Speeding Big Twin:

This is INCREDIBLY helpful. Thanks, man!

 

Speeding Big Twin:

I'm not quite understanding why the bushing (33638-52) isn't welded to the bracket (33630-52). I bought a shovelhead assembly (mainly because my shifter pedal is toast and someone welded it to the spline (33660-54)) - that is similar, but has a different bracket, and the bushing is welded to it. I plan on using the pedal, and spline with the bracket I have.

If it's not welded to it, it will just spin with the pedal and the grease and zirc fitting are useless.

I'm thinking about welding it to the bracket, but wondering if it's a bad idea for some reason.

 

in some cases your dealing with 60 year old parts - the bushing is a service item and normally is pressed into the bracket then the shift lever and bushing wear not the bracket

 

Cary, as John said, the bushing is a service item. If fitted properly it shouldn’t move under operating conditions. It was used for 52–69 and then bushing #33638-70 was for 70-later. H-D used at least five brackets for Pans and Shovels: #33630-52 for 52–64; #33630-65 for 65–69; #33630-70 for 70-later FL/FLH; #33630-71 for 71–73 Super Glides; and #33683-80 for 80-later FXWGs.
If the pedal was welded on then it was probably because it kept moving. For 52–53, #33660-52 was used in conjunction with pedal #34606-52 but apparently the splines were later thought to be a bad idea, partly due to the rider hitting the pedal too hard if having trouble getting the bike in gear and damage could result. For 54 models, #33660-54 appeared with pedal #34606-54 and the pieces weren’t splined, the idea being that if the rider hit the pedal too hard then it would slip around because there were no splines to stop it and therefore no damage would be caused.




The change to smooth pieces is mentioned in The Enthusiast for September 1953 which was the announcement issue for 1954 models. From page 22: ‘Serrations on the gear shifter lever shaft and in the end of the gear shifter foot lever have been eliminated and a smooth fit substituted. The end of the gear shifter foot lever has been strengthened and a tight fit is accomplished with a 5/16” bolt and nut. Should undue force be applied to the foot lever, slight slippage affords protection to the shifting mechanism.’


I think the smooth setup remained in place through at least 64 but at some later stage they went back to splined pieces.
Eric

 

I had it welded on. I got the parts put together and got to take it for a ride Saturday - and again just now. What an awesome feeling! Old bikes feel completely different, especially a rigid frame. Just incredible!

Clutch still needs some adjustment - I have a new cable on the way. Front end is a bit bent - but I think I want a springer on it anyway.

Thanks to everyone here for all the info - I feel like a sponge, just soaking in the info and referring back to it later.
I love this forum...

 

I think I'm going to cancel my gym membership. I'm getting my cardio in every time I kick start this bad boy.
I've done some studying on the starting sequence (half choke, gas on - kick a couple times. Ignition on, crank throttle, no choke and kick), and it seems to work when it's cold, but after it's warmed up - completely stubborn.

Took a short ride (bike isn't legal yet) - now it won't start again, and I'm sweating my *** off trying......glad nobody's watching yet.

Any ideas? Am I flooding it?

(Linkert carb M74B)

 

turn the advance too half the travel from full retard to total advance - open throttle 1/2 way two full kicks FULL choke - open choke all the way and one click down in the choke this is cold kick it with the throttle just like you have it

note you can keep adding advance till the kicker is dancing under your foot then retard it just a bit that is the sweet spot --

hot starting is an intake leak would be my guess

put the advance in the sweet spot or a little more advance - and kick it with the throttle wide open -

you need to mix it up and see what your motor wants both hot and cold = no two are exactly the same you need to find its spots - kicking it with out trying it differently is a waste of time and effort

 

Thanks, John. I did finally get it to kick over hot - by just turning the key and kicking. No throttle, just key and kick. We'll see if that stays consistent.

I also learned a bit about the reserve tank the other day on a long desolate road, when I lost all power. Right tank was empty, both gas valves were on. I guess you have to turn off the gas to the right tank for the left (reserve) to start running?
I did that and made it home - I'm pretty sure Dad was laughing at me on the side of the road figuring it out.
:P