Im blacking out some various chrome parts on my Deuce. Dash, billet headlight and oil tank...so, I had the dash powdercoated first as a test but its not that smooth and the color isnt the correct black. Im going to paint base clear Vivid black over the powder coat.
My question is prep. I searched the forum but couldnt find an answer. Can I just do a wet sand (1500?) and paint the base right on the powdercoat or do I need to do a coat of non etching primer first?
I hear some quality painters use powdercoating as a base and blow the paint right over the powder but wasnt certain?

Any imput would be appreciated.

Cheers

 

sounds like a poor coating job to be honest... this is how our dash's look

problem wiht paint over powder is powder is a much harder finish than paint so adhesion could be an issue. to be honest i have never shot a full clear over powder parts. Never had the need. More than happy to help if we can

 

Thanks for the reply Joe, I kinda figured it was a bulk run powdercoat job. Nice dude though, he might just be more of an industrial mind set for finish I guess.. One side is better than the other as for as shine. The orange peel is here and there..
Your stuff looks sweet. I'm just over the border in Ontario. I do have another option up here but If its more of the same industrial style finish, I do have a state side shipping address we can work with. Ill deffinately keep you in mind.
I read on here somewhere that an airbrush artist has all his tins powdercoated first as the base before he lays his work down on the piece. I cant find the thread to pm him to confirm.
Unless someone chimes in other wise in the next few days I think I'm going to wet sand, lay my base color and then a 2K clear. If it turns to ****, Ill just strip it and send it out for new powdercoating.
I bought this dash online as a spare to have a run at this so I do still have the original chrome dash.

 

you will never get a show quality finish from an industrial coater, they are simply not set up for that. they are set up to just get color on it. We actually do a TON of work for a local industrial coater, and send him industrial level jobs when they come our way. It is not bad what they do, just a completely different set up we handle and shoot each piece 1 by one from bolts to rims, where they hang on a huge rack and "hang and bang" so you finish will never be uniform and most of the time is very thick, plus then you have your small stuff being cured in with huge parts that take way longer to reach part metal temp so your parts are in there over curing while that item gets to temp to get a full cure.

most do not blast at all. We ship to Canada, sent 4 packages out today actually

before you can clear it you have to knock down that peel, chances are the valley is going to be way to deep and you will have wave finish when you clear it, clear may actually make it look worse. if you do knock it down bring it up to around 1500 grit before you clear

 

Makes total sense. The first time he coated it it was hazy which Im guessing is just like you said, small part in a big parts run and was over cooked. Even had bubble wrap marks in the powder from the packing I brought the uncoated part in..
My plan is to for sure water sand the powder down to lose the peel and then the Vivid black base and then the 2K. Possible water sand in between the clear coats..Ill have to see, Ive always had good results doing so.
I have the anniversary 03 with the 2 tone (Sterling over Vivid black) on the tank so the poor color and coverage on the dash really stands out sitting on top of the Harley paint.

 

So, anyone know if a non etching primer is required?

Thanks