Electrical
#1
Electrical
Hey fellas, riding home last night, I was about 10-15 miles into a 30mile ride when I realized my lights were dimming. By the time I got home I had basically no headlights, and no tail lights. Even the speedometer console was too dim to read. Bike has a new battery; what should I check next? Is generally the first area to check the regulator, or the generator?
JC-
JC-
Last edited by 65_glide; 05-19-2011 at 08:15 AM.
#3
Thanks....I tested the bike while running, and it's putting out between 11.5-11.8 volts regardless of the rpm's. I had the battery disconnected several times, so I re-polarized the bike and it didn't make a difference. So, is there a way to isolate the generator and test it? Same goes for testing the regulator.
JC-
JC-
#4
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Posts: 7,272
Received 3,212 Likes
on
1,481 Posts
Testing Generator Output...
Remove wire from F terminal of generator and connect a short jumper wire from generator F terminal to ground on m/c.
Remove wire(s) from generator A terminal and connect a positive lead of0-30 amp ammeter.
Start engine and run at speed of 2000 rpm. Then momentarily connect negative lead of ammeter to m/c battery positive terminal.
If ammeter reads 15 amps or more for 6 volt/10 amps or more for 12 generator, generator is not at fault and problem is either wiring or regulator.
Testing regulator is a very long section in the manual. If you do not have one, it would be a worthwhile expense at this point in time.
Remove wire from F terminal of generator and connect a short jumper wire from generator F terminal to ground on m/c.
Remove wire(s) from generator A terminal and connect a positive lead of0-30 amp ammeter.
Start engine and run at speed of 2000 rpm. Then momentarily connect negative lead of ammeter to m/c battery positive terminal.
If ammeter reads 15 amps or more for 6 volt/10 amps or more for 12 generator, generator is not at fault and problem is either wiring or regulator.
Testing regulator is a very long section in the manual. If you do not have one, it would be a worthwhile expense at this point in time.
#5
Are we talking about a '65 Glide?
I'd say your stator is breaking down and not generating enough voltage to charge / recharge the battery.
BUT... Check all your connections, especially on the battery, then the battery to to either the circuit breaker (+), or the frame ground. Be certain they are rust / oxidation free, and tighten down very securely.
It seems more have issues with these connections than anything else.
There is a voltage test you do on the stator to check the A/C voltage it's generating, I believe it's 40 or 50 volts. This would be before the voltage regulator.
At a fast idle you should have have 13.5 volts D/C or higher.
Often the stator will create a burnt transformer smell in the primary. If you can smell it, even a few drops of the fluid will stink, then it's clear cut your stator needs replacing.
There are upgraded kits to convert a low output older bike to a higher output which is more like stock on 80's models. Mine was originally 22 amp. I went with a kit that gave me the new stator, rotor and regulator at 32 amps. About $250 complete (primary gasket needed).
Let's hope it's just connections!
I'd say your stator is breaking down and not generating enough voltage to charge / recharge the battery.
BUT... Check all your connections, especially on the battery, then the battery to to either the circuit breaker (+), or the frame ground. Be certain they are rust / oxidation free, and tighten down very securely.
It seems more have issues with these connections than anything else.
There is a voltage test you do on the stator to check the A/C voltage it's generating, I believe it's 40 or 50 volts. This would be before the voltage regulator.
At a fast idle you should have have 13.5 volts D/C or higher.
Often the stator will create a burnt transformer smell in the primary. If you can smell it, even a few drops of the fluid will stink, then it's clear cut your stator needs replacing.
There are upgraded kits to convert a low output older bike to a higher output which is more like stock on 80's models. Mine was originally 22 amp. I went with a kit that gave me the new stator, rotor and regulator at 32 amps. About $250 complete (primary gasket needed).
Let's hope it's just connections!
#6
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Santa Klaus County, Cali
Posts: 7,272
Received 3,212 Likes
on
1,481 Posts
#7
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Kayakguy
Electrical/Lighting/Alarm
9
06-30-2018 08:06 PM