Good evening all,

I will give you the short version of what is going on with my 2012 Road Glide.

I was having some clutch slippage when riding 2-up so figured I would change out the clutch pack and also put in a stiffer diaphragm spring at the same time. Everything was going smooth as butter until I snapped one of the 6 bolts that holds the diaphragm in place. I know, I know, they are only supposed to be tightened to 75-100 INCH pounds and I forgot my own strength when snugging them down.

Needless to say, I can't get the remnants of the old bolt out of the clutch hub and figure it might be safer to replace it just in case.

How hard is it to replace the clutch hub and do you think it is something a regular wrenching guy can tackle or should I trailer it to Harley and pay the piper?

Thanks

 

You will need a hydraulic press, I got one from Harbor Freight for about $130, and a new clutch bearing, and a Service Manual. Not too hard, just take your time and read the procedures a couple times in the SM.

Here is a Thread with a lot of pics and tips on the process:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...rade-time.html

 

Do you have the other tools to remove the compensator, clutch hub nut and basket? A big foot pound torque wrench and a service manual?

If you do then you might as well have a go. Nothing makes a man more careful than having to clean up his own mess.

 

Thanks for the tips and the link was perfect. It looks like this might be a little outside my comfort zone because I don't have a press and really don't have a need for one in the future.

Do you think I could take the entire basket off and take it to a local shop with the necessary hardware and have them take it out and put the new one in? I bet it would be cheaper in the long run for me than buying the press and then mucking things up.

 

You didn`t forget your own strength, you neglected to use a torque wrench...

Don`t trailer the bike.

Remove the clutch hub/outer shell (be sure to follow the service manual and use the proper tools) and take it to a reputable shop.

Make sure the inner clutch hub bearing is replaced, it cannot be reused.

The inner clutch hub will cost about $150, the bearing goes for about $90 (dealer prices).

 

That is what I was thinking of doing also.

And, I did have a torque wrench. It was sitting right next to me on the ground. Like a knucklehead I thought the manual said 70-100 FOOT lbs so I was "snugging" those little suckers down before using it. (sigh)

The lesson I learned was to read the manual, then read it again, then read it one more time to make sure I understand exactly what specs everything is before I do anything stupid. When I saw 70-100 I thought that was way too tight for those little bolts but I figured they must have been made out of kryptonite or something, lol.

Live and learn I guess.

 

Seeing as how I am going to be taking the entire clutch basket off for the repair does anyone have any suggestions on possible upgrades to the clutch? I am thinking of doing cams in the fall (by a reputable mechanic) so will be adding some horsepower to the bike.

Thanks again for everyone's help!! It truly is appreciated.

 

I wouldn't change anything in the stock clutch for the cam upgrade until I rode it after the work was done. If it didn't slip in 5th or 6th gear I'd leave it alone, if it did I'd put in a SE clutch spring. No need to make the lever harder to pull if the clutch ain't slipping.

All you gotta do is pull off those 10mm bolts replace the diaphragm spring then torque the bolts to 70-100 foot pounds

I know, I know....I'm a dick!

 

100 foot lbs torque would be for a bolt with a diameter of about 5/8 inch...

 

To me the SE clutch spring is not a bad pull, but the Barnett one is stiff - I would not be hesitant to swap in the SE spring while you have the primary open, as long as you have decent hand strength.