John Deer Blitz Black
#11
#12
Good to know. I have a pearl black SG and was thinking of either repainting it this matte black, or painting some of the chrome pieces.
How resistant is it to chipping would you say, especially that you did a rattle can job? I'm mainly concerned with the front batwing fairing and front fender getting hit with rocks and other debris.
Other than sanding, did you have to do any special prep? Also, did you put any protective top coat over the Blitz Black, or is that you top coat?
How resistant is it to chipping would you say, especially that you did a rattle can job? I'm mainly concerned with the front batwing fairing and front fender getting hit with rocks and other debris.
Other than sanding, did you have to do any special prep? Also, did you put any protective top coat over the Blitz Black, or is that you top coat?
I took my tank right down to bare metal and used a good metal primer. I didn't use any sort of clear or protective coat on top. Just three coats of Blitz Black.
The stuff is very chip resistant, they use it on tractors lol.
If you're doing the whole bike I'd suggest buying quarts and using a gun, that way you can cut it with 15-20% JD hardener and you'd never have to worry about chips. Your cure time will be greatly reduced, too.
#13
I am a believer in JD Blitz Black. I recently picked up a 2009 Crossbones and the previous owner had a leather tool pouch on the front forks that sat on top of the fender
When I took it off the fender brace ad fender had a serious rub in it.
I decided to sand it out and paint it using the Blitz black. For a different look I masked off the sides of the brace on the same arc as the fender as only the top part over the fender was rubbed
The paint match is as close as you could ever get. The brace top is repainted but the fender was only painted in the portion showing through the hole in the brace
When I took it off the fender brace ad fender had a serious rub in it.
I decided to sand it out and paint it using the Blitz black. For a different look I masked off the sides of the brace on the same arc as the fender as only the top part over the fender was rubbed
The paint match is as close as you could ever get. The brace top is repainted but the fender was only painted in the portion showing through the hole in the brace
#15
#16
#17
I have painted a bunch of plastics and I have always used a Plastic Primer. Almost all the different manufacturers have their own version of a primer that is made specifically for bonding to plastic parts
I usually would wipe the part with degreaser than scuff with fine scotch pad or 600 or 800 grit. After a quick wipe with a tack rag I would blast it with a couple of coats of plastic primer.
Let it dry over night than scuff the primer with 800 grit than clean with final wipe, tack it and paint
I usually would wipe the part with degreaser than scuff with fine scotch pad or 600 or 800 grit. After a quick wipe with a tack rag I would blast it with a couple of coats of plastic primer.
Let it dry over night than scuff the primer with 800 grit than clean with final wipe, tack it and paint
#19
Planning to shoot my Evo Fat Boy in Blitz Black with hardener next month using a gun.
You guys who've done this before, do you use a clear coat after or just leave it? If the paint can handle gas spills as is, I'd rather not clear coat and make the paint shiny.
If I don't use clear coat, I guess I'll probably go either with vinyl decals or buy tank badges to replace the original Fat Boy decals.
You guys who've done this before, do you use a clear coat after or just leave it? If the paint can handle gas spills as is, I'd rather not clear coat and make the paint shiny.
If I don't use clear coat, I guess I'll probably go either with vinyl decals or buy tank badges to replace the original Fat Boy decals.
Last edited by rainsong; 12-23-2016 at 12:07 AM.
#20