, SL or higher), but they don't put that on the label either.

The only thing on the HD oil label is the Motor Company rating of HD360.

Mobil cannot put HD360 on their label ,(no oil company who makes oil for Harleys can) because the HD360 test is a Harley only test, protocol is not available to anyone.

Why would Mobile want to put a rating on their bottle that has no meaning in the Harley world?

I will stand by my original statement, just because it doesn't say it is JASO rated, doesn't mean it isn't

My .02 cents

Ken